[Paddlewise] Fiji trip report: Yasawas

Matt Hudson and I spent six weeks with Feathercrafts in Fiji in March and
April this year. Some observations for those who are contemplating a kayak
trip there:
 
The Yasawas are very attractive because you could theoretically paddle there
from the airport in Nandi. We found it more practical to take a taxi to
Lautoka ($25.00 Fijian) and attend to fuel (Bluet cannisters are not available
in Fiji-- not even in Suva), charts and flares (expensive in Fiji!) as well as
a couple of kilograms of yaqona root (kava) from the central market. Kava is
the perfect gift to bear in the Yasawas, because it is not grown there, but
highly coveted. The root is preferred to powder. Kava from Vanuatu is
considered the best and it was available in the market. One-third to one-half
kilogram is the customary allotment for sevusevu. It should be wrapped-up when
presented. 

Visiting permits for the Yasawas are obtained from the District Commissioner's
Office (for Social Affairs) across the street from the Cathay Hotel (NOT at
the port). There is divided opinion about whether kayakers need to have these
(we were never asked to produce ours), but if you're in Lautoka, you might as
well get one. Pickmere Plans of the Yasawas are perfect for kayakers and have
been reproduced by the Fiji Hydrographic Office in Suva. We found them at the
general store at Vunda Point marina-- a $10.00 taxi ride from Lautoka.  Tide
tables are available in an almanac sold at the Harbormaster's office at
Queens' Wharf (left side of road, before gate, second floor).

The prevailing winds in the Yasawas come from the east and east-by-southeast
and can be formidable (20 to 25 knots).  Since the island chain runs north-
south, crossing between islands can be challenging, particularly between Waya
and the Naviti group. We had to lay over three and one-half days on Waya and
then rush across in the late afternoon as the wind subsided briefly. You will
want to paddle up the west side of the Yasawas to reduce the wind. We were
cautioned by local yachstmen to avoid the northern point of the islands
(Yawini Island), because winds and currents can be extremely hazardous there. 

Just about every inch of Fiji is owned by somebody, and it is virtually
impossible to throw a tent up without having that somebody find out about it
in short order.  In the Yasawas, hospitality is the rule. All you have to do
is paddle up and present yourself. Two problems: you see a beautiful, deserted
beach, but (1) don't know who to ask for permission, or (2) go to the nearest
village to ask and are obliged to stay in the village, eat the villagers'
scarce food (when the winds are up, about all they have is breadfruit), and
sleep in their beds. Worth doing once, but not exactly a wilderness
experience, not to mention the feeling of imposition. Yasawans don't seem to
understand why someone would choose to camp on a beach instead of stay in a
village. Our solution: where possible, stay in one of the reasonably-priced
resorts on Waya or some of the other islands (there are a few on Tavewa).
Camping is allowed for a small fee, and there are often diving facilities
(also relatively inexpensive). Villagers are employed at the resorts, so you
have the feeling of contributing.  Also, Sunday is a serious day of rest for
rural Fijians, and taking a beach out of sight of a village (and away from any
inter-village trails) seems to insure that you will be left alone. Sunday
would be a very awkward day to come paddling into a village, besides.

Oh, and there are very expensive resorts as well! Many enforce a minimum stay
of three nights and, so, are not particularly kayaker friendly-- certainly no
camping! The pricey resorts appear to be proliferating. We chose to take a
water-taxi from Lautoka to the southernmost resort on Waya, rather than risk
being unwelcome at luxury resort-infested Vomo Island, but passing by, I did
see deserted beaches.

There's  more to report about kayaking Kandavu (the Fijians call it "little
New Zealand") but I'll save that for another installment...

Doug Montgomery





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