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From: Sisler, Clyde <Clyde.Sisler_at_wang.com>
subject: [Paddlewise] Thomaston, ME Trip Report # 1
Date: Tue, 4 Aug 1998 12:03:35 -0400
 Thomaston, ME or Oops!

I left work Thursday afternoon for the 4+ hour drive to South Thomaston,
seven miles below Rockland and the lower part of Penobscot Bay on the
central coast of Maine.  The Muscle (not Mussel) Ridge Islands are a
group of a dozen or so islands a mile or so off the coast.  They're
named for the mussels in the area but on all my charts and information
it's spelled 'muscle', I dunno why.  I don't know why they're called
either one since I didn't see many mussels at all, certainly not like in
Casco Bay in Portland.

10% of the seals on the Maine coast are supposed to be born here and
there was supposed to be a pair of nesting eagles on one of the islands
up towards Rockland.  The islands are also noted for their pink granite
and a lot of it was quarried for construction in Boston and New York
City earlier in the century.

Friday I pulled down to the beach at the camp ground, loaded up and
headed 2 miles out for Otter Island on one end of the chain.  I had
plotted a course through the islands at home.  If I didn't stick to the
course, I wanted to at least navigate or take bearings from the main
points and capture them in the GPS for later use.

The islands are all close together and only a few miles long.  All I
intended to do was just take my time and poke around each of the
islands, relax and see whatever there was to see.  I wasn't expecting
any weather or seas for the weekend.

Coming around Otter Island, I saw a couple of ospreys soaring around.
As I watched them, I spotted another large bird, with a dark body and
light head, perched on the top of a tree.  By the time I got the
binoculars dug out of the camera bag to confirm it was an eagle, it was
gone :-(.

I went around a couple of small islands and was off of another small one
near High Island when I saw a bunch of multi-colored rocks on a series
of ledges about 120 yards away.  Looking through the binoculars gave a
good view of the sky and the water with brief flashes of the rocks and
ledges as I bobbed up and down on the small swells.  Since this area is
noted for its seal population and I had seen similar rocks dive into the
water before as I got closer and I think I saw the some of these rocks
move in my quick glimpses, I kinda assumed they might be seals.  But
sitting in a kayak on even pretty calm waters wasn't going to allow me
to watch them through the binoculars.  What to do, what to do?

The island I'm near has no inviting beaches on which to land.  It's
nearing low tide and the seas are surging against fairly steep granite
shores with a few ledges forming a kind of point.  As I watch the surf
coming in on the ledges I remember drawings in Derek Hutchinson's book
showing someone riding waves in and beaching themselves high and dry on
a rock pinnacle.  Hmmm.

I paddle around and watch the surge and the seaweed covered rocks for a
couple of minutes.  I notice a spot between two rocks that might leave
me up on a ledge.  I thought about that for another minute or two.  I
decided that while it was probably doable, I would be facing the wrong
way and wouldn't be able to see the seals.  Now if I went in
backwards.......

As I do a 180, I see a big black head sticking out of the water watching
me.  There seemed to be an expression on the seal's face saying, 'This
oughta be good - ain't no way I'm gonna miss this'.  Thanx a lot, fella.

I back in a little and then let the surge take me the rest of the way.
I made it up on the ledge (kinda) with just a wobble or two, which I
expertly corrected with a new variation of high braces (arms above head)
against the rocks on either side of me.  At this point I'm almost
halfway on the ledge but when the surge goes out, the bow is pointed
down over the edge about a foot.  Another surge comes in but doesn't
move me nor does the next.  Finally a largeer one comes in and lifts me
the rest of the way up.  Cool!  The seal's gone.  He must have left when
he saw the skill and confidence with which I handled the boat, the seas
and the rocks.  :-).

