For the past couple of years, I commuted to work by kayak. During the winter months, I paddled home in the dark. Though not crossing any designated traffic lanes, I was passing among tugs and barges, fishing boats, yachts, and two local foot-passenger ferries, so being visible was a major concern. I've tried those battery powered red/green split lens and upright flashlights on a pole sold for inflatable dingys. They were unsatisfactory on several counts. I had to build a fairly elaborate platform to hold the light brackets. I used a short mast for the rear light to keep the centre of gravity low (two D cells are quite heavy and exert a lot of leverage at the end of a pole). The front light was mounted directly at deck level so as not to interfere with paddling. Mounting lights low decreases the distance they can be seen. Nor are these dingy lights truly waterproof, meaning that even if you don't capsize or have water sweep the deck, the salt air corrodes the batteries. They use a very old technology for the bulbs, and as result are not very bright and consume batteries at a fearful rate. In addition to the difficulty of changing batteries at sea, an adequate supply of D cells is heavy, bulky and expensive. The solution I've hit on was made possible by the current generation of high-tech waterproof lights. The first unit I used was by Princeton Tec and is called the SportFlare. It’s a 2AA cell flashlight with a cone of translucent plastic in front of the lens. Although Princeton Tec makes these cones in white, the Canadian distributor does not carry them so I used the yellowy-green cone that is available. Avoid using a green or red light as they might be mistaken for port or starboard lamps. I’ve encountered Coast Guard patrol boats at night, and the crew have always smiled and nodded as they passed me, apparently delighted (sorry) that I had any lamp at all. As a bonus, when I'm touring, the flare cone light doubles as a “lantern” in my tent. I later replaced this with the ACR "C" light, which uses a single AA battery, and which has moulded plastic dome lens which beams the light out in a 360º ring around the unit, rather than having most of it "spill" upwards. This light is pure white. As a bonus, each time I take a stroke, I can see a line of light on my paddle blades to confirm the light is burning brightly. The ACR "C" light is SOLAS approved and was originally made for the front of PFDs. I've duct taped a short length of flexible marine water hose to one end of a piece of 1/2” wooden doweling. The body of the flashlight press-fits securely into the hose, with the cone or dome pointing upward. You could also use heavy elastic bands to attach the light to the pole. Sew a snug vertical sleeve to the outside back of your PFD (naturally, you never paddle without your PFD on, do you?), similar to tent pole sleeves and closed at the bottom. (Strictly technically speaking, I suppose the sleeve modification invalidates USCG or Canadian DOT approval on PFDs, but my experience with front-line Canadian Coasties has been that they are practical people, more interested in real-world safety than nailing you on the letter of the law. Commercial operators should not modify approved PFDs for liability reasons, but then commercial operators should probably think twice about night-paddling with clients anyway.) Slide the doweling into the sleeve and the light rides about a foot above your head, visible 360 degrees, does not interfere with your night vision, is too lightweight to exert destabilizing torque, and in any case stays upright as you balance in the boat. (I carry a mini-strobe as back-up, but have never had to use it). The light is in use 20-25 minutes at time 3 to 4 times a week, and a battery lasts several weeks. Theoretical, as yet untested advantages of this system: If I did wet-exit at night the light would be above my head, making me visible to traffic and providing illumination for my self-rescue efforts. Should the whole assembly slip from its sleeve, the wood in the doweling will provide enough buoyancy to prevent the light from sinking (I've taped some pipe insulation foam to the upper part of the doweling to ensure this). Other companies make after-market light cones intended to fit 2AAA and 2AA flashlights such as the Mini-Mags. Though the Mini-Mags are sealed with O rings, I'm not sure how their metal bodies would stand up to a salt air environment. In any case, they’re heavier than plastic-bodied lights, affecting balance and buoyancy. If you don't do enough night paddling to justify a special set-up, you could pop a small flashlight into the bottom of a translucent (not transparent) plastic bottle, and tie it on your rear deck. Wear a headlamp to cover the field of view blocked by your body, bearing in mind that because the headlamp beam is focused, you'll need to “aim” it at traffic for them to see it from any distance. If you were going to "aim" a beam at someone, you'd want to be sure that they were far enough away and/or the beam was diffused enough not to blind them (or "embarrass" them, as the official term goes - presumably because it's embarrassing to run smack into the shore and/or other boaters after your night vision has been nuked by some idiot with a headlamp.) Philip Torrens "The opinions expressed in this posting are not necessarily those of my employer, or indeed, of any sentient being." **************************************** Mountain Equipment Co-op 1655 West 3rd Avenue, Vancouver, BC, Canada V6J 1K1 Tel: 640-732-1989 Fax: 604-731-6483 email: pid_at_mec.ca Visit our website at: http://www.mec.ca ***************************************** *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List Submissions: paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net Subscriptions: paddlewise-request_at_lists.intelenet.net Website: http://www.gasp-seakayak.net/paddlewise/ ***************************************************************************Received on Thu Jul 02 1998 - 11:47:47 PDT
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