Re: [Paddlewise] Plastic Bulkheads

From: Michael Daly <michaeldaly_at_home.com>
Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2000 21:54:47 -0500
Erik Sprenne wrote:

> If you choose to remove the plastic bulkhead, you MUST be much more careful
> about doing a *good* fiberglassing job, which may be difficult given the
> location of the bulkhead, and the need for you to worm your upper body into
> the kayak in a very awkward position - while holding all your fiberglassing
> supplies.

Actually, it isn't that difficult to get in there.  The forward hatch allows some
work to be done from that position.  To get in through the cockpit, I suspended
my kayak above the ground, cockpit facing down.  I could stand up inside the
cockpit and reach in to the bulkhead position.  I used a vacuum cleaner to suck
out the air and lots of lights on the outside of the hull for illumination (it's pretty
translucent with white gel coat).  It was suspended over a stairwell, so I had a
couple of stair positions to choose from depending on what I was doing.  A high
step let me reach well into the kayak, while the lower one let me work standing
straighter.

I also was able to stand the kayak on its stern in the stairwell.  This allowed me to
get in through the forward hatch with the bulkhead horizontal.  I installed the
bulkhead from the cockpit side, with a broad strip of fiberglass as a fillet, then
stood the kayak on end to do the hatch side.  I filled in the gap between the
bulkhead and hull/deck with thickened epoxy and didn't need to worry about it
running.  Another wide band of fiberglass finished it.

Putting the kayak in a horizontal, inverted position also made installing the shelf
a piece of cake.

I haven't had any problems with deformation on the hull/deck, nor water leaking.
The wood looks dry by inspection through the fiberglass.

Mike

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Received on Wed Jan 19 2000 - 18:55:49 PST

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