[Paddlewise] Trip Report - Lane Cove River to Roseville Bridge via Sydney Harb our Australia.(Long)

From: Peter Osman <PeterO_at_ambri.com.au>
Date: Mon, 14 Jun 1999 14:35:56 +1000
G'Day, 

Below is a trip report, which is a bit long, but hope you find it
interesting.

PeterO

	This describes a 35km trip by a somewhat inexperienced kayaker
through Sydney Harbour on Saturday 12th June 1999. At 8:15 I start from home
at Fiddens Wharf where the convicts of two centuries ago had a tree felling
operation and used Lane Cove River to float logs down to the harbour. Arrive
at Lane Cove River Park weir at 8:30 and start to set up the Klepper. By
9:15 the boat is fixed with all the trimmings including a deck compass which
I don't think I'll need but take anyway. At this point a bus of elderly folk
on a day trip arrives and while finishing the assembly I hear whispers
behind me: Woman "I don't know if I should ask him?" Friend: "Well I'm going
to any way". It turns out they want to know if my Klepper is a racing skiff.
What a compliment to start the day! A fellow nearby wants to know what I do
if it tips over and have I practiced in the water or only on dry land. He
points out that my sponge isn't really big enough, which is true, but on
seeing the electric pump honour is satisfied. (But I'll buy a bigger sponge
on Monday). Anyway the group appears to lose interest and I go back with
some difficulty to fitting wheels to the boat. For the first time in its
life its fully loaded and tips sideways at the slightest provocation. But I
get the hang of it, then move gingerly to the weir. Above the water there's
about two metres of algae covered flag stones - very slippery - take shoes
off - even worse - Oh for spiked running shoes! Ease the kayak a quarter
into the water; take off the wheels and pack them into the boat. Lift the
stern and slip slide with it into the water followed by a quick straddle
into the seat - there's a big cheer from the bank where the old folks are
gathered. Awfully glad I didn't fall in with photo's and all being taken.
Resolve to buy spiked shoes. A flock of ducks take off ahead of me but I'm
too slow with the camera. Slightly worried about the hull but reckon the
flagstones were pretty well lubricated with algae and I'd used lots of the
Klepper polish followed up by 303 so now I'll find out if all the claims for
these polishes are true. For the first kilometre nervously test the bottom
of the kayak for water and continually look for takeout points near a path
along the banks, but all's well.
	Its 3 kilometres to Epping road bridge and shortly afterwards pass
what looks like an ancient power station, which appears to be feeding into
the main grid via two rather light weight power cables. There are several
fishermen along the bank and the occasional fish jumps out of the way. They
must think the Klepper is a shark (dolphins have never been sighted in the
river in living memory). Not for the first time I notice that fishermen on
banks are pretty reticent whereas fishermen in boats in the harbour are much
cheerier souls.
	Lesson one - even kayaks should obey the channel buoys! I'm halfway
down the river and not taking too much notice of the buoys or speed limit
signs (Its a fantasy of mine to be booked for speeding in a Klepper and in
the four knot areas it might be achievable). Start to see reeds appearing
and the next thing is I'm aground. Back off, take serious note of the buoy
and go to its left. Seven kilometres from the weir Fig Tree bridge appears.
There are no buoys but see reeds ahead. Move to port away from reeds and
again go through. This must be elementary but it took me by surprise. There
are some beautiful old houses and gardens on this part of the river so out
comes the camera. After the bridge the river starts to enter into the
harbour and two kilometres downstream I come to Greenwhich Wharf and the
junction with the Parramatta river. The water gets slightly choppy and when
two Jet Cat Ferries pass it gets very choppy. On past Balls Head reserve and
en route I catch my first glimpse of the Sydney Harbour Bridge (Sometimes
known as the coat hanger). Then across Berry Bay to the left of Blues Point
reserve and through to McMahons Point wharf. This is a busy stretch of
harbour and on the way to Taronga Zoo I have to cross 11 ferry lanes. I'm
told the ferries stay 50 metres from the shore so in general when traversing
the points I stay 10 or 20 metres from the shore. Any closer and the
reflected wash would be unpleasant. In any case it gets a bit choppy with
diffraction patterns near the points when ferries go by. I also don't cross
bays at the points as this would take me close to some of the ferry lanes,
so head into the bays for about 300 metres before crossing.
	Around from McMahons Point I cross Lavender bay to Luna Park, a well
loved amusement park with a somewhat chequered history. It was shut down
several years ago following a fire in a ghost train. Then for a while there
was an attempt to develop low noise roller coaster rides. Not sure if it
still operates but it looks deserted. For years a huge clowns face used to
grin across the harbour at the Sydney Opera house, which is now clearly
visible to port - more photo opportunities! I hug the shore past Luna Park
and pass under the north side of the Sydney Harbour Bridge. It's a surprise.
I'd been expecting rushing currents, turbulence and heaps of traffic but
there's nary a soul around and the water is like a duck pond so lots of
opportunity for photo's to prove the event! I arrive at Neutral Bay feeling
very pleased having reached the Sydney Harbour Bridge before midday - then
BANG - 21 times? - I can't believe my ears a cannon has just given me a 21
gun salute? - but it's the Queens birthday weekend and wasn't for me at all!
	On to Kirribili and head for Kurraba point, sighting on McAllum pool
to avoid the ferries in Neutral bay. Arrive at Shell Cove beach. This is the
planned lunch stop. I have to lift and drag the kayak part way out of the
water using the water for support. There's no way I can lift it while its
