We returned from about nine days of self-supported paddling on that wonderful southern Costa Rica pacific coast in January. The water was warm (80-85 F), the snorkeling really quite interesting (spectacular is reserved for Fiji, Tonga and a few other places). People were easy to delal with, bus transportation was cheap, reliable and got us exactly where we wanted to go, almost on time. Beach camping was abundant and hassle-free (but check the Lonely Planet guide's warnings).
Secrets to our success ... We paddled a double Feathercraft (with the new, welded skin!) so had a perfect craft without dealing with the zillions of little open-top plastic kayaks that resorts provide. We hit the highest and lowest tides of the year for a 9' tidal range and really had to deal with surf at river mouths and being careful of camp locations. We hit, very luckily, NO BIG SURF which was a great relief and can not be counted on. In fact, much of our preliminary "local information" research was done through Surfer Magazine's web site and publications because MANY of the beaches along our route have perfect surf breaks for those who like overhead or double overhead LONG breaks.
We paddled up about six rivers ( DO NOT MISS THESE!) and, because we're skilled at handling a double in ocean surf, had no problem. But one NEEDS to be able to handle surf for this coast. A river might be 20' wide at low tide, requiring a mile walk with the boat on a line, and at high tide it might have a mouth over a mile wide with active surf built up by the outflow of the river. Fun for us. In fact, we had one really long surf ride in the Feathercraft double - even though we have done months of paddling these kayaks all over the world, we never really caught a wave so perfectly as one entering a river in Costa Rica.
I would suggest a perfect two week trip: skip the coast between Quepos and the Rio Sierpe (not at all as interesting as the Osa Peninsula), paddle down the Rio Sierpe from Palmer Sur and then down the coast and around to Gulfito. Take busses at both ends of the trip. Stop at Corcovado Ntl/ Park and spend several days hiking (we saw a Giant Anteater, 3 Toed Sloth, Howler and Spider monkeys, white faced Capuchins, toucans, Scarlet McCaws and 36 readily identifiable bird species, green Iguana, Jesus Christ Lizard which actually did walk on water, crocodiles - yes, you get to paddle with them if you're lucky - Coatimundis, Agoutis, and a half dozen sea turtles of two (probably) species). Sorry to say, we saw few insects (it was the "dry season" and not a single snake. We enjoyed sharing a camp at the National Park with a team of California and Costa Rica invertibrate researchers who were collecting the most beautiful little nudibrancs you ever say from the tide pools and reefs.
A very doable trip with some skill and the right equipment.
Cheers, Joanne
Southwind Kayak Center
http://www.southwindkayaks.com
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