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From: Gerald Foodman <klagjf_at_worldnet.att.net>
subject: [Paddlewise] Check Your Rudder Cables
Date: Sun, 13 Sep 1998 13:17:33 -0700
I was about 2 miles off shore alone in my Solstice GTS.  Conditions were
mild.  Maybe 2 or 3 foot swell, 1 foot chop, less than 8 knots wind.  The
rudder was up.  I was paddling slowly, relaxing.  Suddenly one rudder cable
snapped.  Right in the middle.  It must have been badly frayed.

I found to my pleasant surprise that the slide on the foot brace hits a nut
at the end of its travel.  So I reached in and moved the foot peddle a few
notches back and I had a very nice fixed brace.

Moral:  Don't be an idiot like me.  Check your rudder cables.  Also check
what would happen if the cable fails.  If the rudder is deployed, will you
be able to get it up?  Will you be able to convert to fixed braces?

I also have a Mariner Express, no rudder, which I love dearly.  But I also
love my GTS, with rudder; it is so easy to travel in a straight line no
matter what the wind.  No need to sweep, lean turn, use corrective strokes.
The boat goes through anything, straight as an arrow.  These boats could not
be more different.  This experience will make me more circumspect about
using the ruddered boat in rough conditions and I will carry spare cable and
crimping tool for travelling.

Jerry

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From: Dave Kruger <dkruger_at_pacifier.com>
subject: Re: [Paddlewise] Check Your Rudder Cables
Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1998 07:43:23 -0700
Gerald Foodman wrote:
> 
> I was about 2 miles off shore alone in my Solstice GTS.  Conditions were
> mild.  Maybe 2 or 3 foot swell, 1 foot chop, less than 8 knots wind.  The
> rudder was up.  I was paddling slowly, relaxing.  Suddenly one rudder cable
> snapped.  Right in the middle.  It must have been badly frayed.
[snip]
> Moral:  Don't be an idiot like me.  Check your rudder cables.  [snip] 
> and I will carry spare cable and crimping tool for travelling.

I've had similar experiences with rudder cable.  Most fraying occurs at
the stern where the cable makes an eye and is easy to detect.  However,
a buddy had his spring a strand loose in the middle, as happened to
Jerry, and *the strand got caught and "back-raveled" as he tried to
extract the cable!*  In the end, he had to drill a small hole into the
H-shaped extrusion the cable ran through and capture the strand before
he could pull it out.  Bummer of a job.

Re:  crimping:  does anyone know of crimps which are NOT copper?  The
copper promotes corrosion -- seems like a stainless steel crimping
sleeve would be a better choice.

BTW:  I use small vise-grips for field-crimps.  They seem to work OK --
going on two seasons of use on a set I field-crimped in Canada.

-- 
Dave Kruger
Astoria, OR
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From: <KayaknKen_at_aol.com>
subject: Re: [Paddlewise] Check Your Rudder Cables
Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1998 12:24:58 EDT
 << "Seems like a stainless steel crimping sleeve would be a better choice."
>>


Those things are refered to as Nico Press (sp?) fittings. And they do come in
stainless steel. There is a special tool for crimping them, but vice grips
seem to work fine. Check your marine stores.

Ken Mannshardt
SF Bay Area
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From: Michael Neverdosky <MichaelN_at_cycat.com>
subject: Re: [Paddlewise] Check Your Rudder Cables
Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1998 20:21:28 -0400
There are stainless steel end terminals made for aircraft that would
work well.
The terminal ends are not expensive but the tool to swage them on is.
The terminals are a few dollars each but the Kearney Swager to install
them is almost $4000.

If you know the exact length of cable needed you can go to a marine
rigging
shop and have them made up. You might need to take the boat and have the 
ends done in place.

BTW I have had good luck with Nicopress in many thousands of miles of
ocean sailing but they do need to be watched for problems.

michael

dkruger_at_pacifier.com wrote:

> Re:  crimping:  does anyone know of crimps which are NOT copper?  The
> copper promotes corrosion -- seems like a stainless steel crimping
> sleeve would be a better choice.

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