loaded and not prepared to struggle with wheels in the sea. The beach is
rather bleak. It could look very pleasant with a bit of sun but there isn't
any. This has to be a beach frequented by billionaires. No one else could
afford to live there and access doesn't seem to be easy.  Lunch is
delectable. Its just water and sandwiches but I've had 5 star hotel meals
that weren't as good. While I'm having lunch a rather nice looking
billionaire's dog starts to take a keen interest in the kayak. I think he
believes its a new kind of lamp post - throw a stone up the beach which he
chases enthusiastically. 1:45 pm into the sea again and pass a couple on a
yacht who comment that I seem to have everything - they may be referring to
my deck compass which was fitted just for the hell of it - in fact I found
myself using it regularly during the trip despite the fact that Sydney
Harbour is full of landmarks that might make navigation almost intuitive to
a Sydney sider
	After lunch its around Cremorne Point (Robertson's Point
lighthouse), watching all the way for Jet Cat ferries which round the point
simultaneously in pairs in both directions. Avoiding the ferries turns out
to be no problem but I simultaneously have to negotiate two cruise vessels
and a paddle boat one of which seems to want to come over and have a look -
no real problems though. At 22km, on advice from a triathlete friend of
mine, there's a planned enforced rest stop for half an hour before tackling
Middle Head which may be a bit choppy as there was a storm last night. I
stop at Clifton Gardens rather than Obelisk beach. Obelisk beach is for
nudists and no one will have ready access to a mobile phone if I want to
call a taxi. Clifton gardens is a very pleasant beach with lots of grass, a
children's play ground and a jetty with fishermen but I'm anxious to move on
having had a rest just three quarters of an hour earlier - nevertheless take
the advice and stay for 30 minutes.
	2km from Middle Head I can see the spray from the swell hitting the
cliffs.  Approaching the Head it seems OK at first but then starts to look a
bit choppy. There's a choice between exiting at the nudist beach or going
ahead - decide to go ahead. It starts to get very choppy. Looks totally
impossible inside 300 metres of the cliffs. Plumes of water and spray are
rising above the cliffs as 3 metre waves crash into it. Resolve to travel
about midway between North Head, South Head and Middle Head, which means
keeping a lookout for the Manly Ferry. At this point beginning to feel I'd
made an error of judgment and wishing I'd cast modesty aside and beached in
Obelisk bay. A particularly jagged section of cliff with a huge bite out of
its side seems to express my feelings perfectly. Standing waves and
refracted waves are 1.5 metres and the swell is 2.5 metres as near as I can
judge. The Klepper is coping magnificently, all I have to do is keep
paddling ahead and looking out. Although I don't really think I'll need them
I wish I had some flares (The shop they were ordered from went out of
business a week ago). If I turn over in this chop its going to require a
fair bit of energy to self rescue. Very glad of the enforced rest at Clifton
Gardens. A couple wave from a yacht passing by, which boosts my morale no
end. Anyway somewhere ahead of all the waves and spray is calm water. I just
can't see it. So just keep plugging away in anticipation. 
	After about half an hour its over. I'm past Middle Head and the sea
is calm with 2 meter swell rolling into the bay. A couple of surf skiers are
training, one of them is in the water the other is explaining the use of
protective strokes; they are totally engrossed. Keep reminding myself to be
alert that just because its calm one shouldn't be complacent. But nothing
happens and the Spit beach and coffee are 500m away. I start to relax -
coffee and a chat at last. A loud hoot behind me and there's a whopping
charter ferry asking me to move! First time I've seen one here before. He
has right of way and my insurance won't stand the strain should I sink him,
so I move aside.
	Marvellous!!! Its 3:30 pm and I'm 28 km as the fish swims from Lane
Cove weir. Average speed about 5 knots I think. Stop at Spit for two large
coffees, a chat and to book a taxi 2.5 hours ahead from Roseville Bridge
boat ramp. The kayak shop proprietor reckoned it was a good trip and tells
me of the time he used to do it in both directions for training for the
Hawkesbury Marathon (100km for charity). Quite a few kayakers use this as a
training run. He seems slightly curious that I should tackle Middle Head
alone in this weather but delights in the idea that all I have to do is pack
up the Klepper call a taxi and go home.
	4:15 pm and a glorious run for the last 7 km to Roseville Bridge.
The sinking sun casts a long reflection in front of me showing the way home
in the settling dusk. Then I take my sun glasses off and realise it's the
middle of the afternoon. A bit worried about landing at the boat ramp. Will
it be a repeat of the launch at the weir and will pulling a loaded Klepper
up a slippery ramp be harder than sliding it down! 5:00 pm, no problem with
landing at the ramp. In fact its an absolute delight as I can unload and
disassemble most of the load at the waters edge. Disassembly and packing
takes about 40 minutes but now I have to get dressed for the taxi. Its dark.
It takes 30 minutes for the sun to set in Sydney. But the ramp is floodlit
and there are people fishing nearby. I move into the shadow of some trees
and strip for changing. Loud cheers from the fishermen. My feet are in
shadow but nothing else is!

End of report


***************************************************************************
PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List
Submissions:     paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net
Subscriptions:   paddlewise-request_at_lists.intelenet.net
Website:         http://www.paddlewise.net/
***************************************************************************
Received on Sun Jun 13 1999 - 22:50:16 PDT

This archive was generated by hypermail 2.4.0 : Thu Aug 21 2025 - 16:30:09 PDT