[Paddlewise] Trip report: Everglades City to Picnic Key

On Good Friday evening I finally convinced Robin, my 13 year old son to head
out to the Everglades National Park. He has a fear of alligators and when he
learned there weren't any in the brackish water, he decided to go. (I didn't
mention the salt water crocs or the sharks)

I called Chuck Landis, a Paddlewisenheimers, and asked if he wanted to go.
He readily agreed and we decided to meet at Everglades City around 9am,
about a 2 hour drive from Delray Beach where we both live.

This was our second trip to the area and the first without an organized
group and leader. It would also be our first trip to the area with out the
paddler from hell (Another story..Chuck can fill you in).

I carefully checked the tides and weather at www.marineweather.com
<http://www.marineweather.com>  and based on a 12 noon low tide, we'd have
plenty of time to unload and paddle out to the Gulf on a retreating tide,
which could hit 2-3 knots. 

Robin and I  left the house at 6:30 and stopped at Winn Dixie, a local
supermarket. I picked out a lusty little Ozzie Merlot and some plastic wine
glasses. I then discovered to my horror, that you can't sell wine in Florida
until 8am!. 

We arrived at 9:15 and saw Chuck's red 77 Volkswagen convertible with the
K-Light on the roof already in the parking lot. Chuck was in the ranger
station and had managed to secure a spot on Picnic Key, a leisurely 8 mile
paddle and beautifully situated on the Gulf of Mexico. Almost all the sites
in the park were occupied so we were very lucky. We had visited Picnic Key a
few weeks earlier so we knew it was an ideal spot. One small problem...Low
tide is at 10:30 and it's 1 1/2 hours behind low tide at the key. I looked
for a nice Merlot in the park store, but the closes I could find was a 6
pack of  beer.

We loaded our boats in the parking lot and carried them to the put in. I
paddled the Nordkapp with most of our gear and water, Robin was in the
kevlar Falcon 16, and loaded as lightly as possible. Chuck loaded his at the
put in, which is totally incongruous for a National Park that caters to
paddlers. You have to climb down some concrete sandbags and walk into muck
loaded with sharp oyster shells. The concrete ramp was designed and built
for the canoe outfitter and has no easy access from the parking lot.

We got away around 11 or so and paddle across the bay for a couple of miles
in slack conditions. The weather was beautiful, sunny and around 88F and not
too humid. We passed one of the tourist boats as the guide pointed out the
kayakers "on your left". We headed into the channel that leads out towards
the Gulf. 

The current started picking up and soon we were fighting a 2-2.5 knot
current and a headwind. There are literally thousands of mangrove islands in
the area and various routes, but with the current we decided to take the
easiest route through the main channel. Robin started lagging early on. This
was his first paddle trip for many months. Chuck, on the other hand, was
more then patient after mentioning his recent 16 mile paddle with a 20
minute break.

We cut through a very interesting area of mangroves, channels and small
islets which seemed to lessen the impact of the current and cut down on the
wind. We emerged from the mangroves and paddled towards what I though was
Picnic Key. Luckily I consulted the GPS at that point and discovered we were
1 island over from where I thought we were. 

As we were coming around the point and onto the Gulf of Mexico a huge marine
creature emerged under my boat. I thought it was going to knock me back and
over, but it never actually broke the surface. It was bigger then a dolphin
and may have been a large manatee or possibly a shark of some sort. We
didn't see it break the surface. It did cause Robin to close up the ranks!

We had most of the island to our selves. A couple from West Palm had set up
shop about 200 yards down the beach. We immediately set up the wing (Noah's
tarp by Kelty), unfolded the camp chairs and set up the butane burner (Gaz)
and cooked up some Ramin noodles.

We later set up the tents and  gathered some drift wood for a fire and lazed
about for the afternoon.

We made supper early. We all ate some form of exotic freeze dried concoction
with impossibly difficult directions ("Where's that damn ring?") and set
about making the fire. Chuck paddle out to catch fish.

We watched the sun go down and finally got the fire going. That's where the
advantage of  having a gasoline stove really shows. Then the invaders
arrived. 

The group leader on our first trip was an ex-marine. About the same time in
the evening he had yelled "Gooks in the wire!". He was referring to the
raccoons. Although we had made it through our first visit to Picnic
unscathed, we had become lax and this time they nailed us...they got the bag
with the granola bars...at least a dozen...dragged off into the woods and
never to be seen again. At least it wasn't the bag with my car keys!

There is no fresh water on the key so the raccoons have a lust for fresh
water. We made sure to lock up our water in the boats.

We invited  our up the beach neighbors for a beer and  a chat  around the
fire, which seemed to be holding it's own. They retired and we watched the
stars for a while. Chuck pointed out many of the constellations and we
turned in.

The almost full moon came up much later and the beach was ablaze in light.
It's amazing what the night accustomed eye can see if you don't have some
gonzo flashing a headlamp in your eyes (a reference to the previously
mentioned paddler from hell)

We woke up around 7 and there were thousands of no seeums (midges) coating
the aptly named no-seeum netting. A few shots with the pyrethin spray
knocked them back but they were soon back up to full complement. Robin and I
packed the gear while we waited for the sun to rise a little higher and
drive the bugs back to the mangroves. We emerged and made one of the best
cups of Earl Gray I've had in a while, and waited for low tide so we could
ride the currents back to Everglades City. The return trip took around an
hour and a half. For the same 8 miles and was punctuated by a few dolphins.
We were being pursued by a cacophony of canoes and raced a little to make
sure we arrived at the takeout before they did. 

The take out was painless and we were on our way around noon. Chuck headed
home and Robin and I stopped in Everglades City for a clam strip and crab
cake lunch. 

The weather was perfect with the temperature just at 90F as we left. On the
way home we watched a  bum set up on one of the exits on 95 with a sign that
said: "Why lie? I need a beer!"  When he received our donation, the third
car in line, he exclaimed "Have way to a six pack!" I warned him not to blow
it on food.

I learned a lot from the list about kayak camping which is new for me. I'll
probably take an extended trip later in the year, but these overnights are
great for working out the bugs. We could have comfortably spent 3 or 4 days
on the key with the addition of some extra food and a few of gallons of
water. The following are a few conclusions I have drawn from the past two
trips:

1.	A wing tarp is a must have..first up and last down.
2.	A small propane stove and light is a space and weight effective
alternative to gasoline stoves and battery powered area lamps.
3.	The US Government issue 3M repellent really works and is a must
have!
4.	A comfortable chair makes all the difference
5.	A table or eating surface would be a great addition. (next project)
6.	A 2 1/2 gallon hanging water bag (Stearns, etc) is a must have.
7.	The camping hammock was a success, but a little buggy.
8.	I bought a pair of Zeiss compact binoculars...expensive but worth
it.

I still need to find a compact roll up table and a better way of organizing
all the eating equipment. I 'd also like to figure out a smart way of
locating my position on a map using GPS coordinates. Any suggestions?

cu








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