[Paddlewise] Tebenkof bay, Alaska

        Here is a long post about my recent trip...and I promise this time no
bears will be pulling our legs.





    My two week trip began out of the Tlingit village of Kake in southeast
Alaska. My original plan was to circumnavigate Kuiu island a trip of 165 miles
not including extra miles for exploring. However, on the ferry ride over from
Sitka I decided on a less aggressive lower mileage trip. I decided I wanted
more time to explore side bays plus more "option to stay in camp days"  in
case of bad weather. Also I would have faced stiff winds in narrow passages
for the first two days.


    Unfortunately the ferry arrived in Kake at 2 a.m. by the time I got
unloaded from the ferry and everything repacked in the kayak it was around
3:30 am. with little sleep and the morning well on it's way I decided to
paddle. Three hours later I made an interesting mistake...I took a break,
leaned back and nearly fell asleep in the kayak. Luckily I awoke before I
flippedotherwise it would have been a rude and cold awakening!


    My first goal  was The Bay of Pillars located on the west side of Kuiu,
about 50 miles from Kake.This bay narrows down to small passage about 50 feet
wide then opens up into a mile wide bay. The entire trip was characterized by
lots of wildlife, the Bay Of Pillars being no exception . The Bay of Pillars
was full of black bears (I saw 6 in the bay) plus deer and river otter. I
watched a family of river otters ride the tide toward a small Island that I
assume was home. They all gathered around a small opening in the rocks and on
a "grunt" signal they all hopped out of the water and scurried into the woods.
I was so fascinated by the otters that I didn't see the deer standing on the
shore until the otter ran passed her! The deer didn't run but kept looking at
me then into the woods. It was then I noticed a small fawn standing back in
the trees.Since I was drifting with the tide I was able to stay motionless and
drift by. Had I been actively paddling I am sure the deer would have ran but
instead she stayed on the beach till I drifted out of sight.


    My next destination Tebenkof Bay, a designated wilderness area somewhat
protected from clearcut logging. I spent the next 5 days exploring the
multiple islands and passages of Tebenkof. 


    Sea Otters abounded in Tebenkof. Often  they would be laying on their
backs as I would paddle by (careful to not paddle at them) . When they saw me
they would "sit up in the water" and give me a long look them plop under only
to emerge behind me for another look. 


    In the small bay I camped in I  watched mother sea otter feeding a pup.
She would  dive under leaving the pup on the surface...it would immediately
start screaming till mom came back up with a delicious urchin to eat...them
together they would share the feast. Other times I would see a pup resting on
the mom's stomach as she floated on the surface.


    Whale sighting were an every day occurrence. I saw many Humpback Whales
and a couple of Minke whales. One humpback was having fun breaching over and
over again. She (?) would lunge out of the water arching her back as if to do
a back flip.  It seemed as if she was going for air time!


    Another time I was paddling in the midst of large school of herring when a
humpback surfaced 50 feet from me and was "lunge feeding". This is when the
whale swims on it's side or back with its' mouth open scooping in feed. I had
for a moment a Jonah like feeling especially as I heard its' jaws clumping
shut.


    Harbor Seals were everywhere. It seem like everytime I turned around to
look at something , a seal would splash under. They are curious and often
follow kayakers, and ducking under when you spot them.


    The old timers in Alaska talk about how the deer are "becoming almost
tame". I had an unusual experience when one morning after packing the boat a
doe walked out of the woods and walked to within 20 feet of me. (I paced off
the distance later) It just looked up at me as if it were a pet. Finally I
said out loud "you are lucky this isn't deer season" and the deer slowly
walked back into the woods.


    Also I saw eagles grap fish out of the water,  harbor porpoise feeding and
dall porpoise surfing the bow of a fishing boat. I heard the cry of the common
loon, and followed the tracks of a wolf down the beach.  A sea lion or two
checked me out and black bears joined me in my camp a couple of times.


    All kidding aside, the Black bears were plentiful but also well feed.
Beach grasses such as Goose Tongue and Beach Asparagus were ripe and plentiful
so the bears were working the beach. Also bear enjoy turning over beach rocks
and snacking on crabs. Two different mornings I emerged from my tent to find
bears within 50 yards of my tent. Had they come closer while I slept? Only the
bear knows. Also a couple evenings I watched bear work the beach slowly moving
closer. When the distant got to close for comfort I did what the Tlingit have
done for centuries...I talked to the bear and when he realized I was there the
bear would amble off into the woods.


    My trip coincided with some of the biggest tides of the year, when meant
if I timed it right I could paddle with the tides. the only problem was it
camping well into the woods to avoid a middle of the night "water bed" (been
there done that!) Then early next morning launch with the moring low tide.
This meant carring the gear and the boat a long, long way to the water. Kayaks
are great on the water but a real pain on the land!


    


    One moment in the whole trip stands out for me....


     At one point I had a three mile open crossing. the morning of the
crossing Tebenkof bay was really socked in with fog. I plotted my compass
reading and took off for a small set of islands. (by the way, if I  missed
these islands then it was another 10 miles of open water before I hit land.)
Very soon I was completely sorrounded in fog with perhaps 50 feet of
visibility at most. The sea was glass calm so that the horizon reflected the
fog in such a way that you could not tell where the water ended and the fog
began. It was a wonderful to be in the midst of such a mysterious illusion. 


    Tebenkof Bay is full of sea otters so as I paddled in the midst of the fog
and the illusion of no horizon , the sea otters would emerge from the
fog"floating in mid air". An illusion yes, but again a wonderful and
mysterious


one to be caught up in. It was a moment of intense solitude, peace and
spirituality.   When finally the land begin to emerge out of the fog it was as
if it were a whole new world.! (and it was)


Peace


Bob


Sitka




















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