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From: Kevin Maude (home.com) <"Kevin>
subject: Re: [Paddlewise] Roof Racks
Date: Wed, 10 Mar 1999 22:49:24 -0800
Ralph,

As for which rack is better. I have used both on cars. They both seem to
hold up well and are capable of carry a load. One thing that I found out
recently is that you can buy adapters for either rack that will allow you to
put an part from the other company on your rack. I have Thule rack now and
wanted to put the hollyrollers (yakima) on it. They sold a little adapter
that made the square bars work with the hollyroller's round fittings.

Just something to consider.

Kevin Maude
-----Original Message-----
From: rdiaz_at_ix.netcom.com <rdiaz_at_ix.netcom.com>
To: paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net <paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net>
Date: Wednesday, March 10, 1999 9:18 PM
Subject: Re: [Paddlewise] Roof Racks

>John Lowe wrote:
>>
>>     I can see this starting something possibly but would like opinions
>> on roof racks for carrying a sea kayak.
>>     I have a 1996 Ford Taurus sedan and need to get a roof rack. Had
>> lots of recommendations for both Thule & Yakima, and I would like to
>> know who has these racks or others and what your suggestions would be
>> to best carry my kayak.
>
>Unlike feathered paddles vs. unfeathered, etc. I don't think you are
>going to see a holy war of Thule vs. Yakima.  They seem to be priced
>generally the same, have similar accessories, etc.  It can get pretty
>expensive either way depending on the towers you have to use, etc.  You
>may be looking at $300 all told.  Regarding features one company may be
>better in one and weaker in another.  Overall--a wash.
>
>You could get away with a much cheaper arrangement using the $29 setup
>involving foam blocks which comes with straps and tiedowns.  Or you can
>use the type of pads that stores sell for kneeling while gardening.
>That and some webbing straps and you are all set.  Here is an
>arrangement that one of my newsletter readers sent me two years ago that
>works just fine.  It is meant to carry some folding kayaks on a car roof
>(yeah, many of us do it at times to show off we have kayaks; a kayak
>inside your trunk isn't as sexy or attention getting) but would work
>just as well with a plastic boat.
>
>BEGIN ARTICLE FOLDING KAYAKER MAY/JUNE 1997
>
>A Cheap Roofrack
>Seymour Boorstein is an old friend from California.  While he is
>reasonably well-off (a psychiatry practice in California has to pay
>off!) and he certainly can afford the very best of things, Seymour seeks
>simple solutions for his needs.  Here is his idea for a cheap substitute
>for all the fancy Thule and Yakima roof racks with their kayak cradles,
>stackers, special tower adapters, et al:
>
>"Great talking to you! I have used the following roof rig on the Lexus
>ES-300 and LS-400 successfully to carry one or two Feathercraft K-Lights
>going at 60-70 mph on our freeways.
>
>1.  Front and rear bumper tie-downs.  Voyageur (1-800-843-8985; or
>802-496-3127) has a bow/stern tie down kit (item # 2007149; $13.95).  It
>is real simple with 12 foot straps and well-designed “S” hooks.  The kit
>is sufficient for one K-Light.  When carrying two, I use an NRS-6 foot
>strap ($4.05; see NRS ordering info below) which can easily lengthen
>these tie-downs. These are cinched snug but not boat-bending tight.  The
>kayaks are held more securely if you crisscross the Voyageur straps,
>i.e. from right boat to left side of bumper, left side boat to right
>side of bumper.
>
>2.  Two NRS-15 foot tie down buckle straps.  These (item # 1440-15,
>$5.65; NRS at 1-800-635-5202) come with protective plastic under the
>buckles.  I tie these straps down just in front and behind the cockpit.
>I run one of the straps through the shock cord loop of the boat’s
>cockpit cover so that if the cover blows loose it won’t get lost.  Each
>strap is run through the car’s open doors and secured to itself from the
>other side within the passenger area.  The straps are thin enough that
>the doors can close on them with no damage or bulge.  I cinch all the
>side tie-downs real tight, letting them indent the air sponsons quite a
>bit. (Editor’s note: make certain they’re not overly inflated.  On hot
>days, you may damage the sponsons.  Also when going to higher
>elevations, the compressed air inside expands and could damage them—see
>Folding Kayaker, Jan/Feb 1994, p. 10)
>
>3.  Roof pads.  (Editor’s note: This is the heart of the system and what
>makes it so cheap and applicable to any car without a lot of extra
>adapters or adjustments and tedious work like in any of the commercially
>sold racks).  I use four simple garden kneeling pads, the rectangular
>ones that have a cut-in handle in them and cost about $5 at any
>department store or garden shop.  Better yet are the bigger square ones
>from Brookstone that come in red or yellow and cost about $10.  Their
>smooth surfaces really stick to the roof and do no damage to the
>finish.  To avoid losing the pads while getting boats on and off, I tie
>small pieces of nylon cord from their handles to the kayaks or the
>tie-down straps.
>
> Some other points:  I protect the car finish where straps may be in
>contact with it such as the bow and stern straps.  My solution is some
>soft pieces of fleece or flannel attached to the straps at points of
>contact with heavy duty rubber bands.  I also learned that it is useful
>to put some twists in all the straps so that they don’t vibrate at high
>speeds like violin strings.
>
>---END FOLDING KAYAKER ARTICLE
>
>You see, you don't have to spend big bucks.  Pocket the difference or
>spend it on a better paddle or toward some cold water apparel to extend
>your season.
>
>best,
>
>ralph diaz
>--
>-----------------------------------------------------------------------
>Ralph Diaz . . . Folding Kayaker newsletter
>PO Box 0754, New York, NY 10024
>Tel: 212-724-5069; E-mail: rdiaz_at_ix.netcom.com
>"Where's your sea kayak?"----"It's in the bag."
>-----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
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