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From: Courtney <sudnlycord_at_excite.com>
subject: Re: [Paddlewise] Thule v Yakima - or NO rack at all
Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2000 13:33:55 -0700 (PDT)
I have a Yakima rack. I've bought a number of solutions (and returned them)
and the BEST setup I've found is simply strapping the kayak down on formed
foam blocks set on the rack. I think they have them at REI. You can also
order them from the Chesapeake Light Craft site. best of all, this set up
works on any car. I even used them on a car with NO rack (it's not as secure
but I did go 400 miles with no problem).

I bought the hully rollers and the Mako saddles. The kayak "bounced" around
too much. I found the foam pads keep it really secure. I've driven from NYC
to DC. DC to NC. And NYC to NC. 

Courtney


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From: <JSpinner_at_aol.com>
subject: Re: [Paddlewise] Thule v Yakima - or NO rack at all
Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2000 19:18:03 EDT
In a message dated 8/28/00 7:06:19 PM, sudnlycord_at_excite.com writes:

<< I bought the Hully rollers and the Mako saddles. The kayak "bounced" around
too much. I found the foam pads keep it really secure. I've driven from NYC
to DC. DC to NC. And NYC to NC. >>

Bounced? I have two sets on my Jeep Cherokee. It may be the very long base 
they sit on with the bars at the farther ends of the factory rack but I have 
never had a moment of worry with my Hully-rollers and saddles in over 2000 
miles with the boats on the car. My main concern with square bars is that the 
saddles are at an angle if the roof isn't flat. Maybe there is an adjustment 
you make but I don't know about that part.

Joan Spinner
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From: Melissa Reese <melissa_at_bonnyweeboaty.net>
subject: Re: [Paddlewise] Thule v Yakima - or NO rack at all
Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2000 16:46:10 -0700
On Mon, 28 Aug 2000 19:18:03 EDT,  wrote:
>In a message dated 8/28/00 7:06:19 PM, sudnlycord_at_excite.com writes:
>
><< I bought the Hully rollers and the Mako saddles. The kayak
>"bounced" around too much. I found the foam pads keep it really 
secure. I've driven from NYC to DC. DC to NC. And NYC to NC. >>
>
>Bounced? I have two sets on my Jeep Cherokee. It may be the very
>long base they sit on with the bars at the farther ends of the 
factory rack but I have never had a moment of worry with my 
Hully-rollers and saddles in over 2000 miles with the boats on the 
car. My main concern with square bars is that the saddles are at an 
angle if the roof isn't flat. Maybe there is an adjustment
>you make but I don't know about that part.
>
>Joan Spinner
>*********************************************************************

Here's another vote for Yakima!  I've been using an old Yak rack 
system with Yak TLC cradles for years, and it's all just as solid as 
when they were new.  The old TLC cradles hold boaty snug as a bug 
etc. - no bouncing at all.

I've always been so happy with Yakima, that I've never tried Thule.  
However - I do have a question about Thules...  why do I see so many 
of them "sagging"? (often, quite a bit).  I've never seen Yakimas sag 
like that, but I see many Thules doing it.  Anyone know why?

Melissa

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From: Sailboat Restorations, Inc. <sailboatrestorations_at_worldnet.att.net>
subject: Re: [Paddlewise] Thule v Yakima - or NO rack at all
Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2000 21:28:36 -0400
> I've always been so happy with Yakima, that I've never tried Thule.
> However - I do have a question about Thules...  why do I see so many
> of them "sagging"? (often, quite a bit).  I've never seen Yakimas sag
> like that, but I see many Thules doing it.  Anyone know why?

I've had Thule racks for years, on a number of cars, for a numer of
different activities (bikes, canoes, skis, kayaks. . . ).  I've not had a
problem with "sagging", but I would guess that a square or rectangular piece
of tubing smay be more likely to sag than a round piece of equal thickness.
Just a guess.  I ain't not physikist.

Still, I like the Thule stuff.  It seems plenty strong to me.  I have the
new Thule padded saddles that are apparently intended to answer the Hully
Rollers.  I find them very good, especially since I learned to run the
straps through them properly.  I don't have any particular brand loyalty,
really. . . but I have been very satisfied with the range and diversity of
products available from Thule, and have never been let down by a Thule rack
product, after many years of lugging stuff around on them.  But I guess
there are other brands that would do just as well.  What about smaller
companies?  I've seen some interesting things that were not Thule or Yakima.
. .

