Re: [Paddlewise] Paddle Finish

Decks Olje uses Penetrol which saturates and deeply penetrates the wood.
Unfortunately the product has poor abrasion resistance and I would not
recommend it for finishing a paddle.

I see nothing wrong with using water to raise the grain of the wood.  It's
frequently done by professional finishing people.  Just don't go overboard
with the water and give the wood plenty of time to dry.

I do not believe that ANY penetrating product will give you long lasting
protection.  The best approach is to use one of the newer Poly Urethane
varnishes made by Interlux/Pettit etc and finish the paddle in accordance
with the directions on the can.  I finished the tiller on my sailboat with
the Interlux product and it looked as good in the third year as when I first
did it.

Richard Smith
----- Original Message -----
From: Mike McNally <mmcnally3_at_PRODIGY.NET>
To: Paddlewise <paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net>
Sent: Wednesday, March 22, 2000 1:03 PM
Subject: Re: [Paddlewise] Paddle Finish


> If your paddle is screaming, "gimme oil!" then what ever fluid contacts
> it is going to suck down in deep.  To apply water to achieve grain
> raising and then follow with a penetrating resin (homemade or otherwise)
> would seal in the bad stuff.  It is advised that you use the thinner
> that works with your finishing product for grain raising as it will
> blend with and percolate out of the coat(s) to follow (if memory serves
> me).
>
> A flood product, deks ojle is highly advised for marine use woods.  It's
> a high maintenance product, being more oil than resin (part one of the 2
> part mix).  I used part one on my canoe rails and liked how it worked.
> It's a highly thinned oil with some hardening resin.  It's application
> calls for continually applying the product until you can't stand the
> fumes anymore.  That's not exactly what it says on the can, but the just
> of it is: the more the merrier, and then you wipe it off and let it
> dry.  And if you do this on a cool day and the next day it gets hot,
> you'd better look into wiping it again.  You don't want it to expell oil
> and then have it dry on the surface.
>
> Since a penetrating resin dries and hardens internally, further coats
> will have largely diminishing value.  This makes this one pain in the
> !_at_#$ application a superior method of application imho.  Minwax and
> Watco both probably make good marine penetrating resins, but I found the
> deks ojle most reccommended.  Painters were making penetrating resin
> decades (if not centuries) before it was invented, with varnish and
> linseed oil, but I tend to think a product designed for internal
> hardening is going to be designed to achieve the slowest possible
> hardening.  Whether you can achieve the same increase in hardening time
> by adding more linseed oil as compared to using a modern penetrating
> resin I don't know.  But if there were considerable cost savings (lots
> of sq ft) I would go for the cost savings.  To finish the rails on one
> boat and a couple paddles I'd use the modern stuff.
>
> That said, I wouldn't fail to use a spar polyurethane on a chunk of wood
> to be continually immersed in water (read paddle).  You could tape it
> off so as to not varnish the area that would be gripped.  And use deks
> ojle on the handle, spar poly on the blade.
>
> Mike
>
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