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From: Sisler, Clyde <Clyde.Sisler_at_wang.com>
subject: [Paddlewise] Thomaston, ME Trip Report # 2
Date: Wed, 5 Aug 1998 10:22:20 -0400
Anyway, I hung out around the beach for an hour and a half before the
chills were gone and I felt normal again.  I then decided to continue
down the outside of Andrews Island and admired the pink granite walls
(they weren't really high enough to call cliffs).  They're kinda like a
real pale pink or fleshy color.  I got one really nice picture (I hope)
of the walls with trees above them and a brilliant blue sky with white
fluffy clouds (cumulus?) above them and some surf crashing into the
bottom of the walls.  The bow of the kayak probably snuck into the
picture.  It usually does.

At the bottom of Andrews I set sights for the last island in the chain
across a 2 mile passage.  I assumed this was Pleasant Island, which was
the last island on my chart.  The next chart had an inset where there
should have been some chart overlap so there was no way of knowing for
sure.

I then noticed a lighthouse with a red flashing light that wasn't on my
chart or the next one either.  Oh great!  There might be a gigantic
whirlpool over there big enough to suck up the Queen Mary and I wouldn't
know until it ate me too.  Now I can sympathize with Magellan when he
thought he might be sailing off the edge of the world as he sailed into
the great unknown.

Eventually I muddled my way over to Seal Harbor and the 3 miles back to
camp.

Saturday I drove 15 miles southwest(?) to Port Clyde (no relation) where
there were another dozen or so larger islands spread out over a 5 mile
or so area.  Port Clyde appears to be a working harbor with lobster and
fishing boats and fewer pleasure boats.  One 30+ foot boat had a harpoon
gun with a small harpoon (about the size of a big arrow) in it and had a
long bow sprit where it looked as if someone would stand waiting to
harpoon something.

Harpoon what?.   I think there are some sort of small whales in the area
but I haven't seen one yet and doubt if they'd be legal.  Porpoises,
illegal?  Tuna?  Sharks?  NOAA had broadcast something about the shark
fisheries being closed shortly, whatever that meant.

I headed up the St. George River where I meant to cross over to Gay
Island.  I apparently wasn't paying attention to the red nuns because it
seems I crossed over to Caldwell Island instead and when I got to the
other side everything was out of whack.  Every time I found a navigation
aid it seemed to be somewhere other than where it belonged.  My thought
for a while was that all the markers had been moved since my chart was
published.

Of course, just to make things interesting, there were 3 nuns marked # 2
all almost within sight of each other.  And..... there were two cans And
a day marker all marked as # 1.

On the way up the river I could see a 60-70 foot sailboat with 40-50
foot twin masts tucked away in a little cove.  As I paddled around
trying to figure out where I was, those masts were always there as a
beacon.

So I just paddled around a little, watched 4 osprey swooping around for
a while and then headed for the masts and from there back into the
harbor.  I figured I'd head out of the harbor from the ocean side and
tackle the islands from the other direction, hopefully with better luck.

I passed a small lighthouse protecting the harbor entrance and headed
out towards a fair sized rock island that appeared to have a beach where
I might land for lunch.  As I neared the island, sea gulls started
screeching and taking to the air.  They were pretty emphatic so I
guessed they were nesting and headed for the next island where the same
thing happened.  And the next.  Geesh, I just wanted a place to rest the
old bones and have a sandwich.

The only place left was Mosquito Island and that didn't sound very
inviting, but what choice did I have?  As it turns out, it was a great
place to land.  There was a nice beach with real sand on it and a
bleached log sitting up at the high tide mark.

After lunch I placed the PFD against the log, wiggled a hole in the sand
for my butt, calves and elbows and just leaned back and relaxed.  The
temperature was about 80F, a 5-10 knot breeze (when I'm on land it's a
breeze, when I'm on the water it's a wind) was blowing, the sky was
bright blue with a few clouds in the distance.  Within a couple of
minutes a pair of osprey appeared followed a minute later by a second
pair.  All four soared and hovered in the wind for about 5 minutes and
then left.  I nodded off and on for about half an hour or so.  Let's see
you do that with a group.  I couldn't really drift off though, because
the tide was coming in and I couldn't tie the kayak up because I don't
carry loose rope any more!!!!!!!!!

I had had to go a couple of miles out of my way for lunch and it was a
4+ miles crossing to Burnt Island.  The wind was up to 10-15 knots with
1+ foot chop.  I would have a chance to change my mind when I got to the
sea gull islands again but kept right on going and reached Burnt Island
in about 80 minutes, which I thought was pretty good for a beat up old
guy in those conditions.

I paddled around another hour or two and then headed for the harbor.
After pulling out, I stopped at the general store and waited half an
hour for a really crappy meatball sandwich, which I ate out on a nice
deck overlooking the harbor.  It was around 7pm and a lot of the day
sailors were out in the harbor as well as some of the dinkiest looking
dinghies I've ever seen.  Some of them were sitting lower in the water
than we do.  Good thing that lady from the symposium wasn't there.  The
wind and chop had died down or some of those folks would be practicing
their breast strokes.

