[Paddlewise] "Switchback" to the ol' canoe . . .

From: Karl Coplan <kcoplan_at_Genesis.law.pace.edu>
Date: Wed Sep 30 07:49:25 1998
After this, my first season of kayak commuting on the Hudson River, I 
loaded the family into our 15 year old Old Town Tripper for a labor 
day weekend paddle on the Raquette River in the Adirondacks.

I still prefer the canoe for a camping trip with gear.  I mean, no 
way am I going to load four days worth of supplies, two children, two 
adults, _and_ a dog into my sea kayak and stay upright.  The tripper 
handles all this stuff with ease, especially when it comes to loading 
and unloading.  And with that much ballast, it is very stable, too, 
even when some of the ballast (dog and kids) insist on moving around. 
 I just have to remember to push down on my knees when bracing, 
instead of up.

Admittedly, this barge is something of a dog to paddle after my 
Guillemot Coastal, but you can go for hours with a nice steady 
stroke.

Had a great trip on the Raquette between Long Lake and Tupper Lake, 
although I was disappointed to be reminded of how little wilderness 
is really left in the Adirondacks.  Too many houses on the lakes. 
Posted signs are everywhere on the shorelines.   We 
saw a couple of loons, but the motorboats chased them away on the 
lakes.  It mars the experience a little when the party at the next 
campsite over hops in their outboard runabout to run to "town" for 
dinner.  And I am not sure what to make of coyotes howling at the 
moon, which ignited a chorus of barking suburban dogs (our own stayed 
quiet for some reason).

The river above Raquette Falls was beautiful, and, for Saturday of 
Labor Day weekend, surprisingly empty.  We saw a sparrow hawk, and found
 a great campsite on a 
bluff rock overlooking the river.  The water was clear and cool.  The 
only fish biting were sunnies, though.  Very few boats passed (a 
couple of canoes and some very low powered outboards).

On sunday, after the portage around Raquette Falls, we discovered 
motorboat country.  Every few minutes, a runabout would come roaring 
around a bend in the river, at around 20 knots, splitting the air 
with noise, and drowning the riverbank with their wash.  Yes, most of them
 would slow down as they passed our 
heavily laden canoe.  But the Raquette River is only about 100 feet 
wide thereabouts, and I believe it is state law that you have to slow 
down to 5 knots within 100 feet of any shoreline.  We were excluded 
from a beautiful campsite by a party in a runabout who said they were 
just there until dinner time, then planned to "drive" home.  
Fortunately we found another empty campsite (though not as pretty, 
and within hearing distance of the road), and put up with the 
motorboats passing every few minutes until sunset.  Oh yeah, and the 
red and green navigation buoys on the river detracted from the 
wilderness feeling also.

Whip-poor-wills woke us in the middle of the night, as did a 
thunderstorm.

Tupper Lake was beautiful, but again, heavily populated  by houses 
and motorboats.  Even 
worse, all of most attractive looking lunch and swimming spots had 
posted signs on them.

I'll admit, I am spoiled.  Usually we spend a week canoeing in 
Algonquin Provincial Park each summer, where motorboats are banned on 
most of the lakes, the shorelines are all open for canoeists to land, 
there are no houses or roads, and the loons 
serenade you to sleep each night.  This year, we didnt have a whole 
week for our canoe trip, and looked for some wilderness closer to 
home.

Still, it was a good camping experience, nice swimming, nice 
campsites (and plenty of empty campsites, even on Labor Day weekend).
We have canoed Lows Lake and the  Upper Oswegatchie river in years 
past, which is much more of a wilderness experience, but requires a 
three mile portage.  The St Regis "Canoe Wilderness" is also, 
unforetunately, more like a hiking trip with a canoe on your back 
than a canoe trip with some portages (when the portages are generally 
longer than the lakes, something is wrong!).  I understand that 
Little Tupper Lake, recently aquired from the Whitney family, will 
have motorboats banned and camping allowed, but multi day canoe 
tripping routes appear to be quite limited.

Too bad that when the state aquired land in the Adirondacks, it didnt 
set aside just one chain of lakes with no roads, no camps, no private 
land, and no motorboats, just for those seeking peace and quiet under 
muscle power.  As it stands, the state owns a little land on most of 
the lakes, but private owners own most the land, and camps, posted 
signs, and motorboats rule. 


Professor Karl S. Coplan
Pace Environmental Litigation Clinic, Inc.
78 North Broadway
White Plains, N.Y.  10603
kcoplan_at_genesis.law.pace.edu
(914) 422-4343
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Received on Wed Sep 30 1998 - 07:49:25 PDT

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