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From: Ari Saarto <asaarto_at_lpt.fi>
subject: [Paddlewise] VISITING THE RUSSIAN BORDER (3) - a trip report from
Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1998 09:09:55 +0000
Thirsty kayaker in heat of July, yellow ants and fog...


The 13m/sec, 26 knot western wind continued two days, but
it was again supposed to wear itself down towards the
evening of the third day. I left Kotka paddling against the
wind at 5 pm on June 21st, hoping it would get easier before
sunset, there was three crossings of about 4 to 5 kilometres
(2 1/2 to 3 miles) waiting me before I could reach Longoren
again. I had lucky cards: everything went as supposed, the
weather turned nice after an hour of paddling and building
my camp to a familiar place was very pleasant.

Next day I did 42 kms/26 miles in almost nonexisting winds
and was able to make safely long crossings via outer routes
quite far from the coast. The Navy Engineers were stopping
me onroute bacause they were blowing up some old mines
underwater, but when I stayed for half an hour to see the
spectacle nothing happened. I met the only fellow sea
kayaker of this trip just after I had got onshore to my next
camping place, Brokholmen, an island which has a sand-pit
from the 20īs and a spring with really excellent tasting
fresh water. We had almost similar routes and the guy had
actually been following me the whole day, I had just not
noticed his presence few kilometers behind me. His plans
were to paddle the whole coast down to town of Hanko, to the
most SW corner of the coast. He had a nice small teddy bear
on deck - a gift from his daughter. I did make a camp but he
continued, because the weather forecast was again promising
unpleasant western winds for the next day when I was
supposed to do a crossing of 8 kms/5 miles.

I had to stay onshore. I became really anxious. I was hoping
to get to home during the next two days and this lousy wind
was keeping me bound to this island. A woodpecker was waking
up early and staying up late in the woods nearby and it made
me irritated. The giant blueberries started also tasting
sour in my mouth.The wind was finally dying to the end of
the day and the forecast was promising really good weather
for the next day so finally I made a decision: I would cover
the last 70 kilometres/44 miles in a day. It would be
Friday, so my local pub "Double Moon" might be the last
harbour of this expedition...sigh..

It was 24th of July. I woke up at 3.30 am and after drinking
coffee packed my stuff in haste. The sun had risen shortly
after me so there was no time to waste. Everything was calm
and quiet and I paddled the first three hours pleasantly,
doing the crossing an dmeeting only few boats, before fog
surprised me at 8.20 am. I was watching the open sea on my
left, when I did notice the odd yellowish colour in horizon
and that the closest buoys were starting to vanish from
sight. I had barely time to check my route to the nearest
cape and get the correct direction using my compass, before
everything around me was covered by the fog. It took 10 mins
to paddle to the nearest buoy, one kilometer away to the
north and I reached it in time - to the cape it took another
10 minutes and another kilometer. Keeping time with my
wrist-watch helped checking my progress, there was no
landmarks visible, though the sun was shining to the middle
of the fog. Very odd situation.

I cooked some coffee on some rocks, waiting the fog to
leave, but in vain. Finally I decided to navigate to the
west from the cape with the help of my charts and compass,
even if there was a fairway and a crossing of 4kms (2 1/2
miles) waiting for me. I had to trust my ears: fortunately
the waters were familiar to me because I had paddled there
during the last summer expedition with my SO and I knew that
there would be very little traffic - if at all. Only few
tankers per day sailing to the oil refining area of Neste
Company in the north, near the town of Porvoo. I did take
the risk of crossing, because I did also knew that the
fairway was there only less than kilometer wide before the
first landmark, which was a tall buoy. I could reach the
buoy very fast, in less than 10 minutes, trusting my ears
and compass.

The crossing went perfectly, I paddled from buoy to a small
island and from there to the island of Onas, the place I
camped in after the very first day of my trip. Navigating
was actually great fun that time: there were only very
modest one-footers and practically no wind at all, I was
able to keep my direction easily. After the crossing I felt
the nature calling so I decided to walk aroud a bit after
reaching the coast-line of Onas. It became a very short
walk: after spending few minutes onshore in an unfamiliar
bay I was wondering about the funny, continuous rustling
noise the leaves kept around me. It turned out that the
place was full of blood-thirsty yellow ants - larger than I
had ever seen before! I ran to the water near my kayak with
my pants hanging in my knees, trying to brush the biting
beasts away from my diverīs socks and legs. What an
experience - you can never know what an expedition brings in
front of you...

I continued my paddling towards more civilized surroundings.
It was turning out to become a really hot day, almost dead
calm and no clouds in sight. the fog finally vanished
somewhere between 10 and 11 am.

It took me finally 15 hours to paddle to Helsinki. I was
taking the outer route, avoiding the busier inner fairways
because of the weekend traffic - people were going to visit
their summer cottages and camp in the islands near the
capital. Going back around the peninsula was now more
painful, there was so awfully many boaters and also the
Stockholm ferries leaving the city at 6 pm. A huge tourist
boat passed me in a narrow passage like a coach, from a
distance of 30 ft without slowing down. I entertained the
tourists with starting to paddle at full speed, flashing my
lunatic grin, beard, reflecting yellow mountain-climbers
sunglasses and beating the 4 ft wakes with my kayak head
high, splashing the bow over the crests.

The last two kilometers were the most painful ones. Mentally
I had already finished the trip and the last two bananas and
candy bars were not helping me anymore. My back was aching.
I started eating pain-killers which were packed in pockets
of my PFD for such an occasion. I had feeling that all would
have been much easier if there wouldnīt have been so many
breaks during the trip - I would have got more familiar with
my natural travelling rhythm and also had more time to
develop my strenght to make reasonable and effective
40-50kms/25-31miles per each day.

Finally, I reached the jetty of our club. All my strenght
was gone, it seemed to take endlessly long time to go home
the normal 10 mins walk with dirty clothes inside my
backpack, take a shover and make some really tasty espresso.
The fridge was empty, but the blue night was warm, sky was
still full light, streets were looking like everyone had
left the town for holidays and the basswood and the air
smelled fresh, smooth, and nice. I walked out to a park
where local restaurant kept itīs terrace. Needed a beer.



Cheers,

Ari Saarto

"Home of the Traditional & Famous Scandinavian Skinny-dipping [TM]"
Finland - Europe
GSM +358 - 50 - 526 5892
fax. +358 - 3 - 828 2815
e-mail: asaarto_at_lpt.fi
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