Re: [Paddlewise] Cretins and Sad Mutations...

At 02:43 AM 8/19/00 -0500, Tom Meagher wrote:
>Hi all,

>Here's my question:  What is the best way to get back into a flooded kayak
>after capsizing?  (no skirt).

Nobody really addressed this so far so I thought I'd take a stab at it.
First, a couple of preface comments.  Getting back into a flooded kayak
after a capsize is much easier if you're paddling with someone else.  There
are several methods for reentry in deep water, all of which are easier than
a solo rescue.  Secondly,  both assisted rescues and solo rescues should be
practiced under controlled conditions, first in calm conditions, then in
increasingly rougher waters.  

When you capsize, intentionally or not, the first thing to remember is to
make sure to stay in contact with your boat, and your paddle at all times.
In calm conditions, it's possible to retrieve one, than the other, but if
there is a wind, strong tides, or currents, you can easily get separated
from your boat and/or your paddle.  If you're a bit off shore you can
quickly get into a dangerous situation, especially if the water is cold.

The first thing you need to do is get your boat back upright while emptying
out as much water as possible.  If the water is very cold, forget about
trying to empty the cockpit completely.  In this case, your priority is to
get the boat upright and get back in as quickly as possible.  Because your
boat (Dagger Seeker) had two bulkheads, it will limit the amount of water
entering the cockpit.  The rear bulkhead should be located just behind the
seat so the best way to empty it would be to get the bow elevated so that
the water drains toward the rear bulkhead.  There are a few methods of
doing so.  

Using the deck lines, make your way toward the stern.  Go all the way to
the end and the push down on the stern with all your weight.  If you are
heavy enough the bow will come up
and the cockpit combing will come out.  Once the air lock is broken the bow
will continue to rise, draining water toward the rear bulkhead.  At that
point, you can quickly rotate the boat
back upright.  There were still be some water in the cockpit but the boat
will be stable enough to try and climb back in.

Another method involves going to the bow and trying to raise it enough to
drain the boat.  Forget about trying this if you're not wearing your PFD.
You'll just sink when trying to lift the bow.  Even scissor kicking I find
this difficult to get the bow high enough to break the seal at the cockpit.
 A recently Sea Kayaker artcled described a technique for raising the bow,
with the assistance of a paddlefloat for extra floatation.  Essentialy, you
attach the paddlefloat, inflate it, then put the paddleshaft under your
arm, wrap a leg around the shaft, then push up on the bow, and rotate the
boat once the water has drained.

The third method, and the one which is easiest to get the boat upright is
to right the boat while holding onto the cockpit.  Just reaching under the
cockpit and flipping the boat over quickly will get the boat back over.
Sometime going underneath the boat, breaking the seal on one side, rocking
it back and forth and flipping it will get more water out.  Practice this
just off shore (but deep enough that you can't touch bottom) to find a
method that works best for you.

Once the boat is upright you have several options.

Someone mentioned the "cowboy" reentry.  Personally, I wouldn't rely on
this technique for getting back in, in anything other than real calm water.
 If you've got a small cockpit it will be even more difficult.
Essentially, you climb over the side of the boat near the stern, then pull
a leg over and pull yourself forward until you can reach the cockpit.  Then
it's a real balancing act to get your legs in the kayak, then sit down.
It's not too difficult to get up to the cockpit as long as you keep your
head low but getting your legs in and get seated is another story.

The most common method for a solo reentry involves the use of a paddle
float.  Paddlefloats come in two varieties.  The most common are dual
chambered inflatable (usually yellow) "pouches".  You insert the paddle
blade between the chambers, and with 3-4 puffs on each side can inflate the
float.  There is usually a piece of webbing with a snap that wraps around
the paddle shaft to secure the float.  The other variety is a piece of
closed cell foam inside a cloth holder with some kind of webbing or strap.
The paddle blade is inserted into the webbing or straps.

Depending on how your boat is outfitted you have a few options.  Some boats
will have web straps behind the cockpit an inch or so from the edge of the
deck.  The blade without the float on it can be inserted through the web
straps on one or both sides just behind the cockpit.  Sometimes the blade
can just go under a deck line to hold it in place.  Otherwise (or even
addition to) you need to hold the paddleshaft to the boat by wrapping your
hand around both the paddle shaft and the inside of the cockpit rim.  

Assuming that you're facing the side of the boat next the cockpit, the
paddle is up against the rear of the cockpit rim (between you and the stern
of the boat), and the paddle float in the water sort of behind you.  Grab
the cockpit rim on the other side with one hand while the other holds the
paddleshaft to the boat.  Now pull yourself up onto the boat.  As soon as
you can get your weight onto the boat, hook the front of your ankle over
the paddleshaft.   Keeping your head low (this is very important) turn your
body so that your head is facing the stern and you should be able to get
the other knee in the cockpit.  Now, with the hand that is on the side of
the paddle float, grab the paddle shaft and work it toward the paddlefloat
and you can shift your weight toward that hand as you crawl a bit further
onto the back deck and move your leg off of the paddle shaft and into the
cockpit.  At this point, remember two things:  "keep your head low"and
"keep your weight shifted toward the paddlefloat".  If you keep repeating
these mantras it will go a lot easier.   Slowly twist your body around
until your seated.  Keep your head low and always keep your weight toward
the paddlefloat.  If you can,. always try to keep you eyes on the paddle
float.  Often by the time it starts to lift off the water, it's too late,
and you're going to capsize on to the other side, forming the infamous
"yellow rainbow" with your paddle float.  Don't try to remove the paddle
and float until you're securely seated and your spray skirt is attached.

There is one other item that will make paddle float reentries a bit easier.
  Take a piece of rope about 15' long and tie it into a loop.  Run it under
the boat then put your paddle shaft through it on the other side. Then
bring the rest of the rope to your side of the boat (from under it) and
wrap it around the paddle shaft several times.  There will be a short loop
of rope remaining hanging in the water that you can step into to help you
climb on the boat.  The rope will also help hold the paddle in place if you
don't have good deck lines.  You can also use a rope in a similar manner by
wrapping it around the cockpit, then around the paddle shaft.

There is also one other solo rescue technique that is called a reentry and
roll, which can be done with or without a paddle float but they're most
likely beyond your level of experience at this point.


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