Re: [Paddlewise] Feathered v Unfeathered paddles

Always push with your wrist in a line between the paddle shaft and your
elbow (straight wrist) and with your hand open enough so your wrist doesn't
bend side to side as it follows the paddle shaft through its arc (let the
paddle pivot in your hand). Done right it should be possible to paddle with
your wrists in a cast. The straight punch with a straight wrist is more
powerful than a bent wrist push as well. The Essential Kayaker says
repeatedly how important it is to always keep a firm unmoving grip on the
shaft with your control hand. Ignore that advice, it is a prescription for
wrist problems and is totally unnecessary.
45 to 60 degrees is perfect in calm winds but go to at least 70 degrees or
you will find it hell to paddle into an extreme wind. blade on one side
being lifted up and on the other side being forced downward. It is
effortless to let the paddle rotate the few degrees more to get to 75 or 80
degrees (due to the rotating motion already imparted on the shaft by lifting
the next pushing hand from the elbow).

It is dangerous for most paddlers to switch feathers as it may create
confusion if you need a sudden reactive brace.
George Gronseth and I have had this feathered vs. unfeathered argument for
years and all the issues can easily be made into non-issues with a little
technique, except the issue of winds affecting the paddle blade in the air.
As far as head winds go we haven't figured out the percent of additional
drag with an unfeathered paddle but I think it feels pretty significant and
George says it feel that way but is actually quite small. Anybody want to
quantify this?
the unfeathered advocates often point out that a sidewind can get under a
blade and capsize a paddler. could happen but one quickly learns to use a
low stroke in extreme winds. A sudden high brace required of an unfeathered
paddler being knocked over by a gust might mean they would forget to keep
the paddle real low for the brace and expose the paddle face to the side
wind. I'd rate sidewinds a draw. winds from behind will have to be very
strong before the push helps an unfeathered paddler because of boat and
paddle blade speed (est. about 2.5 times boat speed)
Matt Broze
http://www.marinerkayaks.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Sandykayak_at_aol.com <Sandykayak_at_aol.com>
To: timothy.g.mattson_at_intel.com <timothy.g.mattson_at_intel.com>;
paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net <paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net>
Date: Wednesday, August 11, 1999 12:05 PM
Subject: Re: [Paddlewise] Feathered v Unfeathered paddles


>In a message dated 8/11/99 12:45:52 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
>timothy.g.mattson_at_intel.com writes:
>
><< And as someone brings up each time we get into this discussion, with
proper
> technique, you do not "cock the wrist" with each stroke on the
> "non-control-hand" side.  I know, many of the books out there tell you to
do
> so, but if you watch a really good paddler who uses a feathered paddle,
> you'll see that during a forwawrd stroke, the wrist is in a straight line
> with the fore-arm.  Adjustments are made in the shoulder and elbow to
> properly orient the blade. >>
>
>Oh, Oh.  You don't??? Now I'll have to print this and take the itty-bitty
>piece of paper on the water with me and see how I do it vs what you are
>suggesting.  I'm 99.9% sure that I "rotate" my wrist.   Does this increase
>the risk of carpal tunnel syndrome which, considering I'm a writer and at
the
>PC almost all day, looks as if I'll be lucky to escape?
>
>Sandy Kramer
>Miami
>
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