Re: [Paddlewise] Feathercraft K-Light Cockpit Coaming

From: <rdiaz_at_ix.netcom.com>
Date: Wed, 08 Sep 1999 23:23:16 -0700
Peter W wrote:
> 
> On Thu, 9 Sep 1999, David Kosofsky wrote:
> 
> > I've been told, and I believe that Feathercraft's literature mentions that
> > the cockpit coaming is the most complex and difficult component to
> > manufacture. Certainly it takes a great deal of strain, whether during
> > portages, re-entries after wet-exits, or just the ordinary flexing
> > associated with wave action.
> 
> > is their any experienced-based wisdom out there regarding ways to
> > minimize the strain placed on that component?
> 
> It was suggested to me that when entering or exiting the boat, one should
> push off the gunwale bars, not the coaming (or perhaps plant your hands on
> the deck between the coaming and gunwales). Naturally I assume it's a good
> idea to put no more weight on the deck than is needed, e.g. also put
> weight on the dock, on the K-Light's floor, etc.
> 
> -Peter
> 

A couple of points regarding the Feathercraft coamings:

1. They are indeed complex and costly for the company to have made
(they, for example, make up a sizable percentage of the cost of the
K-Light, a figure that would surprise you).  At one point early on,
Feathercraft had to reject a significant number of those that it got
from its supplier because of cracks.  I don't knowwhat its supplier
situation is now, but I do know that Feathercraft inspects everyone they
get very carefully.

2.  The current coaming being used is a lot tougher than the earlier
one. You can tell if you have an early one as opposed to a newer one by
the surface.  The older ones are shiny black; the newer ones matte
black.  The change was made just within the last two years.

3.  You need to protect the coaming in transit.  The easiest way that I
know and which I recommended in an article awhile ago in my newsletter
is to run pipe insulation tubing around its entire circumferance when
ever you are traveling where the bag will be handled by others such as
on airlines.  Pipe insulation, available at hardware stores and Home
Depot type superstores, will go a long way to protecting the most
fragile part of the coaming, its outer sharp edge (also a week point in
fiberglass composite hardshells I may add),  Look for the type of pipe
insulation with a longitudinal slit along one side, which is meant to
ease wrapping pipe with it and works the same to run around the outside
of the coaming.  Avoid the kind that has glue strips in that slit as it
will just gum up on your coaming.  Be careful how you place the coaming
in the bag; keep it as flat as possible so it isn't being bent over some
frame parts in the bag.

4.  As Peter W. rightly points out, avoid putting your weight on the
coaming when getting in and out of your boat, especially the K-Light. 
Unlike its bigger sisters, the K-Light's coaming is not clamped down at
it fore and aft points, and this can stress it more than in the other
models.  But regardless, avoid placing your hands on the coaming for
support in any of the models (I would suggest the same caution with any
coaming on any folding kayak although some models could take a gorilla
hopping up and down on it).  Instead place your hands on the gunwale
bars as close to the crossrib in the rear of the cockpit which is a
particularly strong part of the boat.  You certainly can put weight on
the coaming...they are not eggshell fragile; but why take a chance when
there is a more solid support spot just next to where you might be
tempted to place weight on the coaming.

ralph diaz 
-- 
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Ralph Diaz . . . Folding Kayaker newsletter
PO Box 0754, New York, NY 10024
Tel: 212-724-5069; E-mail: rdiaz_at_ix.netcom.com
"Where's your sea kayak?"----"It's in the bag."
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Received on Wed Sep 08 1999 - 20:47:04 PDT

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