[Paddlewise] Boat Construction

The recent thread(s) regarding boat durability, etc, have once again proven
that there are no ultimate conclusions to the boat construction methodology
debate. I would like to shoot some more "anecdotal" ammunition at the
elusive target, if you all aren't worn out yet:

1. The quality of the finished boat, both as it relates to visual appeal
and more importantly strength issues, has much more to do with the
individual (or builder-team). A "good" fiberglass worker can get fiberglass
to "wet-out" at just the right amount of saturation, but he/she/they must
be _good_ at what they do, really good.

2. A ill-experienced vacuum bagger can be responsible for some awful work.
Some kayak manufactures pay their people just above minimum wage, and you
just don't get good people for that kind of money. So too for hand-laid.

3. I find gelcoat does not bond as well to vacuumed bagged kayaks _if the
gelcoat is put on thick_. The British hand-built kayaks are capable of
retaining the thicker layers, allowing for more abrasion wear potential.
However, some Euopeans take it to extremes.

4. The higher resin content of non-vacuumed fiberglass does wear a bit
better once the gelcoat is breached, though at that point, incipient
problems should be dealt with.

5. I have witnesses catastrophic failure of a vacuumed bagged hull - not a
good thing. Never seen this with a Brit heavy - just extra chiropractor
visits :-)

6. All the guides/instructors that I know in Souther BC, who work with or
for stores/manufactures and always custom order their boats (at reduced
costs) usually ask for extra-heavier lay-ups. What does that tell you about
their faith in the standard lay-up vacuumed bagged kayak?

7. There is a famous picture of a standard duty, vacuumed bagged kayak
exiting west coast surf that appears in national advertising. I know the
guy who was involved with some of these shoots. The kayak flexed and the
back deck/coaming broke - and the add reads "quality". For my money, you
can't beat a stiff, strong kayak, including the deck. 

8. There are ways to stiffen up a kayak with high tech solutions that
reduce weight. Unfortunately, the British kayak manufacturing industry is a
"cottage" based one, and so far, has stayed mostly with tried and true (to
them). P&H are the most progressive, though Valley Canoe remain high for
overall consistency. 

9. All the above guides/instructors I know, also usually order the extra
outside seams, especially over the extruded plastic seam. Even then, I have
seen outside seam failure concurrent with inside seam failure. This can be
a bit catastrophic in the middle of a gale during a long crossing. For my
money, an extra outside seam of two layars done with _epoxy resin_ is the
only way to go. There is some debate in this area of seams, currently, as
evidenced with one of the Australian clubs who deal more exclusively with
rough water issues.

10. Kayaks are relatively small vessels, but don't underestimate the
stresses faced. A fully loaded kayak undergoes incredible flexing motion.
Next time your kayak is fully loaded, have two people pick the kayak up by
the ends. As it is slowly lifted by said hardy individuals, look closely at
the alignment between stern and bow. Whoa, there's a ton of flexing going
on. Now, think about adding your weight in too, throw in some ruff, choppy
seas, and then tell me stiff isn't important. (Baidarkas, folders, and
plastic not withstanding).

PS For your information, I saved the recent boat durability thread for
discussion with SK mag (no names retained, concepts only to be related
outside of this list). The word count on the file is over 6,000. Only on
Paddlewise! Make sure, if you are able, to paddle as much or more than you
post!!

BC'in Ya
Doug Lloyd (who may pontificate, but needs to get out more, too)   
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