Dry reading for a wet experience. Sid Taylor FLOAT REPORT Isla Angel de la Guarda Circumnavigation March 28th to April 5th, 1999 Group Members: Dan Westermeyer Paul Roggensack Konstantin Gortinski Sid Taylor Nothing is more hypnotic than a somnolent shore. The sea seems to sigh as one breathes in time with its gentle heaving. There is therapy here on the Sea of Cortez, far from the dizzying labyrinth of urban life. The four of us stretch and survey the dazzling panorama of Bahia de los Angeles. The air wafting in the evening breeze is intoxicating and everyone is smiling. Several friends and I have conspired to escape our routines and are about to circumnavigate Isla Angel de la Guarda, the second-largest island in Mexico. This bay was first visited by a European in 1746 when a Jesuit priest, Fernando Consag, hiked from Mision San Francisco de Borja, twenty-one miles west of the bay to find a more convenient route to bring supplies from ships at sea. The mission lies in a lovely valley and is intact. Mass is celebrated on Easter for the benefit of ranchers in the area. Friends and I were deterred from visiting a spring there by men who advised us the women were bathing. If you visit the place, do not park or drink beer near the church. We have driven for ten hours from San Diego to arrive "LA Bay". It was easy to cross the border at Tijuana Saturday morning while the party-goers slept. We found that the cost of auto insurance was about the same for a year as for the ten days we planned to be in Mexico. A tourist card is no longer required in Baja. The sea of Cortez has become increasingly popular among kayakers. The more intrepid and skilled paddlers venture out to the relative solitude of its islands. This is my second time around Guardian Angel, lured back by its remoteness and stunning beauty. Its prodigal shore is wild and untrammeled since it split from the peninsula thirty miles to the north. Its life is its own to evolve. We have planned well for the tour. A Float Plan was prepared and given to loved-ones. We have good first aid kits, about 65 pounds of water each, sound boats, charts, safety and distress equipment. We park our vehicles with Roberto Garcia at Punta la Gringa and give him a copy of our Float Plan. He advises us to be wary of the wind in the Canal de las Ballenas (Canal of Whales) which separates us from the island. He knows the moods of this sea, having been a fisherman for many years until an infection in his left leg incapacitated him. It is a shame a simple antibiotic wasn't available to spare him this fate. The sea, having arrested our attention since arrival, is calm. It is about 65 degrees F, a few degrees warmer than the water. Comments are made on how cool the weather is, though it is clear tonight and the sky is sprinkled with stars. There will be a full moon on Wednesday. We survey the beach just to the south for a suitable launch. A woman camped here with family, thinking we are making camp, recalls having seen others inundated here at spring tide. We assure her we will be gone before she rises. Day 1 Paddle to los Machos. Landmark Latdgmn Longdgmn Dist/CumNM BearingMN Notes la Gringa 29 02.0 113 31.5 0/0 352toPlosMachos Launch los Machos 29 16.5 113 27.5 19/19 Camp1 032899 0630 There is no wind as we are about to embark and a clear sky. We pass Isla Smith inside its channel at 0810 and head MN toward Punta Los Machos. It is calm at 0925 in mid-channel and we arrive Punta Los Machos at 1150. There are hundreds of sea lions here. Our first camp is a few miles to the north. There is a 15 knot afternoon breeze on this barren beach with its a few cardon and torote. Dolphins swim past our beach. Dan is hungering for calamari and we talk about the whales near Coronado, perhaps greys. There are "tons of jelly fish" in the clear water. At about 1700 we eat dinner. The diving here looks enticing but it is too late by the time our gear is up and the wind is discouraging. Today we have seen blue herons and American oyster-catchers. There are cotton-like, fractal clouds low and below the ridge and a sea fog thickening. The wind has not died yet. Day 2 Paddle to Puerto Refugio Landmark Latdgmn Longdgmn Dist/CumNM BearingMN Notes PRefugio 