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From: Doug Lloyd <dlloyd_at_telus.net>
subject: [Paddlewise] Paddle Float Rescue Revisited
Date: Thu, 06 Apr 2000 23:30:02 -0700
An excerpt from my Paddle Float Rescue Seminar (actual hand-out reads more
formally):
Doug Lloyd(c)

Two other solo float-rescue options exist with respect to those who do not
wish to affix a paddle/blade to the rear deck [such as with Roger's point
about unequipped rental boats, etc -DL]. One method involves some
complexity, but affords more control of a non-fixed system. You will
require a continuous loop of rope or 1/2-inch webbing, about 12 to 15 feet
- essentially a large rescue sling. This provides a step-up if you are
tired or can't get up onto the deck otherwise. A sling utilizes the large
muscles of the legs, and secures the outrigger shaft firmly to the rear
deck during re-boarding, as weight is applied to keep it perpendicular and
in the horizontal position. It simply unravels once back in the cockpit.
The main disadvantage is of course, that you are once again destabilized in
choppy seas after retrieval.

Setting up the float-sling rescue is really very easy. At the point when
you normally get back into the kayak, place the shaft behind the cockpit
and get your sling and stretch it out. Make sure the shaft/float is behind
you (you are to be on the bow side of the shaft), then throw one end of the
sling over to the opposite side, looping the sling over the paddle blade.
Run the other end of the sling under your hull and wrap it around the
paddle shaft as close to the gunwale as possible. Continue to wrap in a
counter-clockwise rotation (if you are on the starboard side) until the
remaining loop hangs down to form a stirrup at the correct height for
stepping into. No more than four wraps should be used, so some length
experimentation may be required if you want to use the optimal stirrup
setup length. As you lift out of the water, the cinching hand naturally
tightens the sling wrap around the shaft. Place no more than the ball of
your foot into the ling, to avoid entanglement complications.

The other float-rescue option that can be more generically applied to
almost any kayak with a low enough rear deck doesn't use any deck rigging.
You deploy your float on the end of your paddle, then simply place the
shaft tight behind the rear cockpit coaming and wrap your hand and thumb
around the paddle shaft and rim. You must stay alert to maintain
perpendicularity of the paddle shaft with the kayak's keel line. Depending
on the kayak's stern buoyancy and size of cockpit, you may wish to remain
on the stern side of the shaft as you haul yourself up, thus taking
advantage of the right hand's typically greater strength (starboard side
rescue). You can keep one leg in the water until the point of twisting back
into the cockpit, in order to gain some needed stability.

The primary disadvantage of this non-fixed option is that your hands are
the first things to lose dexterity and strength. While large, strong hands
do much better with the two described rescues, you are still left
destabilized from water sloshing around in your cockpit, etc. With each
unsuccessful attempt, there is less chance of a happy outcome as you lose
said strength and dexterity. While the primary advantage is, again,
avoidance of the rather precarious moment removing a fixed system (even
faster without the sling), it is also an extremely fast rescue when
combined with a foam float and no tether complications - for those who take
the time to develop proficiency.

In order to maintain some stability, proponents of this solo reentry
advocate the simplicity of just pulling the paddle around to your front
once seated, and holding it across your lap, locked in place under your
elbows, whereby skirt reattachment and pumping can be carried out. During
the manoeuver, if you start to get knocked over, assuming you have gotten
as far as attaching the spray-cover, a put-across roll will quickly bring
you back to the vertical position. With the float still attached, the
roll (or partial roll, if you did not go over all the way) is easily done.
Those who rely on such unassisted rescues often install front deck, foot or
electronic pumps. The put-across roll is also a good way to right yourself
if you suddenly tip over just as you pull your paddle apart from your fixed
system during the previously described technique using straps or bungies.
And guess what? Your skirt is already done up, making the put-across roll
highly effective. There is still much to recommend the fixed-paddle float
rescue. Students are encouraged to learn a variety of techniques, even all
the above [including fixed deck rescues - DL] without aid of a float (which
could be blown away). Can you use your PFD? Your seat? A gear bag? Just the
paddle? Can you perform it with one arm impaired? Chance favors the prepared.
....................................

Hope this is useful to someone. My seminars are designed to address the
realities encountered at sea. Students normally finish the class with a new
appreciation for group travel! I also use rear-deck mock-ups made from
wood, to demonstrate the relative merits of the various fixed back-deck PF
systems. A small picture of me and my props can be viewed in the latest
edition of Wavelength Magazine.

Safe paddling.

Doug Lloyd


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From: Matt Broze <mkayaks_at_oz.net>
subject: Re: [Paddlewise] Paddle Float Rescue Revisited
Date: Fri, 7 Apr 2000 23:37:44 -0700
Doug wrote:

>>One method involves some
complexity, but affords more control of a non-fixed system. You will
require a continuous loop of rope or 1/2-inch webbing, about 12 to 15 feet
- - essentially a large rescue sling. This provides a step-up if you are
tired or can't get up onto the deck otherwise. A sling utilizes the large
muscles of the legs, and secures the outrigger shaft firmly to the rear
deck during re-boarding, as weight is applied to keep it perpendicular and
in the horizontal position. It simply unravels once back in the cockpit.
The main disadvantage is of course, that you are once again destabilized in
choppy seas after retrieval.<<


On reading Doug's post above describing using the loop of rope or webbing
(I'd rather step on 1" webbing) to hold the paddle in place to stabilize the
kayak and provide a step to help climb back board, I thought of something
that might improve this method a lot. First I want to make it clear that
this type of rescue will work best if the deck is relatively flat so the
paddle shaft keys with the flat area to prevent the kayak from spinning
around under it. I thought: "why not tie the webbing to the shaft so it will
stabilize the boat even after you get your weight off the loop hanging into
the water". It would need to be tight enough and easy to untie an remove. I
played around with some webbing and wonder if this way might work. After
wrapping the webbing around the shaft a few times (on the float side of the
kayak) make a slip knot and pull enough through that knot so there is a
double loop the same length as the single loop on the end. put the single
and double loops together and step into that loop (three bands of webbing
below your foot). Doug didn't say it but the length here is very critical
(when you step into the loop your shin needs to rest against the side of the
boat). Too long and your whole leg will swing under the kayak as you try to
stand up in it (preventing you from being able to get your body over the
deck). Once back aboard tighten the slip knot again to help keep the paddle
float in place for pumping. To release it firmly grip the shaft and hold it
down to the deck with one hand outboard of the webbing. With the other hand
reach around and unslip the knot and pull the wraps off the shaft. Get the
paddle in front of you again (in a way that doesn't tangle you in the
webbing) and holding the float into the water (ready for a paddle float
roll--as Doug described) remove the other loop from the paddle and stow it.
If anyone tries this on the water before I do please report back to me (or
paddlewise).

Matt Broze
http://www.marinerkayaks.com


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