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From: <Sandykayak_at_aol.com>
subject: [Paddlewise] Dry Tortugas Trip Report
Date: Fri, 6 Aug 1999 16:03:41 EDT
Here it is 

"NO DRINKIN' 'N DRAGGIN'"


A Dry Tortugas Maxim





By Sandy Kramer





As far as I'm concerned, all trips are educational in one way or another and,
of course, what you learn can be very useful, not very useful, or just plain
useless.  During our recent (we learned, for example, that Memorial Day
Weekend is not a very good time to go) trip to Fort Jefferson in the Dry
Tortugas we learned that it is not a smart thing to drink while you're
dragging, but I'll explain that later.





First, I'll pass on a few logistics.  This was my fourth trip in five years
and is on my annual trip wish list.  Because of the inevitable hassles (the
"Dry" refers to the lack of fresh water) of packing for a trip that entails a
3 ½ hour drive to Key West with an overnight stay to board the outgoing vessel
between 7:00 and 7:30 a.m. the next day, and having to be self-sufficient, it
is not, in my opinion, worth going for less than three days.  





 We decided to take the Friday off so we could stop for lunch on the way,
wander around Duval Street, load the boats the night before, see the sunset
from Mallory Square, have dinner in town, and still get an early night's rest.
Monday was a holiday and we knew the drive home would be murderous, so we took
Tuesday off work as well.  In all, we had five days.  Just right, as it turned
out.   





There were only three of us.  Catherine Noble and I rode down with Ken
Zinniger.  His kayak was on the roof of his van and our two little ones were
inside.  It's a big van and we had plenty of space.  I finally met someone who
takes more gear than I do – and it's a guy!  I usually go around feeling
apologetic because of all the stuff I bring.  Ken says he is built for
comfort, not speed.  Not only does he take care of his own comforts, but he is
very generous with what he calls his "sissy drinks" and we cheerfully dug into
his Tequizas and Bacardi Breezers.





There is no such thing as a cheap night in Key West.  In the past I have
stayed at the KOA campground on Sugarloaf Key (at Mile Marker (MM) 20;
305-664-4922; main KOA reservation number is 800-KOA-7730) but it's about $40
and then you have the mad rush in the morning to get to the dock.  Closer, on
MM 5, is Boyd's Campground on Stock Island with prices for two ranging from
$31 to $37.  Their Website can be accessed through the Key West menu at
www.gocampingamerica.com.  This is a very useful Website for other trips.
Mile Markers indicate the number of miles north of Key West's southernmost
point.





Three years ago I stayed in the Key West Hostel (305-296-5719;
www.keyshostel_at_aol.com).


They put us in the co-ed dorm by mistake, but that was an interesting
experience.  The hostel itself was fine, but the air conditioner wasn't
cooling properly at the time.  Rates are $17-20 including tax.  Several rooms
have been updated, but some are still pending.  They also have a motel with
prices that range from $50 to 100 for two people depending on season,
holidays, and special events.





This year I called the El Rancho Motel (305-294-8700; www.elranchokeywest.com)
and the room was going to be about $120 for three people.  We decided to try
Jabour's Trailer Court, (223 Elizabeth Street; 305-294-5723; www.kwcamp.com)
and that was $40 for two people.  With tax it cost $53 for three of us.  At
$18 a head, this was very reasonable.  It's more like a parking lot than a
campground, but it was great.  The office staff were friendly, the bathrooms
clean, and we were just a couple of blocks north of Duval Street and close to
the docks.





Fort Jefferson National Park is located nearly 70 miles west of Key West.  You
can get detailed information from the National Park Service Website at
www.nps.gov under "Visit Your Parks."


Excluding seaplanes and private boats, the two main means of making the
crossing are via the Dry Tortugas National Park Ferry (240 Margaret Street;
toll-free 877-327-8228; 305-294-7009; www.yankeefleet.com), and the Sunny Days
catamaran service (end of Elizabeth and Greene Streets; 305-296-5556;
www.sunnydayskeywest.com; there's a $5.00 coupon at
www.drytortugas.com/coupon.htm).  