I got out and straddled the kayak on the foredeck so I could control it
when the surges came in, put my elbows on my knees for support and
counted 70-80 seals sprawled out on the ledges for a siesta.  There were
white ones, speckled ones, tan ones, light gray and dark gray ones.  For
some reason I figured the dark gray ones were males.  They seemed
sleeker and more active while the rest were kinda fat and lazy and just
laying around and I thought they were probably females.  (Don't flame me
ladies, I'm talkin' about seals here, not making generalizations.
Although there was one lady at the Sea Kayak Symposium that went close
to 300 pounds.  I don't know if she was there to try out kayaks or
barges or what.  There were a few big men there too.).

I watched the seals for 15-20 minutes as they lounged around, rolling,
stretching, yawning and generally taking it easy.  There were four
females in a row, all laying on their sides with their flippers on their
chests and that really looked cool.

This was my first time being able to observe seals for any length of
time in the wild and it's an experience I'll remember with great
fondness.  It's too bad I couldn't get any pictures but my camera
wouldn't show much more than spots from that distance.

My feet were getting cold (just sandals again) so I decided to have a
snack and take off.  By the time I finished the snack and water though,
the surge wasn't coming up on the ledge anymore and my feet were warmer
so I stayed another 10-15 minutes.

When I left, the water was more than 2 feet below the ledge so I got to
do a seal launch off of the rocks.  The bow hit the water while the
stern hung up on the ledge and I started to go over but was able to
brace on the bottom while the stern crashed into the water.

I scouted out a couple of more islands and worked my way down to Andrews
Island around 11:30.  There was a nice small beach on the end that would
make a good spot for lunch.  I decided to just paddle out first and look
down the outer coast of Andrews to see if there might be something else
a little further down.

Most of the outer coast was cool looking pink granite walls but no
apparent places to land for lunch so I turned around and started back to
the little beach.

And so begins another episode of the Misadventures of a C'yakker
Wannabe.

Just east of the upper part of Andrews Island, a couple hundred feet off
shore, is a group of seaweed covered rocks sticking out of the water at
low tide.  Just on the other side of these rocks are a few more, smaller
rocks that the waves are crashing over.

Now I just love watching waves crash over rocks and the swirling and
surging waters flowing back out again.  So I paddle over to the rocks
and sit there enjoying the sights and sounds as I rise and fall with the
waves.  Eventually I find myself maneuvering to the side of the rocks, I
guess with some half baked idea of catching a wave.

I felt the water fall away from under me and looked back over my right
shoulder to watch the wave come in.  I heard the wave breaking before I
saw or felt it and my body started to get ready to do a high brace when
the breaker hit me from the left side and I started to go over.  Instead
of doing a high brace on the left, my body went into a low brace on the
right (I had been practicing a little).  I hit the water once and
recovered a little.  I hit the water a second time and thought, 'hey,
this might actually work in a real situation' as I righted myself a
little more.  I hit the water a third time as 'something' hit the bottom
of the boat and I went over the rest of the way.

My first thought was 'damn, this water is cold'.  My second thought was
'No!  It ain't gonna end like this'.  And then I started swimming?

The rocks were about 25 feet away and I started kicking the kayak
towards them.  I'm to the side of the rocks so the waves aren't breaking
on me but I am riding the swells as they go past and I start wondering
if I'll get pushed past the rocks.  In 20-30 seconds, my legs are really
tired and they just slow down all by themselves and the kick weakens.
I'm about 10 feet from the rocks and wonder if maybe I should have been
thinking about self  rescue instead of swimming and get the paddle float
loose.

Now I'm two feet from the rocks so give another couple of kicks but the
swells are being reflected back off of the rocks so I can't get any
closer and I just kinda hang there.  Since the kayak is just laying
there like a water soaked log, I figure if I turn it over, it might
respond a little better.  I grab the cockpit coaming and lift and heave.
It goes up about halfway and no further.  I've done this many times
before in practice and many times without my feet touching bottom for
support.  Am I getting weaker?  I dunno but I try again.  This time, I
know I'm going to scoop a lot of water into the cockpit because I roll
it over more than lift it over.
  
