Some last thoughts on wooden boat building: Someone asked about "stress risers" near solid bulkheads. This can be a problem. I will probably use two layers of 6oz cloth on my home built kayak, to help with that issue (give more strength near the bulkhead). I have the same problem with stress risers in my factory glass boat. I finally went to a full inside and outside keel. I can run right over a small log in the water with nary a miss of a paddle stroke, and no more stress riser problems with the hull and bulkhead. That's my "heavy-handed" engineering solution. Yes, I can now use my Nordkapp as a battering ram if I need to break down a cabin door in an emergency along the coast :-) As far as deck strength and stiffness, you can add 1.5" battens under the deck - maybe two in the cockpit and one 4" one behind the seat in the aft compartment where the paddler tends to sit on the deck before entering the cockpit. Someone else disagreed with me on pre coating and letting epoxy cure past green-cured for subsequent coats. I did not mean to suggest that I would do this to the point where the epoxy had cured - only just enough to smooth the nibs n' fuzz without clogging sandpaper. I for one am going out tomorrow and buying Nick's book. BC'in Ya Doug Lloyd *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - All postings copyright the author and not to be reproduced outside PaddleWise without author's permission Submissions: paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net Subscriptions: paddlewise-request_at_lists.intelenet.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
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