Please do your own checking and make your own decisions.  I have found the
staff at both to be friendly, the prices about the same ($105/109 round trip
for campers which includes breakfast, lunch, and a guided tour of the Fort,
plus $35 for a kayak).  There is a $3.00 per person per night charge to camp,
so have small bills to put in the envelope at the Fort.  I was glad we had
taken plastic boats because they were sort of tossed into a rear compartment;
the good news was that it will hold three to four boats, depending on size.





The Yankee has a new twin hull vessel which is larger than the Sunny Days cat,
but we watched as the Sunny Days caught up with and overtook us.  So, if
you're into speed, take the smaller cat. Sunny Days ask that you try and limit
yourself to 40 lbs. of gear per person, but realize that this is difficult,
especially because of the water you have to transport.  Their new boat does
not have kayak racks, but they did transport a fiberglass boat on the top.  I
opted for the Yankee because you used to be able to sneak into an air
conditioned cabin and have a snooze.  The catamarans do not afford this
luxury.  Both companies will be happy to send you their color brochures.
Crossing time is approximately 2 ¼ to 2 ½ hours.





Once we arrived, there was a mad rush to grab a pushcart to load the gear
(there are also cargo carts at the dock in Key West).  That was the last
rushing we did for four days.  Snorkeling around the Fort is delightful;
unfortunately we weren't able to snorkel off Loggerhead Key.  Too far for us
to cross in our small kayaks and, frankly, I think I'd be scared in a larger
kayak.  I'm a real wuss!  





We had a lot of fun just paddling around the Fort which is on Garden Key and
also half-way around Bush Key where the Sooty Terns nest.  We were too late in
the year to see the migratory birds, but the Magnificent Frigate Birds were
glorious to watch as they soared above us.  There is a nice sandy beach,
crystalline turquoise water, plenty of fresh air, and, best of all, no
mosquitoes because there is no standing fresh water for them to breed in.  I
always take a hammock and tend to spend a lot of time "hanging out."





The park rangers are fun to talk to, there is a naturalist who organizes
events (there was a historical slide show talk while we were there), and an
air conditioned gift shop with a good selection of books, maps, post cards,
and some videotapes.  The 12-minute Dry Tortugas video is a wonderful souvenir
of this very special place.





The weather was wonderful, despite a storm on our last night.  The other
members of my party got pretty soaked (Catherine was seen bailing out her tent
the next day) and were ready to abandon their swaying nylon roofs and head for
the safety of the Fort, but managed to stay put.  I had 16" stakes and
Slumberjack's Raptor one person tent that is aerodynamically shaped with a
fitted fly/storm windows, so there was nothing for the wind to tear off.
There was a little bit of water on the floor, probably due to poor seam
sealing on my part.





Exploring the Fort, swimming, snorkeling, and paddling (you must take your own
boats) are the main activities.  The rest of the time can be spent snoozing,
reading, and chatting with people from all over the world.  One of the
highlights is the cultural exchange with some of the local shrimpers who come
ashore to cook barbecues and, sometimes, camp on land.





Basically, they are happy to share their catch with you if you share some of
your supplies with them.  Beer drinking is one of their favorite activities.
The first day we pigged out on peel 'n eat shrimp for appetizers and then a
paella for the main course.  We were even luckier on the second day when two
couples decided to camp on shore and were having a cook-out close to our
campsite.  They were real friendly folk and put on an incredible feast.  





A camper who was leaving the following day had given them some steak and
bacon.  I had my first try of huge shrimp, wrapped in bacon, and grilled over
a charcoal fire.  To die for!  We sat with them and listened to their stories
about a shrimper's life at sea and on land.  We also learned that it is not
smart to drink when you're dragging for shrimp (which they do at night),
hence: NO DRINKIN' 'N  DRAGGIN' became our slogan for this trip.






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