I put my feet down to see if I can touch bottom but can't and start to
put the paddle float on and think 'be sure to fasten it to the shaft
this time, dummy'.  I also start to edge my way from the cockpit to the
bow, hoping I can reach out and grab the rocks and as I do, my foot
touches what turns out to be a tiny little ledge.

I get both feet up on the ledge and pull the kayak in towards me.  No,
I'm not between a rock and a hard place; the swells are trying to push
the kayak away from me.  They're also trying to push me off of my little
perch and succeed a couple of times.

So now I'm on the ledge, still have my kayak and paddle and I can take a
deep breath.  I notice my water bottle is gone and something is snaking
around my foot.  I just know it's my bow or stern line I throw behind
the seat, just in case and am able to kick out of it ok.

When the surge comes in, the water's up to mid-chest and when it goes
out, it's down to mid-shins.  I've got a water pump but wonder if using
it is going to warm me up or tire me out.  Instead I opt for the bailer
I've been carrying since a discussion on Paddlewise about foot and
electric pumps.  The bailer really did a good job and most of the water
was out of the cockpit in about two minutes with no strain.  Of course I
wasn't any warmer either.

Ok, so how am I gonna get my cold and tired old bones back into the
kayak with it bouncing back and forth between my chins and chest?  I
remembered reading about bracing when getting in from a dock or
something but couldn't remember what I had read.  I finally waited for
the surge to go out and got my left leg in the cockpit.  When the surge
came back in I just let my whole body raise with the kayak and held on
to the rock.  When the surge went back out again, I got the other leg
and my butt in and pushed away from the rocks with the paddle and back
paddled out of there.  Whew!

As I headed back to the little beach I started to shiver.  On the beach,
I broke out my lunch and a Camelback full of water I always carry along
with extra food and gear in case I have to overnight on an island.

The shivers stopped for a while but then started up again.  I put on a
fleece shirt and fleece socks and topped that off with a winter
windbreaker with the hood up.  When I got it snug against my body I
finally started to warm up.  Oh yeah, I had also pulled the top of my
farmer john up.  Sometimes I forget to pull it up when launching and
sometimes I leave it down because of the heat.

In retrospect:

This episode probably was not in the 'Oops' category and might actually
deserve an 'Oh Sh*t!' classification.

Swimming was not a good idea.  I should have begun a self rescue
immediately.  The cold sapped a good deal of my strength in a very short
time.

I will not carry loose rope in my cockpit any more.  I've since found a
nylon bag in which to carry loose rope.

If you have a knife such as a River Shorty, carry it on your PFD; it
doesn't do much good in an emergency tucked away in a dry bag.  I stowed
mine because I didn't want to look like a Rambo type.  I hooked it back
on the PFD during lunch and now don't much care if I look like Rambo or
Daffy Duck.

If you're going to wear a wet suit, wear it properly.  Having it pulled
down to your waist looses at least 90% of its heat retention
capabilities. It's your torso that really needs to retain the heat.

Get a decent pair of water shoes.  I had my crappy sandals on again and
one of them came loose, making things more difficult again.

Beware that the proximity of shore doesn't give you a false sense of
security.  Would I have played around those rocks a mile or more off
shore?  I dunno.   Just because it's there, doesn't mean it will help
get yourself out of a bind.

If I had managed a high brace into the breaking wave it probably would
have dumped me anyway because I don't think I would've leaned into the
wave at all.

I'll try to finish the trip report tonight.
  

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From: Sharky <sharky_at_pacific-ocean.com>
subject: RE: [Paddlewise] Thomaston, ME Trip Report # 1
Date: Thu, 6 Aug 1998 10:52:30 -0600
Sisler, Clyde wrote:

>>> <snip>
>>> Although there was one lady at the Sea Kayak Symposium that went close to 300 pounds.  
>>> I don't know if she was there to try out kayaks or barges or what.
>>> <snip>

Kayaks.

Sharky

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