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From: Chuck Holst <cholst_at_bitstream.net>
subject: RE: [Paddlewise] Wooden Paddles
Date: Mon, 5 Jun 2000 13:48:11 -0500
>>
I have never tried the narrower-bladed manufactured paddles, and would be 
interested in a comparison from any who have paddled both Greenland and 
narrow, Euro-design progeny.

Tom Joyce
>>

The narrowest fiberglass paddle I have used is an Eddyline Wind Swift, but 
one thing I like to emphasize is that the cross-section of a Greenland 
blade is as distinctive as the profile. I believe (without tank tests or 
calculations, Mr. Winters) that it is the double-convex section of this 
blade that gives the blade so much lift when it is swept or sculled, and 
even for the forward stroke, if you use the right technique. Certainly it 
is much easier to scull with than a Euro-style paddle, because it has a 
less critical blade angle. Unfortunately, I have not stressed this enough 
in my instructions on how to make one, and I have seen more than one 
homemade Greenland paddle with blades that were too thin, too flat, or had 
squared-off edges.

Another difference between the Greenland paddle and a narrow-bladed Euro 
paddle is the way the loom, or shaft, meets the blade. The loom on a 
Greenland paddle is oval in section rather than round, with the long axis 
90 degrees from the long axis of the blade section. Where they meet in the 
West Greenland paddle is a shoulder where the loom abruptly widens into the 
root of the blade (what would be called the throat area on a Euro paddle). 
In use, the thumb and forefinger grasp the loom at the shoulder, while the 
last three fingers grasp the root of the blade. This allows a very secure 
grip on the paddle, while at the same time it gives an almost instictive 
feel for the orientation of the blade, which is very important when rolling 
or bracing. Also, the shoulder works as a built-in index point for hand 
placement.

For Steve Posti, my instructions can be downloaded from the Inland Sea 
Kayakers Web site at http://www.isk.canoe-kayak.org, from the Paddlewise 
site, or from the Unofficial Greenland Kayak Club site at http://magicne  
t.net/~gstamer/QK.html.

Chuck Holst
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From: Chuck Holst <cholst_at_bitstream.net>
subject: RE: [Paddlewise] Wooden Paddles
Date: Tue, 6 Jun 2000 07:59:01 -0500
>>
     Mmmm, lets see. As I look down my Chuck Holst inspired Greenland 
paddle
it probably could use a l-i-t-t-l-e more ovaling towards the ends. Yeah my
Windswift never gets any use anymore. For me Green land style paddling is 
the
way to go. I use a style that's a bit more open than many stateside 
Greenland
style "teachers" advocate. Looking at the Amphibious man video, former
Greenland champ John Peterson's style is relaxed and somewhat open as I'm
sure many native Greenlanders are...
Walt Levins
Portland,Or.
>>

It is interesting to compare Doug Van Dorn's style in his Greenland style 
instructional videotape to that of the East Greenlanders in the 1932 film 
Palos Brudefaerd by Knud Rasmussen. Doug's looks like a racing style: 
precise, tight, controlled. The Greenlanders' style is relaxed and fluid, 
and furthermore incorporates a partial sliding stroke, which Doug was 
ignorant of when he made his own video.

Chuck Holst


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From: Matt Broze <mkayaks_at_oz.net>
subject: RE: [Paddlewise] Wooden Paddles
Date: Tue, 6 Jun 2000 22:06:12 -0700
Chuck wrote:

 >>I believe (without tank tests or
calculations, Mr. Winters) that it is the double-convex section of this
blade that gives the blade so much lift when it is swept or sculled, and
even for the forward stroke, if you use the right technique. Certainly it
is much easier to scull with than a Euro-style paddle, because it has a
less critical blade angle. Unfortunately, I have not stressed this enough
in my instructions on how to make one, and I have seen more than one
homemade Greenland paddle with blades that were too thin, too flat, or had
squared-off edges.<<

While rounding the edges to make a better foil should decrease the flutter
and increase the stall angle of a narrow blade a high aspect ratio foil has
a much shallower stall angle than a wider (low aspect ratio) foil. The
sculling angle is more critical on the narrower paddle but a thicker cord
and rounded leading edge can widen the range of sculling angles for either
paddle. True spoons are about the least forgiving, but a narrow paddle with
a concave power face should be even worse.


>>Where they meet in the
West Greenland paddle is a shoulder where the loom abruptly widens into the
root of the blade (what would be called the throat area on a Euro paddle).
In use, the thumb and forefinger grasp the loom at the shoulder, while the
last three fingers grasp the root of the blade. This allows a very secure
grip on the paddle, while at the same time it gives an almost instictive
feel for the orientation of the blade, which is very important when rolling
or bracing. Also, the shoulder works as a built-in index point for hand
placement.<<

But Chuck, if your fingers are on the blade then where do the drip rings go!

Matt Broze (a kayaking wuss, who if offered the choice between drip rings or
pogies--but not both--would choose the drip rings)
http://www.marinerkayaks.com


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