RE: [Paddlewise] Trip destinations in SE Alaska

> From: Thomas Unger [mailto:unger_at_tumtum.com]
> Sent: Monday, May 17, 1999 11:16 AM

> I've been looking for a good place for a three week trip 
> somewhere along
> the pacific northwest coast.  I have not yet found the 
> perfect place and
> was hoping for some advice.  Here's what I've been looking for:
> 
>  o somewhere north of vancouver island.  Canada is cheaper, but 
>    the coast in SE Alaska seems more suitable.
> 
>  o Someplace that has more protected shore line.  Occasional or
> moderately
>    exposed coast line is OK, but not any outside coast.
> 
>  o Somewhere that feels remote and of wilderness.
> 
> What I'd most like is to take the ferry to one place then spend three
> weeks paddling to another place, and catch the ferry home.  
> But I don't
> know enough much about conditions in SE Alaska and am having trouble
> getting information.  What parts are privately owned and camping not
> permitted?  What parts are currently being logged and would be
> unappealing?  What parts are more pleasing?
> 
> I'm currently looking at a trip to Kuiu island.  I'd like to 
> make this a
> loop trip by paddling around the north side, then portaging across the
> middle.   But I hear that there is logging activity on the whole north
> part of the island.  Would it be a very unappealing part of 
> the trip?


    SE Alaska (Southeast) is definitely going to meet with your desire for
remote wilderness!  Actually, a 30 minute paddle away from just about any
town in Southeast is going to put you in wilderness.
  The Southeast Marine Highway (state ferry system) is a very cost effective
way to travel up here (you definitely can't drive!).  Check out
www.juneau.com or www.state.ak.us for links to info on the ferry system.
  Be aware that areas that look fairly protected on a map can be _very_
rough and hazardous to paddle for days at a time.  Chatham Strait, on the
west side of Kuiu can be a challenging piece of water.  
  Most of Southeast is part of the Tongass National Forest - there's really
very little privately owned land outside of the "metropolitan" centers.  The
reality of things is that you can camp just about anywhere you can find a
safe landing - assuming that a bear doesn't have that section of beach
already staked out.
  I don't know what information you have about trails on Kuiu, but assume
that you must know of one if you're planning a portage across it.  For me
the mere concept of trying to bushwhack several miles or more through
typical Southeast terrain sounds like a masochistic nightmare!  Doing it
with a kayak on your back......  Without knowing the exact specifics of the
area I would predict knee deep mud, steep terrain, the ubiquitous devil's
club, etc.  The nice thing is that you don't have to be concerned about
poisonous snakes.
  There are some areas of Southeast that are logged, I've not been down to
Kuiu, and don't know of anyone offhand that has, so I can't comment on that,
but on the ferry trips I've taken around Southeast (Kethchikan, Wrangell,
Petersburg, Sitka, Juneau, Haines/Skagway) I've seen some logged areas, but
nothing that would put me off very much.  Paddle around the next corner and
it's gone.
  You might want to look into paddling in Misty Fjords down near Ketchikan -
it's a gorgeous area!  A nice three week trip might be to take the ferry
from Bellingham to Sitka and then paddling up along the coast of Baranof
Island and then cutting over to Peril Strait and the up the coast of
Chichagof Island (stop at Tenakee Springs for the hot springs), Pick your
day for the crossing of Chatham Strait, and then up around then north end of
Admiralty Island and over to Juneau.  It would be a long trip, but if you're
looking to do some serious paddling, and excellent one.
  Another nice trip would be paddling from Wrangell or Petersburg to Juneau
or From Ketchikan up to Wrangell/Petersburg.  I would plan a trip paddling
generally from South to North to take advantage of the prevailing winds
(generally southerly).
  If you want to paddle out of some of the smaller villages (anything other
than the towns I mentioned above you'll have to plan carefully, because the
ferries only service the smaller villages on a limited basis.
  Any trip that takes you far from the major towns will generally put you
out of range for help via VHF unless there happens to be a fishing boat
nearby.
  If I can provide more specific info please contact me directly unless you
feel it would also benefit the list.

Dave Seng
Juneau, Alaska


***************************************************************************
PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List
Submissions:     paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net
Subscriptions:   paddlewise-request_at_lists.intelenet.net
Website:         http://www.gasp-seakayak.net/paddlewise/
***************************************************************************