[Paddlewise] FW: Wind forces on roof mo

>>
On Apr 22, 10:24am, Bill Leonhardt wrote:
>I have two older boats, polyethylene, with bow and stern grab loops   which
>is where I tie the bow and stern to the vehicle.  These grab loops are   held
>by a plastic clamp block screwed into the boat.  Since I have had   occasion
>to remove these screws, I am now aware that the screw threads in the   boat
>appear to be merely nuts that were inserted (probably hot) into the   deck.
>
>What I'm trying to illustrate is that some grab loop attachments are not
>all that strongly attached to the boat and, even though you are tying
>these, say to your bumper, you may not be securing the boat as well as   you
>think.


Hi all,

What I do is to loop my rope around the kayak behind (for the bow, or   ahead
for the stern) of the hatch.  This doesn't rely on the strength of the   grab
loops or their attachment to the hull.  This also doesn't distort my   kayak as
much (it is plastic) since I don't have the same leverage as I would out   at
the ends.

I suppose this doesn't help if you don't have hatches to hold the loop of
rope from sliding toward the end of the boat.

 --
henry                              o_,                         _at_
>>

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I use polyester (Dacron) bow and stern tie-down lines that have a
permanent loop tied in the middle to minimize shifting of the kayaks. I
push this loop through the toggle loop from behind, then around the   toggle
to serve as a backup should the loop come off the kayak. Then I slide the   
loop over the end of the kayak and use trucker's hitches to snug the ends   
of the line to carabiners under the bumper. Thus, the strain is on the
deck of the kayak instead of the toggle loop. If the loop should slide   off
the end of the kayak, which hasn't happened yet, it is still fastened to
the toggle.

This technique obviously works best with kayaks that have upswept ends.

Unlike nylon, polyester lines stay taut in the rain.

Chuck Holst  
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