Re: [Paddlewise] wave dynamics

Bill wrote;

> Now - can one or more of you tell me how to compute the potential/kinetic
> energy in waves of different characteristics? (Yeah I know - go out there
and
> see how fast I get trashed - but seriously now....)
>
The potential energy per unit area in a wave = pg*(H^2)/8  H^2 = the wave
height squared and g = the acceleration due to gravity and p = the density
of the water. (I think I have that right).

In a breaking wave this alters. Where the water molecules follow circular
paths in a non-breaking sea roughly the top third of the wave breaks off in
a breaking wave. This water experiences translational motion. The speed of
an open water breaking wave crest can exceed 2.1 times the wave speed. If
you calculate the drag of the paddler and topsides you can get a rough idea
of the force striking the paddler caught in a breaking sea.

Not a pleasant thought at all.

Cheers,

John Winters
Redwing Designs
Web site address, http://home.ican.net/~735769



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