Re: [Paddlewise] Rolling Under Breakers

----- Original Message -----
From: Peter Treby <ptreby_at_ozemail.com.au>
> A technique question about surf skills:
> Anyone have any good ideas on rolling under breakers too big to punch
> through? Particularly, I am wondering about:
> 1. timing the roll under
> 2. timing the roll up
> 3. whether to stay in a roll set-up position while under water, or
> 4. whether to extend arms and paddle while under water to get a greater
> braking effect?
> 5. what size surf do you punch/spear through, what size do you roll under,
> and at what point do you just keep out altogether?
> Any real life practical tips appreciated.

Dear Peter,
I use rolling 'neath breakers whenever paddling in surf.  I duck under them
at the last second, and I use the Greenland "storm-roll" (Not to be confused
with the storm-roll depicted in Hutchinson's book on Eskimo Rolling.)  This
roll is set-up like a standard Greenland kayak roll, but the recovery is
such that you surface still leaning well forward, in a low defensive
position  (as opposed to leaning on the aft deck quite vulnerable to
subsequent breakers.)

The breakers' passing is easily felt, at which time you can roll up.  I hold
the set-up position through-out the submersion; the breaking-effect you
describe would seem to increase the chance of the wave taking you along for
a ride in lieu of passing over you.   I roll under breakers around 4'-5'
tall, depending on how hard I care to get hit in the face.  Practice of
course in lighter surf-waves, just to get a feel of it all.

The dynamics of a breaking wave seem to be such that the fast-moving top is
the more powerful element, whereas the slope below (and shore-ward) is not
in fast-motion.  While situations, skills, and experience may vary, I would
rather stick my head and torso into the more static element than in front of
the wave's fist. The bottom of a kayak presents very little surface area to
the crashing wave, and is especially strong as well.

I learned the value of ducking under breakers the hard way.  I got knocked
just shy of silly as a 6'+ breaker slammed into my torso and pushed me back
such that my head hit the back-deck of my kayakand flipped me over.  The
resistance my torso caused resulted in my kayak being taken along for a free
ride.  I surfed a good ways upside down with a cavitated spray-skirt (and
near-cavitated lungs and cranium).

    Harvey Golden
www.pacifier.com/~qayaq



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