I researched the subject of kayaking and lightening about five or six years ago for an article in my newsletter. I read all I could and talked to people at NOAA and the Coast Guard among other sources. Just some general conclusions: Overall, lightening is so unpredictable in its behavior that there really are no guarantees no matter what you do. Case examples abound of rowboats alongside sailing vessels on a dock or beach and the rowboat getting hit!!! So much for hard and fast rules. However, there are certainly somethings to do. 1. Do get to shore if you can. 2. When paddling, at any cost, avoid being in the high strike zone that is roughly about 50 feet or so on either side of the water line, on shore and in the water. If you don't think you can clear that area while paddling, you would be better off rafting up with others or crawling down in your boat and hope you can stay upright. The more stable the boat is on its own without your needing to brace, the easier it is to do this. Doubles are great for this. 3. Once on shore and cleared of this area and not under lone trees, assume the position described elsewhere. It basically resembles taking a shit only get lower and keep your head down. Keep your PFD under you as it will act as some minimal amount of insulation. This is similar to the principle used by mountaineers who squat on their coiled up climbing ropes. Whatever you do don't form any arcing bridges such as what a football player's stance with several points of contact with the ground. You don't want to act like a battery polarization. 4. I can't be absolutely certain of this, but being in a folding kayak with rubber under you may offer an extra level of protection. It is similar to the principal of being in a car. The rubber tires insulate you from the ground even though you are in a metal cage!!! But you have to keep low. If you manage to drag your kayak far enough out of that high-strike zone at the water's edge, you may want to be in your boat especially if of non-conductive material. Rubber is obviously best but fiberglass and plastic are okay. But get in low, drop your head below the plain of the the cockpit rim. Again, these points are not fool-proof. Lightning is fickle. These pointers just help a bit, lessen your exposure. But there is no such thing as absolute safety re. lightning. Another point, for those who have a mast on their kayaks for sailing. There is such a thing as a zone of protection that is created by the mast. It is approximately, if I recall correctly from the article, a zone whose radius is half the height of the mast. So a 12 foot mast would create a 6 ft radius circle around the base of the mast (it may be the full 12 ft. I can't remember). But only if the mast is grounded. The suggestion for a boat like a kayak or rowboat with a mast is to have a thick copper wire running from where the mast partner is to overhang into the water enough inches to remain in the water while heeled over. Again, all this talk of grounding masts doesn't work at times. Some sail boats have had the bottom of their hulls blown out at the mast base when struck by lightning. ralph diaz -- ----------------------------------------------------------------------- Ralph Diaz . . . Folding Kayaker newsletter PO Box 0754, New York, NY 10024 Tel: 212-724-5069; E-mail: rdiaz_at_ix.netcom.com "Where's your sea kayak?"----"It's in the bag." ----------------------------------------------------------------------- *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List Submissions: paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net Subscriptions: paddlewise-request_at_lists.intelenet.net Website: http://www.gasp-seakayak.net/paddlewise/ ***************************************************************************Received on Thu May 07 1998 - 10:06:26 PDT
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