G'Day, Below is a trip report, which is a bit long, but hope you find it interesting. PeterO This describes a 35km trip by a somewhat inexperienced kayaker through Sydney Harbour on Saturday 12th June 1999. At 8:15 I start from home at Fiddens Wharf where the convicts of two centuries ago had a tree felling operation and used Lane Cove River to float logs down to the harbour. Arrive at Lane Cove River Park weir at 8:30 and start to set up the Klepper. By 9:15 the boat is fixed with all the trimmings including a deck compass which I don't think I'll need but take anyway. At this point a bus of elderly folk on a day trip arrives and while finishing the assembly I hear whispers behind me: Woman "I don't know if I should ask him?" Friend: "Well I'm going to any way". It turns out they want to know if my Klepper is a racing skiff. What a compliment to start the day! A fellow nearby wants to know what I do if it tips over and have I practiced in the water or only on dry land. He points out that my sponge isn't really big enough, which is true, but on seeing the electric pump honour is satisfied. (But I'll buy a bigger sponge on Monday). Anyway the group appears to lose interest and I go back with some difficulty to fitting wheels to the boat. For the first time in its life its fully loaded and tips sideways at the slightest provocation. But I get the hang of it, then move gingerly to the weir. Above the water there's about two metres of algae covered flag stones - very slippery - take shoes off - even worse - Oh for spiked running shoes! Ease the kayak a quarter into the water; take off the wheels and pack them into the boat. Lift the stern and slip slide with it into the water followed by a quick straddle into the seat - there's a big cheer from the bank where the old folks are gathered. Awfully glad I didn't fall in with photo's and all being taken. Resolve to buy spiked shoes. A flock of ducks take off ahead of me but I'm too slow with the camera. Slightly worried about the hull but reckon the flagstones were pretty well lubricated with algae and I'd used lots of the Klepper polish followed up by 303 so now I'll find out if all the claims for these polishes are true. For the first kilometre nervously test the bottom of the kayak for water and continually look for takeout points near a path along the banks, but all's well. Its 3 kilometres to Epping road bridge and shortly afterwards pass what looks like an ancient power station, which appears to be feeding into the main grid via two rather light weight power cables. There are several fishermen along the bank and the occasional fish jumps out of the way. They must think the Klepper is a shark (dolphins have never been sighted in the river in living memory). Not for the first time I notice that fishermen on banks are pretty reticent whereas fishermen in boats in the harbour are much cheerier souls. Lesson one - even kayaks should obey the channel buoys! I'm halfway down the river and not taking too much notice of the buoys or speed limit signs (Its a fantasy of mine to be booked for speeding in a Klepper and in the four knot areas it might be achievable). Start to see reeds appearing and the next thing is I'm aground. Back off, take serious note of the buoy and go to its left. Seven kilometres from the weir Fig Tree bridge appears. There are no buoys but see reeds ahead. Move to port away from reeds and again go through. This must be elementary but it took me by surprise. There are some beautiful old houses and gardens on this part of the river so out comes the camera. After the bridge the river starts to enter into the harbour and two kilometres downstream I come to Greenwhich Wharf and the junction with the Parramatta river. The water gets slightly choppy and when two Jet Cat Ferries pass it gets very choppy. On past Balls Head reserve and en route I catch my first glimpse of the Sydney Harbour Bridge (Sometimes known as the coat hanger). Then across Berry Bay to the left of Blues Point reserve and through to McMahons Point wharf. This is a busy stretch of harbour and on the way to Taronga Zoo I have to cross 11 ferry lanes. I'm told the ferries stay 50 metres from the shore so in general when traversing the points I stay 10 or 20 metres from the shore. Any closer and the reflected wash would be unpleasant. In any case it gets a bit choppy with diffraction patterns near the points when ferries go by. I also don't cross bays at the points as this would take me close to some of the ferry lanes, so head into the bays for about 300 metres before crossing. Around from McMahons Point I cross Lavender bay to Luna Park, a well loved amusement park with a somewhat chequered history. It was shut down several years ago following a fire in a ghost train. Then for a while there was an attempt to develop low noise roller coaster rides. Not sure if it still operates but it looks deserted. For years a huge clowns face used to grin across the harbour at the Sydney Opera house, which is now clearly visible to port - more photo opportunities! I hug the shore past Luna Park and pass under the north side of the Sydney Harbour Bridge. It's a surprise. I'd been expecting rushing currents, turbulence and heaps of traffic but there's nary a soul around and the water is like a duck pond so lots of opportunity for photo's to prove the event! I arrive at Neutral Bay feeling very pleased having reached the Sydney Harbour Bridge before midday - then BANG - 21 times? - I can't believe my ears a cannon has just given me a 21 gun salute? - but it's the Queens birthday weekend and wasn't for me at all! On to Kirribili and head for Kurraba point, sighting on McAllum pool to avoid the ferries in Neutral bay. Arrive at Shell Cove beach. This is the planned lunch stop. I have to lift and drag the kayak part way out of the water using the water for support. There's no way I can lift it while its loaded and not prepared to struggle with wheels in the sea. The beach is rather bleak. It could look very pleasant with a bit of sun but there isn't any. This has to be a beach frequented by billionaires. No one else could afford to live there and access doesn't seem to be easy. Lunch is delectable. Its just water and sandwiches but I've had 5 star hotel meals that weren't as good. While I'm having lunch a rather nice looking billionaire's dog starts to take a keen interest in the kayak. I think he believes its a new kind of lamp post - throw a stone up the beach which he chases enthusiastically. 