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From: Clyde Sisler <clyde_sisler_at_email.msn.com>
subject: [Paddlewise] Central Florida Trip Summary
Date: Tue, 21 Mar 2000 19:02:34 -0500
Dateline: February 28, 2000 - Orange City, Florida

I traded the 18 foot fiberglass Necky Looksha IV in for a  14 foot plastic
Perception Acadia kayak.  I plan on doing more inland paddling and this is
more in keeping with the smaller waters while still being comfortable enough
for some rough ocean going, if need be.

The comfort factor was soon proven because the second day I had it I managed
to get myself caught in a narrow (Sebastian) inlet between a strong outgoing
tide and a strong incoming wind.  This produced very steep and very fast 3
foot incoming waves (about eye level, every 2-3 seconds) and I also had to
deal with 2.5 foot waves (about shoulder level)  bouncing off a nearby jetty
coming at me from the side at a somewhat slower pace.  That's when I decided
it might be prudent to get my sorry butt out of there because things were
worse farther out.  This made for a pretty wild ride, particularly in a new
boat.  I survived, so I'm pleased with the Acadia's performance in those
conditions.

A local claims 18 knot currents in Sebastian Inlet.  I dunno about that.
I'd guess 6-7 knots at whatever level the tide was at that day.  I know if I
hadn't been able to surf down the face of the waves on the way back, I would
have had to ferry my way to one of the jetties to avoid being swept out past
the turbulence.  I couldn't make any forward progress in the troughs nor
when there was a break in the waves.

Others have told me people die in Sebastian Inlet every year.  Kayakers,
surfers, swimmers, boaters?  I dunno.  If you lost your boat out there and
didn't have a PFD, I can see how you would be in some really serious
trouble.  You'd soon become exhausted being buffeted around in those kind of
waves.  If you were dumb enough not to have a PFD on you probably wouldn't
have a wet suit on either and hypothermia would exacerbate the problem.

What can I say about the Loxahatchee National Wild and Scenic River?  If
you're looking for open waters, go elsewhere, you won't find them here.
This is a very narrow (30 feet average) river with a canopy of overhanging
live oaks, palms and dead cypress.  Vines and Spanish moss hang down from
the oaks, often dragging in the water.  Ferns with 6-8 foot leaves line the
banks in some areas and saw palmettos provide a lush, but prickly, carpet
for slash pines and cabbage palms in the background.

With downed tress, mostly cypress, lying over the water, in the water and
under the water, you often have to go over, under and around obstacles.  For
the most part there's no obvious signs of grooming the river for paddlers
but it was fairly easy to get through.  This one is a keeper.

A funny thing happened to me on the way to Lake Okeechobee.  I ended up in
Brunswick, Georgia, 350 miles away.  After I got myself straightened out and
headed south again, I stopped off at Lake George in northern Florida at the
suggestion of a local outfitter and got my first experience with alligators.

Remember the old jungle movies of crocodiles sliding quietly into the water?
That ain't necessarily so.  The alligators I encountered that first day
didn't do that.  They exploded into panic mode when I surprised them.
I was paddling along the shore and heard a great splashing and thrashing and
saw one of those big lizard things plunging into the water.  Yeah, you know
the ones I mean, the ones with the great big teeth; alligators.  And I ain't
talking about them little dudes on the sport shirts, neither.  Then another,
and another and another plunged in.  One of them tried to leap over a downed
palm tree lying at a 45 degree angle to the bank but instead, did a belly
flop right on it, ricocheted off into the water and followed the length of
the palm to deeper water, passing right under me.  Then I saw a fifth
alligator still on shore staring right at me from about 35-40 feet.  He
seemed to be the biggest of the bunch.  I got the camera out and snapped off
one picture.  When I turned it off, the zoom started making some brand new
noises which finally spooked the gator and he too headed for deeper water
and passed right under me.

When I turned around towards the deeper water I saw all these beady little
eyes and snouts sticking up out of the water all around me.  Now that I was
looking for them, I could also see several 'logs' floating on the calm
surface in the distance.  There is something primal in being in the water
with a bunch of reptiles that date back millions of years and could very
easily tear you apart and eat you with great enjoyment.

And then there were the monkeys.  Monkeys?  In Florida?  Hey, would I kid
you?  I'm talking about those screeching, sh** slinging little buggers.  A
half dozen juveniles scampered up and down trees extending out over the
water while an older (probably female) and a teenager (also probably female)
kept watch.  There's no telling how many were back in the trees eating,
sleeping, making more little monkeys or whatever.

