RE: [Paddlewise] Wooden Paddles

From: Matt Broze <mkayaks_at_oz.net>
Date: Tue, 6 Jun 2000 22:06:12 -0700
Chuck wrote:

 >>I believe (without tank tests or
calculations, Mr. Winters) that it is the double-convex section of this
blade that gives the blade so much lift when it is swept or sculled, and
even for the forward stroke, if you use the right technique. Certainly it
is much easier to scull with than a Euro-style paddle, because it has a
less critical blade angle. Unfortunately, I have not stressed this enough
in my instructions on how to make one, and I have seen more than one
homemade Greenland paddle with blades that were too thin, too flat, or had
squared-off edges.<<

While rounding the edges to make a better foil should decrease the flutter
and increase the stall angle of a narrow blade a high aspect ratio foil has
a much shallower stall angle than a wider (low aspect ratio) foil. The
sculling angle is more critical on the narrower paddle but a thicker cord
and rounded leading edge can widen the range of sculling angles for either
paddle. True spoons are about the least forgiving, but a narrow paddle with
a concave power face should be even worse.


>>Where they meet in the
West Greenland paddle is a shoulder where the loom abruptly widens into the
root of the blade (what would be called the throat area on a Euro paddle).
In use, the thumb and forefinger grasp the loom at the shoulder, while the
last three fingers grasp the root of the blade. This allows a very secure
grip on the paddle, while at the same time it gives an almost instictive
feel for the orientation of the blade, which is very important when rolling
or bracing. Also, the shoulder works as a built-in index point for hand
placement.<<

But Chuck, if your fingers are on the blade then where do the drip rings go!

Matt Broze (a kayaking wuss, who if offered the choice between drip rings or
pogies--but not both--would choose the drip rings)
http://www.marinerkayaks.com


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Received on Tue Jun 06 2000 - 22:03:51 PDT

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