29 33.0 113 34.5 17/36 000PNidosPRefugio.trend Camps2, 3 032999 0630 It is a beautiful morning. At 1650 we landed in plain view of Isla Granito. I dove from my boat before landing and shot a leopard grouper. Dan got a big Pargo kicking-out from camp. It is warm and calm. There is an Osprey nest just back before we turned into the channel between Islas Mejia and Angel de la Guarda. In November of 1996, fishermen were camped on Isla Mejia, below its little shrine. Today there are two small yachts seen. Don paddles his inflatable kayak from his catamaran to our camp for a visit. The moon is almost full and there are light clouds. The sun has set on a languid sea. My pot-lid is gently clanking as my pasta boils. Dan is cooking his Pargo. Food tastes better, one breathes deeper and sleep is more sound after a good paddle. We are content in our pleasant solitude. Day 3 Layover at Puerto Refugio 033099 We slept-in till 0530. It's calm and clear and a layover day. Konstantin is in the shade with his bug-net hat, Dan is taking photos of the sunrise and Paul went for a walk. The temperature is around 75-80 degrees F. The sea lions could be heard on Isla Granito most of the night, but are quiet now. At 0910 I am on a ridge from which I can see islas Mejia, Granito and blinding-white Roca Vela to the south. The spikey islet in front of Isla Granito looks like a fistful of rockets. It's hot and dry. Day 4 Paddle to Punta el Pulpito Landmark Latdgmn Longdgmn Dist/CumNM BearingMN Notes PelPulpito 29 23.0 113 21 18/54 296PelPulpito/Procosa Camp4 033199 It is pleasant but breezy as we round Punta Acantilado at 0815. Its calmer around the point where we stop briefly to eat. It's low tide and the current is against us. There is a good landing at "Purple Beach" with its lone cardon and a window rock , halfway between Puerto Refugio and Punta Pulpito. There are tinajitas in this area, the equivalent of ephemeral vernal pools. After the beach in same area to south are Cuevas Amarillas (photo with jug on shore) ... a nice place, a great camping spot, hundreds and hundreds of sea lions, the juveniles following close. About twenty to thirty of them swimming along and then popping their heads up in unison to peer curiously while bobbing sideways. They are splashing about and diving under the boats joyful little bubbles trailing behind them.. We sight Punta Maria , blond and brown and low on the horizon. Punta Pulpito can be seen beyond. The seals continue to breach and flip and twist in front of the pink and amber hills in the deep green water. Yet more sea lions approach curiously. One is thermo-regulating, his one fin and his feet pointing skyward while the others perform antics around him. They follow close at a good clip and are made to fall behind only with effort. The sea lions end at Punta Maria. Landed at 1300 just north of Punta Pulpito, very hot today. We hunker down in the meager shade of a rock to escape the heat. Inside a cave 1740 Dan and Paul and Konstantin went diving as I hiked to the top of Punta Pulpito where I found a survey monument with the notation" 29407 30/3/80" in concrete. Today I saw 3 herons, a kingfisher, allot of sea lions. The others are tossing rocks about to find a place for their stoves. Diving was good with lots of fish, corals etc. Dan is coming around the corner carrying his dinner gear into our cave. In response to his "How do you like the cave? I said "I don't like it, is there a bigger one?" Dan said yes there one just down the way. We see bats flit about. They are the kind that swoop down and snatch fish with their claws. At Punta Pulpito there are cylindrical white towers about 8 inches in diameter and three feet high which appear to be made of dung. There were nine dolphin skeletons and one sea lion skull, dead birds sandblasted bottles on the beach. Refried beans, tortillas, ... fish for dinner. We all have much food and are interested in eating it to make our boats light. (K returned with 4 gallons, using five, I used 64 lbs and some cans) Dan is pleased with his new stove and has rigged a grill for the fish, some of which is broiled in foil and some cooked in oil. Day 5 Paddle to Pulpito Este Landmark Latdgmn Longdgmn Dist/CumNM