Thanks again to Matt and Scott for their responses. I am going to try to put down a layer of 404 protectant to keep the water away (to some extent) from the resin layer. After that I guess I will not worry about it- I doubt if the boat will wear out from the inside anyway- not with my penchant for finding hidden rocks. *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - All postings copyright the author and not to be reproduced/forwarded outside PaddleWise without author's permission Submissions: PaddleWise_at_PaddleWise.net Subscriptions: PaddleWise-request_at_PaddleWise.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
Wayne <wrf_at_hypatia.unh.edu> wrote: >>>>I have a kevlar Necky and have noticed that when water is left in the cockpit overnight or longer there is a white surface that appears on the kevlar lining. This white surface strongly adheres to the kevlar and remains even after the water is removed and the boat dried. Does anyone have an idea as to what this might be? How to remove it? Is it bad?<<<< Not seriously in the short term, but possibly over the years. I wouldn't bother trying to remove it. This white surface is not due to the Kevlar but to the surface of hand laid resin that has not been sealed off from the air during the cure. Air inhibits the cure on the surface layer of molecules and leaves this layer of molecules "reactive". Water and other things attack this layer and it turns white (especially after its been in a chlorinated pool). Over lots of time the surface can be eroded one layer at a time and weaken the laminate somewhat. Surface agents (liquid waxes mixed in the resin that float to the surface of it and block out the air), surface coats, Mylar (vacuum-bagging), or even waxed paper laid down over a repair prevents this. This is also why a repair to gelcoat or laminating resin will seem gummy and clog sandpaper if you don't use a surface agent or waxed paper over it during cure. On the plus side, an uncured surface is easy to patch since the molecules are ready to bond to more resin, even years later. Completely cured resin needs to be sanded first to provide a good mechanical bond for a repair. Raw (air inhibited surface) resin can also cause a rash if it is in contact with skin (for you Florida and Texas paddlers and maybe those of you who don't wear even their "Paddle Naked" T-shirts). Matt Broze http://www.marinerkayaks.com *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - All postings copyright the author and not to be reproduced/forwarded outside PaddleWise without author's permission Submissions: PaddleWise_at_PaddleWise.net Subscriptions: PaddleWise-request_at_PaddleWise.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
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