Re: [Paddlewise] floating tow rope

Thanks Mark I agree with your comments about needing a floating line and on
practicing with various systems and techniques so people can get skilled enough
to start a tow quickly in an emergency situation.  Don Dimond and I taught a
towing clinic so we had the chance to look into the various towing systems and
techniques in depth.  We of course have our own preferences and prejudices so
not everyone will agree with us.  We feel that for most Great Lakes paddlers a
30 to 50 foot tow line is sufficient and longer lines just add more bulk.
However if you think you will be towing in very large seas a line over 50 feet
might be in order.  More line gives you more options, but a long line gets
bulky unless you want to compromise by using a small diameter.

I prefer to only pay out as much line as needed since the more rope there is in
the water the greater the drag and wasted energy.  However it is worth noting
that in a following sea you may need to pay out the full length to keep from
getting overtaken by the towed kayak.  When heading into the wind a shorter
length is in order.  Also you take the emotional state of the person you are
assisting into account - the closer they are to you the better if their
confidence has been shaken.

I can't stress enough the importance of a shock cord in the system.  A friend
of mine towed someone five miles in 10 to 15 foot seas without a shock cord on
his tow line.  He said when the boats decided to head down opposite sides of a
wave it felt like being rear-ended in a car accident.  He is lucky he did not
peel the deck off his kayak in one of these impacts.  The average towing force
is normally less than 10 pounds, so it is the sudden shocks that need to be
damped out of the system - a thicker rope is not needed for greater strength,
but thicker lines are easier to pull on forcefully bare handed, and if rubbed
or frayed they are less likely to part when you need them most ( use as a heavy
a line as you can, as long as it does not get to bulky).

For long tows a deck mounted rig is less tiring than a waist mount.  Keep in
mind a Caribiner is not a suitable quick release since it will not open under
tension.  There are some great Cam-cleat deck mount rigs that you can release
one-handed while upside down and disoriented, and most commercial waist tows
have quick release buckles.  The big advantage to a waist tow is that unlike a
deck mounted system you can give it to someone else and have them tow you!  It
seems like I always end up on the hard work side of the tow line!  Although
Caribiners are workable I think they are a bit bulky and can tend to jam after
abuse and exposure to saltwater.  I have used some smaller stainless steel
clips that I found in the sailing gear at Boat US ( Halyard clips???) which are
a bit expensive, but seem to be just the ticket.

Mark Stirling wrote:

> I strongly suggest that people get out there and try out a few tow
> ropes.  I have both 100" foot homemade and a 60 foot Northwater
> systems towrope.  Both are equipped with stainless caribiners at each
> end and floats.  A sinking rope is next to useless in rough
> conditions.  Clearly someone needing towing is likely incapacitated
> and reaching into the water to pick up a sinking line puts that person
> at greater than necessary risk of capsize. The concept of the biner is
> that you can paddle past the distressed kayak and clip it on almost
> instantly without fuss.  The strain actually comes on gradually not
> with any sudden jerk if your towline is of reasonable length.  The
> lines I'm using  are of 7/16" and 1/2" diameter and the strength is
> more than adequate.  The primary consideration is handling.  The
> length to be paid out is to allow the towed kayak to be at the same
> relative position on its wave as the kayak towing.  This minimizes
> stress and makes towing any distance much easier.  I use an around the
> waist belt attachment with quick release buckle.  I have seem some
> deck mounted arrangements but have been doubtful about  their quick
> release ability which may be necessary in surf etc.  I believe a quick
> release arrangement to be superior to the "weak link" concepts
> proposed.  Again the best way is to get out in expected conditions
> somewhere safe (i.e. safe beach with onshore wind in rough conditions)
> and practice so you can use your rescue systems with ease and
> confidence.
>
> Mark
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