Re: [Paddlewise] Waterproof Binoculars

>Does anyone have a recommendation for waterproof binoculars?

Hi Chris,

Go to: http://www.gwi.net/sing/BVD.html

This is a wonderful site where I learned more about binoculars than had I
gone to the library. There are few sites I can say that about. I found it a
most rewarding experience.

I haven't checked into the site in awhile, so just in case the URL is
changed, what you're looking for is BVD, or "Better View Desired." 

It's unclear to me from your post what you know about binoculars. I'll share
some thoughts. Probably you know a good bit of it already, but maybe others
might benefit.

Most, if not all, waterproof binocs are "nitrogen purged." This is somewhat
ambiguous. What the lens barrels are actually "purged" of is normal air.
They are then FILLED with nitrogen and sealed with O-rings. Nitrogen is an
inert gas that cannot hold moisture, and does not react to temperature
changes, thus maintaining an even pressure.  (In motorsports, Indy cars, for
example, use nitrogen in their tires, rather than air. That way, hot or cold
tire temperatures do not affect the inflation pressure because the nitrogen
doesn't expand when the tires are running at their normal 200+ degrees
operating temperature. Tire pressure greatly affects handling. Neat, huh?)
Back to your binocs. Air holds moisture. Sudden temperature changes like
bringing cold binocs into a warm room can cause condensation to form on the
lens surfaces just like on a cold drink glass in hot, humid weather. If this
should happen on the INSIDE surface of your lenses, you've got a serious
problem. Water spots can form on the inside of the lenses, messing up your
clear, sharp view. Having them dissassembled and cleaned would be
prohibitively expensive. Filling the lens barrels with nitrogen solves this
problem. The O-ring seals, etc. provide the waterproofness keeping the
nitrogen in, and everything else out. And they'll never fog up on the INSIDE
of the lens. External fogging is, of course, unavoidable at times, but
presents no problem apart from the nuisance. Try not to breathe on the
lenses in cold temps.

You allude to the quality of Swarovskis and their superiority over, I
assume, less expensive glass. The most important point to understand is
that, basically, in the world of optics there is no magic, no miracles, and
competition prevails. You get what you pay for. There are some bargains, but
there are NO $200 binocs equalling $1000 binocs. Or, anything even close.
Precision optics and housings are expensive.

But, do you NEED that level of quality? Only you can say. I would never
disparage someone's purchase of a $50 pair of binoculars.

Is there life after Swarovski? You betcha! Try a pair of Leica Ultra 8x32
binocs. Probably can be had for $845 most anywhere, and about $100 less N.Y.
photo house mail order. But, of course, they're all in the same general
price range up there.

The Swarovskis weren't yours? And you cannot justify their cost?

We purchased a pair of Nikon's new compact 8x25 Mountaineer II ATBs. These
must be one of the best bargains around. Nitrogen-filled and O-ring sealed
lens barrels, guaranteed waterproof for the lifetime of (the owner or the
binocs?). Amazingly good optics, with a crisp, high-contrast view. They
employ a rugged, all-metal, rubber armored body. Their close focus is about
9 feet (VERY important to nature and bird watchers. Don't neglect to check
this.). All for $169 from Eagle Optics in Madison, WI. They do a lot of
(mostly?) mail order. Good reputation I've heard. We liked them on a
personal visit. I don't have their 800 number handy at the moment. But,
they're on the web, too. These are also available in a 10x25. Our local
camera stores ONLY carry the 10 power models because that's all most
consumers want, apparently.

Talk to dealers. If you can get them to level with you, you'll probably find
the majority acknowledge Nikon offers the best value for the money at most
consumer price points. But, lately there's been a lot of activity from other
manufacturers, so shop around and see. And read...

I recommend the 8x binocs over the 10x, and so, I think, will the majority
of experts. Handholding anything over 8x is difficult and tiring. A steady,
sharp 8x image will beat a jiggly 10x image every time. But, the average
consumer hasn't learned this and wants the highest power he can get. (But,
let's not start a war here. Each to his own.)

Standard marine binocs are what? 7x50, right? That's used on a big ship.
Don't buy more than 8x binocs for use in a kayak. I don't believe there are
any waterproof, affordable, image-stabilization binocs available.

A very interesting issue is the question of whether to get 8x32, 8x42, or
8x50 binocs. In the past most of us, I suspect, have believed that a
usefully superior image would be delivered by the glass with the bigger
objective lenses. Check out the article addressing this on BVD.
Increasingly, the consensus appears to be that the 8x30/32 size is the
optimum balance of brightness and compactness for most daylight uses.

The high-end binocs will last a lifetime and beyond. The difference in
perfomance is, as you've suggested, discernible. I've never heard anyone
complain that they'd wasted their money on quality binoculars. So, buy the
best you can.

Hope this has been helpful, Chris.

Regards,

-Bruce


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