Jack wrote: > Most hardware store contact cements will work, Joe. > The CLC folks recommend the stuff you can get at a Napa or > other serious automotive supply house --- especially the contact > cement that they sell for installing or repairing weather stripping. > Apparently they're all similar enough to be interchangeable for > our kayaking applications. > DON'T buy a water-based contact cement. In an attempt to be more environmentally sound, I purchased a water-based product from Sears to glue kneepads in a solo open boat that we bought for my wife. The water based contact cement just doesn't stick! (it stuck OK to the foam, but peeled up from the inside of the FG canoe, and the two layers also didn't stick together) I've used Weldwood contact cement for many years, and am pleased with its performance. Work with it outside if you can, as it is a solvent-based product. When gluing foam pads (especially) or minicell (to a lesser degree), apply more than 2 coats of the cement before assembling whatever it is you are gluing. The first one or two coats of the contact cement on a foamed product have a tendency to soak into the voids in the foamed product. (the black foam that I use for kneepads has one smooth side, and the other has open cell structure) It is best to add enough coats, letting them almost dry to a non-tacky state before adding the next) to fill the voids in order to get the best possible - and longest lasting - adhesion. Starting with clean surfaces also helps. Regards, Erik Sprenne *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - All postings copyright the author and not to be reproduced outside PaddleWise without author's permission Submissions: paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net Subscriptions: paddlewise-request_at_lists.intelenet.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************Received on Sat Jan 29 2000 - 06:48:44 PST
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