BearingMN Notes Pulpito Este 1165 PRocosa 29 18.0 113 09 5/71 330Rocosa/PEstanque round at slack 040199 Windy last night, my boat rolled over. I had to put rocks in it. Paul's rolled over quite a few times. After a reconnaissance in the morning we decide we can handle the wind which has died locally to 15 knots. We begin late at 1010 and at 1250 it is windy out here. We're about half way going at half pace. We got just inside Punta Pulpito where it is calmer for a moment. The prevailing northerly funnels down the Canal de las Ballenas. As it meets the constriction formed by the proximity of Punta los Machos and Punta Remedios on the peninsula it accelerates. The island is its narrowest and lowest just below this constriction so the wind turns eastward to blow offshore in Bahia Pulpito. This is why it is important not to cross the 12 NM of the bay, so we skirt the shore. We've gone about seven miles though it seems we're making rotten headway. Dolphins feed offshore as we finally land at 1600 in Pulpito Este which is indented with sandy beaches. It was a paddle-leash, anorak day and my S'Wester hat was put to good use. I hope it will calm down though it can blow for days. Everything is lovely when you're in camp with dry clothes on. Day 5 Paddle to Cerro Prieto Landmark Latdgmn Longdgmn Dist/CumNM BearingMN Notes CerroPrieto 29 03.5 113 07.5 14/85 338Bpulpito/CerroPrieto 040299 0600 Launch. It began raining at 0030 got up at 0430 got on the water by 0600 beautiful morning sun blasting on the side of the little point, the moon just starting to wane over the ridge. Punta Pulpito just to the north looks magnificent. There are palms just south of Punta Roca. Perhaps there is seasonal water. We landed at Cerro Prieto (Black Hill) near Isla Estanque (Lagoon Island) about 1500. There are about 5 ospreys just east of Pulpito Este. We saw dolphins while we paddled against the current for all but the last hour. The place is intriguing with its dried-up shark carcasses, pelican bones, spider crab carapaces and shells, bits of line, two-stoke bottles glass jars, chair remains, crate lumber, pieces of fabric tumbled and blasted and bleached and desiccated, half buried in the fine sand. There is other flotsam strewn about. Dan acquired a sea lion skull complete with lower jaws. I collect some shark teeth. Day 6 Layover at Cerro Prieto 040399 I walk along the beach at Cerro Prieto and its warm with a light breeze. I'm using about a gallon a day and have brought a dozen oranges, two cans of pork and beans two cans of soup and two of fruit. I'm eating mostly pasta. I drank a liter on the hike to Punta Pulpito. Ones stays pretty cool on the water with the spray. Its about 80 degrees F and likely to reach 90 degrees F. Everyone wishes we had more time because we're passing so inviting beaches and calico hills. The area south of Punta Roca , the northwestern end just before Puerto Refugio, the north east coast near the sea lions persuade future exploration. Curiously, I saw two blue and white boxcar-shaped structures yesterday on the beach fronting the lagoon but not today (perhaps it was only the signs which notify the visiter that this is a natural preserve). The old palapa Paul and I had seen in 1996 was blown apart though the frame, secured with rope, remains staunchly planted. Beyond its sparse frame, high upon a ridge, a cross is planted, though I can only speculate what tragedy it commemorates. Perhaps a fisherman stranded without water. The last time we were here several barrels held the dried and salted remains of pepinos (sea cucumbers) which are shrunk and sold to the Japanese for rehydration and consumption. It is disheartening to see waste superimposed over population expansion. It is difficult, lacking refridgeration and transportation complications, to bring the catch to market. On our last trip we also observed a mother ship out of Bahia Kino towing five pangas which were deployed for hand-line fishing. As the sun dropped below the horizon the pangeros made their way back across the sea. Dan, Paul and Konstantin went for a hike to the ruins of La Almeja circa 1923 and saw foundations, pits and a road and a walled structure. Apparently clams were processed here