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From: Joanne M Turner <kayakskc_at_earthlink.net>
subject: Re: [Paddlewise] Kayaking in Hong Kong
Date: Thu, 02 Sep 1999 18:32:00 -0700
Long ago (and very far away) I paddled for a few weeks out of Hong 
Kong. There are about a dozen (I forget exactly) islands between there 
and Macao, and the great Hainan Island not too far away by train. I 
took a folding Feathercraft K1 and had a wonderful, challenging and 
rewarding time.

Camping was easy on almost all of the islands. No-one could read the 
Chineese character flash cards I had an educated HK man draw for me 
(May I sleep here?  Where can I get water? Is this water safe to 
drink? I need medical attention - can you assist me? etc. etc.). I saw 
a giant sea monster sort of like the Loch Ness monster: several 
undulating humps, about 50' long. It turned out to be four dolphins in 
a row, perfectly synchronized. I saw the "edge of the earth" since the 
southern-most island has nothing except water between it and 
Australia. I found burried treasure while sifting my toes under the 
sand on my first island camping beach - an ancient abacus and weighing 
stick. The marvelous things which happened on that trip have filled 
several articles and many slide shows. But you get the idea.

What was tough? I could get NO local knowledge because it was 
impossible to communicate with anyone who was close to the sea, 
fishermen and the like. I developed what knowledge I could by four 
days of observations before putting my kayak in the water.  To cross 
to the islands one must traverse hydrofoil lines, between and among 
the islands which reduce sight distances. Hydrofoils go at 55 knots, 
and they close the distance as they pass each other in opposing 
directions at 110 knots. There were over 40 passings during daylight 
hours while I was there....  Dealing with the local authories was 
impossible. They could not grant me permission to do any paddling 
either in HK or in China (two different countries when I paddled 
there. But, after much "debate" I learned that they also could not 
deny me permission. After all, they had no laws or precedents! 

These debate stories could fill an hour of story telling. Way out to 
sea, at about noon one fine day, all by myself, this was the 
conversation... 
Chineese Coast Guard: "Where is your motor?"   Joanne:"I have a 
paddle." CGC: Where are you going? J: To the island named xxxxx in 
that direction. CGC: No, that is impossible- it is too far! (There 
happened to be no closer land so where else might I be heading?) CGC: 
Where have you come from? J: The island named yyyyyy in that 
direction. CGC: No, that is impossible, it is too far! (No closer 
land, again). CGC: Where is your passport? J: In the back of my kayak. 
CGC: Will you show it to us? J: Certainly - just hoist my kayak upon 
your ship and I'll unpack it right away (one never says the "no" word 
in Asian countries).    And, finally after a half an hour of this...   
J: May I have permission to proceed? CGC: No, we can not give you 
permission. J: I need to be on my way because the tide will soon turn 
and the current will be against me so I will never make it to the 
island xxxxx. CGC: Well, we can not give you permission and you will 
not make it there anyway because it is too far.   J: (finally, after 
several rounds) Will you deny me permission? CGC: No, we can not deny 
you permission.   J: Well, then I will be on my way now. CGC: We will 
only allow you to pass if we are your escort. You will be crossing the 
hydrofoil lines and it is very dangerous. J: Certainly, let's go then.     
And off we went, at four knots, with them yelling at three hydrofoils 
over their loud speaker system to stop them all in their paths. Of 
course I could not understand the verbal salvos passed among them all, 
but I certainly could tell that these on-time hydrofoil captains were 
very unhappy with being stopped so some tiny red kayak could slowly 
pass.-- 

So, to answer the original question, I have no idea whether there 
might be a kayak store or instruction there, but I would suggest your 
friend go to the Dragon Boat Association on the back waters of Tai-O 
village on Lantau island and seek assistance from the club members 
there. They were most hospitable to me (but that's another story) and 
did have some olympic style K1 kayaks in addition to their dragon 
boats. They will know what ever is knowable about kayaking locally.

Joanne Turner

Southwind Kayak Center, Inc.
17855 Sky Park Circle #A, Irvine, CA 92614  U.S.A.
949-261-0200 or 800-SOUTHWIND (800-768-8494)
info_at_southwindkayaks.com  
doug_at_southwindkayaks.com     joanne_at_southwindkayaks.com
http://www.southwindkayaks.com


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