I got a couple of pictures (to back up my claim).  I aimed at one little guy
that was facing me and as I got him in the frame he turned around and all I
could see was his butt.  And he wouldn't move.  Deliberate?  I dunno.
Silver Springs is where they made the original Tarzan movies and I think one
or two others.  Jungle animals had to be imported to the area to support the
movies.  The monkeys either got loose or were let loose.  In any case,
there's 3-4, maybe more, different troops ranging along different parts of
the rivers in that area.  Sightings are supposed to be comparatively rare so
I was blessed on this day.  Let's hope there's no lions or hippopotamuses or
anacondas loose in the area to bless others.  There's a lot more paddling to
be done in the Ocala National Forest.

Blue Spring (Orange City) pumps 104 million gallons of 72F degrees into the
St. Johns River every day.  When the river water becomes cool, manatees
congregate in the spring to stay warm.  They only venture out in the river
to feed because there is little or no oxygen and therefore no plant life for
them to feed on in the spring itself.

I only saw 2 manatees in the spring the 5 days I was there, a full grown one
and a small one just released from Sea World.  We were on the tail end of a
heat wave (yup, in February) with several days in the 80's.  This probably
heated the river enough for them to stay out.

The St. Johns River and smaller back water channels more than made up for
the lack of manatees with alligators.  On a sunny afternoon, they can be
seen on the grassy and sunny shores and in the backwater areas.  It seemed
like one appeared every 50 yards or so.  Some of them were really fat and I
suspect some exceeded 10 feet in length.  I got so I could spot them in
among roots and stuff a lot better.  That means I didn't sneak up on them
and scare the crap out of them and then get the crap scared out of me when
they erupted in a panic, trying to get to deep water.

The Wekiva River is another great paddle.  Flowing into the St. Johns river
at marker 96 below DeBary, it winds its way northward from Wekiva State
Park, 20-30 miles to the south.  I did the lower Wekiva River, paddling
upstream (south) from where it entered the St. Johns.  Averaging under 50
feet wide and 2-5 feet of clear, cold water, it's shores are lined with live
oaks and cypress, draped in Spanish moss in the lower sections and cabbage
palms and those thatched palms in the upper half near SR 46.  Many great
egrets, snowy egrets, blue and Ward's herons, coots, Ibises, hawks and
ospreys along the way.  Schools of bass in the water and many small, medium
and large alligators on the shores and tons of turtles everywhere you look.

Black Water Creek flows into the Wekiva River and is another great paddle.
Lot more peace and quiet and beauty.  Maybe not as much wildlife as the
Wekiva but enough to keep you alert.  The landscape varies from live oaks,
cypress, maples and myrtle to palm trees and slash pine.  The water's not as
cold and is much darker and deeper.

Lake Kissimmee and Lake Istokpoga are (in my opinion) lakes more for bass
fishermen than for paddlers.  Kissimmee is 10+ miles long and several miles
wide.  It has large concentrations of lily pads around the shorelines and
large fields and islands of the stuff stretching a half mile or more into
the lake.  The Kissimmee River flows into the lake at the north end and out
again at the south end.  Neither end looked very attractive to me and there
were no other creeks or rivers connected to the lake.

Lake Istokopoga had marsh grass extending way out from its shores.  It did
have several creeks and canals connected to the lake.  I did a couple and
they were quite attractive.  Air boats drove me out of that area though.

Both lakes had a fair number of the usual birds scattered around in the lily
pads and marsh grass  along with many small alligators.  One would assume
there are large alligators where there are small ones.  I just didn't see
any large ones around these lakes.

If you've been annoyed by the whine of jet skis or the drone of fishing
boats, you ain't heard nothing until you've heard the full throttled roar of
a jet propelled air boat.  What a totally useless piece of crap they are.
You can see and feel them for miles.  I have to wonder about the mentality
of people who have to don protective ear coverings to go out and supposedly
enjoy the natural beauty and wildlife of an area.  After my experiences with
them, I now think fondly of jet skis and power boats.

So, I've been having a great time in central Florida.  Wonderfully mild
weather (80's the past few weeks), no bugs, lots of birds, a few snakes but
no manatees on the river nor river otters yet.  I  don't really expect to
see any bobcats, black bears or Florida panthers.  Maybe some wild cows and
pigs though.

Standard paddling gear has been sandals, no socks, swim trunks and synthetic
T-shirt.  I think it's spring in Florida now.  Ospreys are building or
repairing nests in preparation for the mating season.  Gators are probably
getting horny too about now.  I'll have to be careful.  I don't want to get
mistaken for another male alligator.  Or a female either, for that matter.

I was supposed to be moving farther south with Lake Okeechobee my last
planned stop (again) in central Florida.  With the kind of lakes I had just
paddled, I thought Okeechobee would be more of the same.  And for some
reason, unknown to myself, I decided against the Florida Keys for this year.
Instead, I'm on the west coast of Florida, heading north.

Ahhh!  Life is good.  Yes, life is very good.

Clyde Sisler
http://csisler.com





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