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From: M. Wagenbach <wagen_at_u.washington.edu>
subject: [Paddlewise] San Juan trip report 5/6-7/00 (long)
Date: Thu, 11 May 2000 12:39:21 -0700 (PDT)
Six paddlers (4 men, 2 women, aged 25-35) from the University of
Washington Kayak Club did this trip last weekend.  This is a write-up for
the club, so by way of background:  The San Juans are pretty, but
especially in summer taking a car on a ferry is a pain, so this route
avoids that, at the "cost" of a 5 mile crossing at the beginning.  The
total milage to Turn Island is about 22 nm, but the strong following
currents along much of the route cut at least a fourth off that in terms
of paddling distance.

With some great luck with the weather, we had a very nice little
weekend.  Leaving the Ravenna Park and Ride at 7:30, we arrived at
Washington Park just before 9, packed, shuttled cars to the ferry port and
put in at 10:35, just in time to catch the peak ebb in Rosario Strait at
3.3 knots at 1100.  Weather was partly cloudy and clearing over the San
Juans, with light southerly wind and barely rippled water.  Once off the
beach, thick clouds and apparent rain could be seen over the Olympics, but
there they stayed.  

We paddled north then northwest to ferry out to mid-current in the outflow
from Bellingham Channel.   Diffuse eddylines and upwellings were visible
entering the current, but without any incoming windwaves, these were of no
consequence.  As we exited Bellingham Channel, we turned to a course
ferrying toward Belle Rock light.  With a westerly component of the
current still behind us, this required a fairly small correction angle of
about 25 to 30 degrees, so our boats were aimed at James Island.  A couple
of porpoises passed in front of us, and a few pigeon guillimots took off
as we approached.  

Farther out, it was clear as we reached the more southerly Rosario Current
that ferrying straight to James Island north of Belle Rk would be
impractical.  (This was not the plan, just a comment.)  Approaching the
shipping lanes, we turned more toward Lopez Pass and crossed the lanes
while the current pushed us SW toward Bird Rocks.  Near the west edge of
the lanes mild turbulence made the water look choppy, but again was not
significant until we reached an eddyline and upwelling a few hundred
meters E of Bird Rks which was strong enough to turn the boats somewhat
despite countering sweep strokes.  Leaving this area, small waves occurred
as the water accellerated SE and S of Bird Rks.  In significant southerly
wind, it would doubtless be more prudent to remain a half-mile or so
farther south than our course, to avoid the bulk of these current effects,
even though the charted shipping lanes are somewhat wider there.  Despite
our ferry angle, we averaged about 6 knots over the ground to this point.

Closing the shore at Kellet Ledge, we found less of a standing wave than
expected, even though the predicted current was at least 25% greater than
during my previous visit to the area.  James suggested that the tide
height might explain this, which must be correct, as the last time I was
about 90 minutes later relative to the peak ebb in Rosario.  

Paddling south toward Pt. Colville we had progressively less current
assist, so staying well offshore was an advantage.  An immature bald eagle
flew past carrying a fish, and several others appeared to join it when it
reached the shore.  Three marbled murrelets appeared in front of my
boat;  one dove and the others demonstrated their weird skimming take-off
technique.  A couple of rhinocerous auklets flew past, and while a few
more were seen later, they made barely a tenth the number I saw on this
route last August.  Finally, we stopped just offshore north of the point,
and found that we were not drifting at all, though it was only 12:30 so
the ebb continued in the Straits for about 2 more hours.  The water at
this point was virtually glassy.  Passing up a landing on a small beach
for a furtive pee break was something a few of us would soon regret.  Mea
culpa.

Without helpful and amusing currents, we had time to look at the inter-
and sub-tidal life along Lopez's south shore.  Kelps small and large, lots
of chitons and big limpets and a few burly purple stars were the most
memorable.  A blue heron and four turkey vultures were seen flying over
Lopez, about 10 seals bobbed off one rock watching us, and we had close
views of a couple more young bald eagles perching and several
oystercatchers foraging.  Views over the strait are dramatic and long,
rather than the intimate channels more usually seen in the San
Juans.  Cavities eroded in solid rock show that storm winds really do
drive through here while we're all at work (or river boating) in winter.  

The last couple of miles up to Iceberg Point, a small foul current
developed a bit earlier than expected for the predicted stations.  Most of
these are well off the south shore, so presumably the flood starts to
sneak back in along the north side of the Strait of Juan de Fuca while the
main thrust of the Rosario current pushes along farther south.  It looks
like the current at Iceberg Pt turns at about the same time as the S
entrance of San Juan Channel (1322 in this case).  We rounded Iceberg
point just after 2 PM and hit the first pocket beach in the DNR land for
lunch.   

In a bit under an hour we were back on the water, hitting Cattle Pass
about an hour before peak flood (predicted 1653 at 4.5 knots).  Visiting
rocks SE of Long Island would have been interesting, as many birds could
be seen around them, but the flood current pushes north into the east part
of MacKaye Harbor, and would have made reaching that area more difficult
than was desireable.   Right off the SW point of Lopez, the tidal race
looked just about like a moderate Class II rapid, say the last section of
Powerhouse at 2000 cfs, in the virtual absence of any wind.   We skirted
this by staying away from the land, and continued angling into the channel
for the better part of a mile while several whirlpools were seen spinning
in the eddyline to our right.  We shared the channel with several
powerboats, the largest and slowest of which was visibly jostled by the
currents.

As the eddyline faded away, we concentrated on Turn Island, 4 miles away
but closing fast.  Gary's GPS indicated that even half way between Cattle
Pass and Turn, we had enough current to be running almost 8
knots.  Despite some grousing from the Looksha pilot, all continued to
paddle solidly, so, sadly, no towing was done.  

Turn Island has about a dozen campsites, none of which seemed occupied at
first glance.  Taking advantage of this, we sprawled out over about 4
sites.  I caught a good look at a pileated woodpecker just after landing,
and harlequin ducks and noisy Canada geese were in the cove in front of
the campsite at almost all times.  A group of 3 kayakers and some students
from Friday Harbor labs in rowboats finally did turn up, but were all
staying out of sight, so we enjoyed a private dinner with 2 desserts
(cheesecake and ice cream) and 3 bottles of wine, and a pretty
sunset.  The shady site was a bit chilly at breakfast, but the 2 mile
paddle to Friday Harbor against almost 2 knots of ebb current warmed us
up!  Due to model yacht racers on the closest dock, we took out at a dock
a couple hundred feet further away, so wheels were a big help in hauling
the boats to the ferry staging area.  We had just enough time for a quick
meal at the Ale House before the 1:50 ferry.  Not waiting in the parking
lots is great!!

Mike Wagenbach
Seattle

"When I hear post-modernist jargon, I reach for my pistol."
-me

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