long ago. I have to repair my boat with epoxy. The stern keel was cracked and worn from so many landings. Konstantin's boat leaked in the bow section and the day hatch. His clothing and other items are drenched. Wet clothing in the wind is no fun and he is provided with spares till the sun dries his. Tomorrow we will round Punta Colorada going with the ebb. Pray for no wind. The gulls are nesting, when they fly over you and squawk, you know its time to make a 90 deg turn. I saw a kingfisher and a heron, and a hummingbird revved its wings and hovered at my tent this morning. I also see fat quail-like sandpipers along the shoreline. A male female pair of vireos consort in the brush also, the tail of the male bobbing in jerk-like motion. Time to eat. Its 0700, I'm in bed, Konstantin is in bed, I think Paul is in bed. Dan may be dinking around. Its been a hot day with good diving. It's an interesting thing about fish in camp. If you shoot it you end up cleaning it and cooking it and talking everyone else into eating it. It's easy to shoot a fish, that's the fun part. The rest is labor though fresh fish is tasty no doubt. We are too soon near the end of our tour and tomorrow we paddle around Punta Colorada toward los Corallitos. The tide will turn around 0110 and then it will begin flooding in. If the weather is really good we could flood on in to la Gringa tomorrow, a 27NM paddle. Day 7 Paddle to Playa Iguana Landmark Latdgmn Longdgmn Dist/CumNM BearingMN Notes PColorado 29 00.0 113 09.0 7/92 264tolGringa south end Playa Iguana 29 01.6 113 11.2 6/98 254tolGringa Camp5 040499 Paul's birthday. It blew like hell last night. I had the tent up for rain but zipped it up, struck it down and placed my weight belt on it when the wind began gusting to 35 knots. I slept next to my boat to keep it from blowing away. It's still windy but we have it and the ebb current at our back for a bit. We can ditch along the way if necessary. K and I paddled off the little point and take a look. It looks doable and the others ready for a paddle. If one is going to be miserable it might as well be in the kayak instead of on shore wishing you were. Rounding Punta Colorada, it was windy and kind of steep, maybe some four footers, a few breakers. Right before the point there are some gullies if you need to get out, one looked particularly good. Landed on Playa Iguana at 1400 after rounding the point at 1020. The repair on the stern keel held but the aft hatch coming snapped loose. It will be repaired. There is some water in the bow hatch. Konstantin's hatch no longer leaks which problem was attributable to sand in the gaskets. We hope for calm in the morning. It has been windy enough to use a paddle leash. The view south to islas Partida, la Raza, Salsipuedes, Animas and San Lorenzo triggers new plans. To the west can see Vulcon. 1830 we are eating dinner and drinking hot chocolate with brandy. The wind seems to be dying and the sea calming. We are 1/2 way to los Corallitos from Punta Colorada. There is abundant evidence of iguana here. This is my favorite camp so far. I go to the head of the canyon seeing torote, mesquite, ironwood and several blossoming flowers. The green bush begins to yellow with bloom. Using pebbles I leave a note on a slab of rock " SID"4/4/99. Perhaps it will be here when I return for a third time Day 8 Paddle to Punta la Gringa Landmark Latdgmn Longdgmn Dist/CumNM BearingMN Notes La Gringa 17/116 90to la Gringa Landing 050599 Left Playa Iguana at 0650 landed at Punta la Gringa at 1430. Paddled against an ebb and slight north breeze. Later we visit the museum in Bahia de los Angeles. It is a first rate museum with the skeletons of marine mammals, native Cochimi artifacts, ranch culture exhibits, photographs and great books for sale. We also visit the turtle refuge at Dagget camp area. The tour never ends. *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List Submissions: paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net Subscriptions: paddlewise-request_at_lists.intelenet.net Website: http://www.gasp-seakayak.net/paddlewise/ ***************************************************************************
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