Hello everyone, I finally had some photos developed from my current boatbuilding project: http://www.missoulaconcrete.com/shawn/guillemot/ I'm probably about halfway done, at about 100 hours. I still have to finish the deck stripping, fiberglass the whole shebang, and lots o' sanding and varnishing. Oh, and plenty of outfitting to make it seaworthy. Shawn -- Shawn W. Baker 0 46°53'N © 2000 ____©/______ 114°06'W ~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^\ ,/ /~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^ baker_at_montana.com 0 http://www.missoulaconcrete.com/shawn/ *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - All postings copyright the author and not to be reproduced outside PaddleWise without author's permission Submissions: paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net Subscriptions: paddlewise-request_at_lists.intelenet.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
Hi Tom, I don't think that one technique is much sturdier than the other. A lot of stitch and glue boats are only fiberglassed on the outside, but the okoume marine plywood is more continuous and therefore stronger than strips that are just edge glued with yellow glue (necessitating glass inside and out for both strength and moisture protection of the core). Stitch and glue boats would be a lot tougher to modify. You buy plans with the beam, rocker, and panel widths already set, and modifying any one characteristic without changing another is dicey at best. Strip boats, on the other hand, lend themselves readily to modification. For example, I added a foot of length to my boat by spacing the forms on 12.75" centers rather than 12" centers. It would also be easy to reduce the beam by scaling down the width of the form, but keeping the height constant, and keeping the spacing between the forms the same as originally designed. I added an inch to the deck height in the cockpit area to accommodate my long legs and big feet. I left the height of the ends the same as designed to keep windage out at the ends to a minimum. It would also be quite easy to add more glass inside and out to make a tougher boat, more suitable for surf than your "average" layup. Jay Babina has a W. Greenland-style strip design called the Outer Island, that is supposed to be a really seaworthy boat. http://seacanoe.org/outrisle.htm Nick Schade's book is "the" source for strip building. Kulczycki's and Putz's book are "the" books for s&g and skin-on-frame building, I'm told. Shawn tfj_at_interaccess.com wrote: > > Shawn: Thanks for posting your photos on your projects. They look great! Is > one construction technique sturdier than another (stitch and glue vs. strip)? > How easy is it to modify designs to narrow the beam? How much do you rely on > kits for parts, and how good are they? I am thinking about building a wood > kayak with 18-20" beam for use in Great Lakes environments, including rough > surf. I've been reading the Schade book, which is an education even if I don't > build. I intend to read Putz and Kulczycki, too, for the same reason. > > Tom Joyce > > "Shawn W. Baker" wrote: > > > Hello everyone, > > I finally had some photos developed from my current boatbuilding > > project: > > http://www.missoulaconcrete.com/shawn/guillemot/ > > > > I'm probably about halfway done, at about 100 hours. > > > > I still have to finish the deck stripping, fiberglass the whole shebang, > > and lots o' sanding and varnishing. Oh, and plenty of outfitting to > > make it seaworthy. > > > > Shawn > > -- > > Shawn W. Baker 0 46°53'N > > © 2000 ____©/______ 114°06'W > > ~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^\ ,/ /~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^ > > baker_at_montana.com 0 http://www.missoulaconcrete.com/shawn/ > > *************************************************************************** > > PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - All postings copyright the author and not > > to be reproduced outside PaddleWise without author's permission > > Submissions: paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net > > Subscriptions: paddlewise-request_at_lists.intelenet.net > > Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ > > *************************************************************************** -- Shawn W. Baker 0 46°53'N © 2000 ____©/______ 114°06'W ~~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^\ ,/ /~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^~^ baker_at_montana.com 0 http://www.missoulaconcrete.com/shawn/ *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - All postings copyright the author and not to be reproduced outside PaddleWise without author's permission Submissions: paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net Subscriptions: paddlewise-request_at_lists.intelenet.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
Shawn wrote - >I don't think that one technique is much sturdier than the other. A lot >of stitch and glue boats are only fiberglassed on the outside, Some aren't glassed at all except on the seams. >Stitch and glue boats would be a lot tougher to modify. You buy plans >with the beam, rocker, and panel widths already set, and modifying any >one characteristic without changing another is dicey at best. Yes and no. Pare bits off and stitch it up. If things don't meet, holes can be filled with scraps of ply or cloth and epoxy. >Strip boats, on the other hand, lend themselves readily to >modification. For example, I added a foot of length to my boat by >spacing the forms on 12.75" centers rather than 12" centers. Same with S&T. Once the bottom panels have been cut and stitched, the sides don't have to be cut accurately, offer up a side which is bigger than needed and mark where it meets the bottom, cut to the marks and stitch. > I added an inch to the deck >height in the cockpit area to accommodate my long legs and big feet. Decks are the easiest to modify. Fit laminated deck beams with the required curvature and cut the tops of the bulkheads to the same curve. Alex . . Alex (Sandy) Ferguson Chemistry Department University of Canterbury New Zealand *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - All postings copyright the author and not to be reproduced outside PaddleWise without author's permission Submissions: paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net Subscriptions: paddlewise-request_at_lists.intelenet.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
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