Robert Cline wrote: > Erik Sprenne wrote: > > > > Acetone will solubilize *uncured* epoxy resin (but it should > > never be used to remove uncured epoxy from one's hands, > > as it will dissolve the epoxy _into_ the skin). > > Uh Oh... > > Unfortunately, that's exactly what I did. > > Thanks for the advice. Uh.. What's the rest of the bad news? > If you do get epoxy on your skin, the best way to get it off is to use a waterless skin cleaner (e.g. "Goop" Hand Cleaner), followed by thorough washing with soap and water. Epoxy resin is a skin sensitizer. If you didn't break out in a rash after using acetone to remove the epoxy from your hands, chances are that you are not particularly sensitive to epoxy resin. Some people are just extremely sensitive to the resin, and others are not. According to Charlie Walbridge's "Boat Builder's Manual", those most at risk to epoxy sensitization are: a) those with light complexions and sensitive skin b) those with a history of allergies c) those with a history of asthma d) those who work with epoxies frequently This last point reminds us that even people who aren't particularly sensitive to epoxy can develop greater sensitivity over time. If you didn't get a rash, all is well and good - *this time*. Keep up the same behavior, and you probably will develop epoxy sensitivity. Also consider that most epoxy hardeners are more acutely toxic than are the epoxy resins, and care should be taken to avoid skin contact with the hardeners as well. But once the epoxy and hardener are mixed in the proper ratios and allowed to fully cure, the epoxy then becomes a very inert substance which has no effect at all on bare skin. The key to working with epoxies is to do *everything* you can to avoid skin contact. Buy disposable latex/surgical gloves, and wear them religiously when working with epoxy. If the gloves get 'wet' with epoxy, change into a fresh pair rather than contaminating every surface you touch with 'wet' epoxy resin. Another option (though messy) is to use barrier cremes on exposed skin. Wear old clothing that covers all bare skin, but still do your best to minimize contact. And if your clothing gets wet with moderate amounts of epoxy, change it (and use the waterless hand cleaner to clean off the epoxy from your clothes before it cures). When I worked frequently with epoxy (as the fiberglass repair guru for the local AYH fleet of Rhodes 19 sailboats), I – and everyone who helped - wore one of those white disposable tyvek jump suits. Also - don't forget to wear eye protection. It's also good to minimize the breathing of epoxy fumes. Work outside whenever you can, provide ventilation when you can't, and – for the best protection - use a properly-fitting respirator equipped with an organic vapor cartridge. Working with epoxy resin is 95% preparation. If you're sure that all of your supplies and workpieces are ready and at hand before mixing the resin and hardener, then it's easier to concentrate on the job and about minimizing contact with the epoxy. If you've just mixed up a batch of epoxy, and suddenly realize that something is not prepped or a critical tool is missing, it's all too easy to become frantic and get careless. Also take precautions if you must sand your repair after it cures. This is where the respirator equipped with a particulate cartridge is almost a necessity. The respirator is much better than a dust mask which is better than nothing. You don't want to be breathing epoxy dust – especially if the epoxy is not completely cured, and it takes up to several weeks to *fully* cure. Fiberglass dust is also very itchy, and the tyvek jump suit taped at the wrists and ankles does a great job at minimizing dust exposure in general, and fiberglass itch in particular. A hooded tyvek suit is even better. Even though its focus is whitewater boat building, Walbridge's "Boat Builder's Manual" contains a wealth of information on the *how to's* of fiberglass construction. There's also lots of information on the Web: Gougeon epoxy safety information is located at: http://www.concentric.net/~westsys/safety/safety.shtml The Gougeon Epoxy technical manual is located at: http://www.concentric.net/~westsys/technical/user_man.shtml See http://www.systemthree.com/ for the System Three home page, and http://www.systemthree.com/safety.htm for MSDS sheets for System Three products http://www.boatinglinks.com/lists/liststuf.asp?WPSid=555 is a whole page of epoxy-related links (you may have to scroll down to 'Maintenance', and then click on 'Fiberglass, Epoxy' to see the links) Regards, Erik Sprenne at the southern end of Lake Michigan *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - All postings copyright the author and not to be reproduced outside PaddleWise without author's permission Submissions: paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net Subscriptions: paddlewise-request_at_lists.intelenet.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
Erik Sprenne wrote: > The key to working with epoxies is to do *everything* you can to avoid skin > contact. Buy disposable latex/surgical gloves, and wear them religiously > when working with epoxy. If the gloves get 'wet' with epoxy, change into a > fresh pair rather than contaminating every surface you touch with 'wet' > epoxy resin. Some folks wear several pairs of latex gloves over their hands. That way, when one pair is done, you just peel it off and keep working. Mike *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - All postings copyright the author and not to be reproduced outside PaddleWise without author's permission Submissions: paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net Subscriptions: paddlewise-request_at_lists.intelenet.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
This archive was generated by hypermail 2.4.0 : Thu Aug 21 2025 - 16:33:09 PDT