1:45 pm into the sea again and pass a couple on a yacht who comment that I seem to have everything - they may be referring to my deck compass which was fitted just for the hell of it - in fact I found myself using it regularly during the trip despite the fact that Sydney Harbour is full of landmarks that might make navigation almost intuitive to a Sydney sider After lunch its around Cremorne Point (Robertson's Point lighthouse), watching all the way for Jet Cat ferries which round the point simultaneously in pairs in both directions. Avoiding the ferries turns out to be no problem but I simultaneously have to negotiate two cruise vessels and a paddle boat one of which seems to want to come over and have a look - no real problems though. At 22km, on advice from a triathlete friend of mine, there's a planned enforced rest stop for half an hour before tackling Middle Head which may be a bit choppy as there was a storm last night. I stop at Clifton Gardens rather than Obelisk beach. Obelisk beach is for nudists and no one will have ready access to a mobile phone if I want to call a taxi. Clifton gardens is a very pleasant beach with lots of grass, a children's play ground and a jetty with fishermen but I'm anxious to move on having had a rest just three quarters of an hour earlier - nevertheless take the advice and stay for 30 minutes. 2km from Middle Head I can see the spray from the swell hitting the cliffs. Approaching the Head it seems OK at first but then starts to look a bit choppy. There's a choice between exiting at the nudist beach or going ahead - decide to go ahead. It starts to get very choppy. Looks totally impossible inside 300 metres of the cliffs. Plumes of water and spray are rising above the cliffs as 3 metre waves crash into it. Resolve to travel about midway between North Head, South Head and Middle Head, which means keeping a lookout for the Manly Ferry. At this point beginning to feel I'd made an error of judgment and wishing I'd cast modesty aside and beached in Obelisk bay. A particularly jagged section of cliff with a huge bite out of its side seems to express my feelings perfectly. Standing waves and refracted waves are 1.5 metres and the swell is 2.5 metres as near as I can judge. The Klepper is coping magnificently, all I have to do is keep paddling ahead and looking out. Although I don't really think I'll need them I wish I had some flares (The shop they were ordered from went out of business a week ago). If I turn over in this chop its going to require a fair bit of energy to self rescue. Very glad of the enforced rest at Clifton Gardens. A couple wave from a yacht passing by, which boosts my morale no end. Anyway somewhere ahead of all the waves and spray is calm water. I just can't see it. So just keep plugging away in anticipation. After about half an hour its over. I'm past Middle Head and the sea is calm with 2 meter swell rolling into the bay. A couple of surf skiers are training, one of them is in the water the other is explaining the use of protective strokes; they are totally engrossed. Keep reminding myself to be alert that just because its calm one shouldn't be complacent. But nothing happens and the Spit beach and coffee are 500m away. I start to relax - coffee and a chat at last. A loud hoot behind me and there's a whopping charter ferry asking me to move! First time I've seen one here before. He has right of way and my insurance won't stand the strain should I sink him, so I move aside. Marvellous!!! Its 3:30 pm and I'm 28 km as the fish swims from Lane Cove weir. Average speed about 5 knots I think. Stop at Spit for two large coffees, a chat and to book a taxi 2.5 hours ahead from Roseville Bridge boat ramp. The kayak shop proprietor reckoned it was a good trip and tells me of the time he used to do it in both directions for training for the Hawkesbury Marathon (100km for charity). Quite a few kayakers use this as a training run. He seems slightly curious that I should tackle Middle Head alone in this weather but delights in the idea that all I have to do is pack up the Klepper call a taxi and go home. 4:15 pm and a glorious run for the last 7 km to Roseville Bridge. The sinking sun casts a long reflection in front of me showing the way home in the settling dusk. Then I take my sun glasses off and realise it's the middle of the afternoon. A bit worried about landing at the boat ramp. Will it be a repeat of the launch at the weir and will pulling a loaded Klepper up a slippery ramp be harder than sliding it down! 5:00 pm, no problem with landing at the ramp. In fact its an absolute delight as I can unload and disassemble most of the load at the waters edge. Disassembly and packing takes about 40 minutes but now I have to get dressed for the taxi. Its dark. It takes 30 minutes for the sun to set in Sydney. But the ramp is floodlit and there are people fishing nearby. I move into the shadow of some trees and strip for changing. Loud cheers from the fishermen. My feet are in shadow but nothing else is! End of report *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List Submissions: paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net Subscriptions: paddlewise-request_at_lists.intelenet.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************Received on Sun Jun 13 1999 - 22:50:16 PDT
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