Sunday I decided to head up to Rockland Harbor for a looksee.  I got off
to a late start and then got stuck on the camp ground beach talking to
different people so it was close to 8am before I got out on the water.

I had a very leisurely paddle up the coast, poking into little coves,
riding the surges and generally just lollygagging about.  Kinda like a
Sunday afternoon stroll through the park with your hands in your
pockets.

I got up to Sheep Island where I took a break on a beach of small
pebbles.  There was a group of large rocks, one which looked just like a
small seal stretching its back and tail so I got a picture of that.
There was supposed to be a pair of nesting eagles on Monroe Island, the
next island up.  I didn't see any nests from my side and didn't want to
get too close.

Rockland Harbor started right after Monroe and is guarded by a
lighthouse up on a rocky cliff and that was worth a picture.  When I
rounded the point I just sat there for 15-20 minutes because there were
several 50+ sailboats coming into the harbor and they looked great with
different rigs under full sail.  There was a lot of boa traffic and I
had to figure out what I wanted to do.

I saw a beach way on the other side and decided to paddle over there for
lunch and then come back along the shoreline.  Most of the traffic
seemed to be concentrated right where I was with very little over on the
other half so I waited for an opening and sprinted across a quarter mile
or so and was then able to relax for the last mile or so.

There's a big long jetty or breakwater about a half mile long with a
boarded up house on the end of it?  What's the difference between a
jetty and a breakwater?  They're both designed for people to walk on and
fish from right?  Well, enough of that nauseous nautical nonsense. 

I had lunch right below a golf course surrounding a bunch of condos,
then paddled around the jetty/breakwater thing into the harbor proper.
Here the water was pretty choppy and a 10 knot wind kicked up.  About
half way to shore I hear sirens and see a little red boat come flying
out from a dock.  It was followed a minute later by a 25 foot Coast
Guard cutter and my first thought was 'uh oh, busted again'.  Then I
thought he was chasing the red boat until I turned around and could see
lights flashing on the red boat.  I guess they were both heading out to
rescue someone.  Where were they Friday when I need them?

I paddled around the harbor for more than an hour admiring the many,
many large sailboats.  There was one that was kind of beat up and looked
like it had spent many years and many, many miles at sea.  There were a
few that seemed to be close to 100 feet long.  Some of them had people
aboard and they really looked tiny in relation to the boat.
 
About the time I started back the wind picked up to about 15 knots and
there was a 1+ foot following chop.  I had a couple of miles to go to
reach the light house and was just paddling along, minding my own
business, keeping the kayak straight and riding the waves when I could,
glad there was very little traffic in this area.  

I had been paddling about 45 minutes when I just happened to glance over
my shoulder.  Holy sh*t!   A freakin' tsunami is bearing down on me.
The rudder is up so all I can do is a back sweep a couple of times to
swing my stern into the wave and I just barely made it.  There were 6 or
7 waves in a row and while they weren't really tsunami size they were
all close to 3 feet.  I have no idea where they came from.  Once they
were past, I turned around and saw nothing but a ferry just heading out
and a trolling fishing boat.

Hey, it's dangerous out here.  Just like swimming in shark infested
waters.  You gotta keep looking around or something's gonna sneak up and
bite you.

As I sat there looking to see what caused those waves, I notice that the
fishing boat is heading directly for me so I sit there and watch the
approaching boat.  All this water and this boat is aimed right at me.
Dad is in the back with a fishing rod in his hand.  Brother is laid back
with his mouth open.  Sister is staring off into space and Mom (oh no)
is steering.

Dad hooks into something which wakes Brother up.  Sister is still
staring into space and Mom, thankfully cuts the engine back to idle.
Dad's fighting the fish, Brother grabs a long handled net large enough
to land a blue finned tuna, Sister is staring into space and Mom is
watching the show.  After quite a struggle and a lot of shouting, Dad
manages to land a fish that was at least 6 inches long.  At least I
think it was a fish.  Then again, it might have been his bait.  Dad
mumbles to himself, Brother flops back down, Sister stares off into
space and Mom (oh no) puts the boat in gear and heads straight for me
again.  Me?  I just sit there in dumb disbelief.

I start to back paddle as the shock starts to wear off.  Finally Dad
spots me and says something to Mom.  Mom gives me a haughty look and
finally veers off.  Whew!  Another one gets away.

As I round the lighthouse point, the 15 knot wind hits me directly in
the face.  Oh boy!  This is going to be fun.  I have about 4-5 miles to
camp and it's probably going to take more than 3 hours.  It actually
took about 2 ½ hours of paddling straight through.  The wind did let up
rather than pick up as normal, near the end and the chop went away too.








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