Mark

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From: Steve Cramer <cramer_at_coe.uga.edu>
subject: Re: [Paddlewise] Thule v Yakima - or NO rack at all
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2000 09:45:18 -0400
Courtney wrote:
> 
> I have a Yakima rack. I've bought a number of solutions (and returned them)
> and the BEST setup I've found is simply strapping the kayak down on formed
> foam blocks set on the rack. 

That's what we're using, too. The Yakima cradles worked fine, and if I
always carried the same (one or two) boats, they'd be OK, but from one
weekend to the next I may be carrying 1 SK, 4 SKs, 6 WW kayaks, a kayak
and an open canoe, 2 opens, etc, and it was just too much trouble taking
the things on and off.

Steve
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From: Jack Fu <jack.fu_at_worldnet.att.net>
subject: RE: [Paddlewise] Thule v Yakima - or NO rack at all
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2000 09:09:19 -0700
I have a Yakima rack with those U-shaped "stackers". I wrap foam insulation
around the rack bars and the stacker tubes. Then I put as many as 6 kayaks
on the car, on their sides. The system works very well. My car is a Subaru
Forester.

Jack Fu
47 37 39 N, 122 07 57 W
 
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From: <NEWTOT_at_mail.modot.state.mo.us>
subject: Re: [Paddlewise] Thule v Yakima - or NO rack at all
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2000 09:22:32 -0500
I believe the factory racks for BMW, Audi, and Volkswagen are made by the same
company - large aluminum bars with a slot on top for attachments to slide into.
(mine is BMW)  A kayak attachment is not available, but I've found two solutions
- one with aftermarket saddles and U brackets, and one for Thule stackers.  The
stackers require machining a flat piece of metal to which allen bolts are
screwed into or just removing the metal plates from other rack accessories and
using them.  My cousin works in a machine shop and is making some metal plates
that will fit the stackers exactly.  Let me know if you are interested in either
solution.


Tim


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From: Stephen Bird <stephen.bird_at_superaje.com>
subject: Re: [Paddlewise] Thule v Yakima - or NO rack at all
Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2000 20:13:42 -0400
On Mon, 28 Aug 2000 13:33:55 -0700 (PDT), you wrote:

>I have a Yakima rack. I've bought a number of solutions (and returned them)
>and the BEST setup I've found is simply strapping the kayak down on formed
>foam blocks set on the rack. I think they have them at REI. You can also
>order them from the Chesapeake Light Craft site. best of all, this set up
>works on any car. I even used them on a car with NO rack (it's not as secure
>but I did go 400 miles with no problem).

I use shaped foam blocks cut to the size of my Thule racks. They work very
well and I've driven from central Canada all over the southeastern USA.
Oh, yes, they cost all of Cdn $12 or about US $8. I wonder what I could get
from Thule or Yakima for $8 - perhaps a decal. :)
-- 
cheers, Stephen                     stephen.bird_at_superaje.com
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From: <JCMARTIN43_at_aol.com>
subject: Re: [Paddlewise] Thule v Yakima - or NO rack at all
Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2000 18:16:13 EDT
<I believe the factory racks for BMW, Audi, and Volkswagen are made by the same company>

VW and Audi racks are made by Votex --- wouldn't be at all surprised if they made racks for BMW.

<A kayak attachment is not available, but I've found two
solutions - one with aftermarket saddles and U brackets, and one for Thule stackers>

Another idea along the same vein, Tim --- if you can work from the top --- is to slide 5/16" (I'm pretty sure it was 5/16" that I used) carriage bolts into the Votex slots (sometimes you have to file down the crown of the head a tad for clearance) and bolt down whatever you want to file.  Or use Thule slides in the slots if you're okay with those dinky 1/4" (metric eqivalent?) that they use.  They work well, too.  The bike carrier I bought from Audi and Votex has "Thule" marks all over it.

Another idea for the Votex bars --- Malone of Maine J-cradles.  Ask for the wider spacing on the studs.  They work extremely well, and are solid as a rock in stiff winds.  And Richard *loves* to get those special orders!

Jack Martin

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