[Paddlewise] Klepper yoke: was Re: Yoke for a Kayak

----- Original Message -----
From: "Andy Knapp" <AndyKnapp_at_worldnet.att.net>
> My yoke utilizes the padded shoulder rests commonly used by canoe yokes,
> and available from any Minnesota canoe shop, or Piragis Northwoods, Ely,
> MN. The thicker they are, the more visibility you get while under the
> kayak. A spacer can also be added to create clearance.
>
> The yoke has clamps, similar to gunwale clamps, to attach the yoke to the
> coaming of the kayak. This requires a polyethylene hull or a fiberglass
> kayak with the coaming bonded structurally to the hull.

Andy's idea reminds me of a simple yoke for Klepper owners that would work
on either the single or double Aerius models.  It comes from Eric Stiller
who was manager with his dad of the Klepper shop in NYC.  Since I know there
are a number of Klepper owners on PaddleWise on several continents, I
thought it might be useful to mention.

The yoke takes advantage of the groove on the hidden side of the coaming
facing the skin.  This groove has been used for other devices.  For example,
the Arctic or Expedition tuckunder spraydeck has a bead in its heam that
fits into that groove.  When the air sponsons are inflated, the bead gets
tightly pressed into position and the spraydeck stays on quite tenaciously.
That grove is also used, to a degree, with the J-bolts that clamp on to the
coaming and are the basis of devices like compass/chart boards, sailing
cleat boards, and even hiking seat attachment.

The yoke is simple and rolls up to a size not much bigger than a toilet
paper roll that has been three quarters used up.  The yoke consists of a
band of hypalon about  eight inches wide and with a length sufficient enough
to go across the width of the cockpit and have its beaded ends tuck under
the coaming and reach into the groove.  The bead is a thin enough piece of
cord to snug into the groove, around a quarter inch or so, perhaps thicker.

To make the yoke, you get two pieces of hypalon of the size I mention above
and cement them together using the cement meant for making patch repairs of
the hull (or use barge cement).  The bead is placed in position prior to the
cementing process.   The hypalon band is surprisingly comfortable across a
clothed shoulder.  I suppose that one could put some cushioning material in
between the hypalon layers if you chose.  But that would make it a bigger
package to roll up, albeit it could serve double duty as cushioning at the
bottom of the long piece bag when in transit through airlines etc.

The yoke is used like you use any yoke, i.e. across your shoulders.  Your
head will be in the cockpit somewhat, just how much depends on the slack or
generosity of length of hypalon you made the yoke of.

Of course, with a folding kayak, you do have another choice in portaging:
disassemble the boat and carry it in smaller loads in its carrying bags.
You can also use the bags for carrying other gear when you get all the boat
parts to the other end of the portage.  You can also do what Jon Watermann
did in his Arctic crossing (latest Sea Kayaker has a chapter from Jon's
upcoming book).  He had a single Klepper.  At various points he had to
portage over great distances.  Sometimes he would drag the whole boat behind
him.  But other times he disassembled the boat and used the skin as a
toboggan that he pulled behind him with his normal gear on it.  On his back
he carried a good deal of the frame in the long Klepper bag.

I often wonder why anyone would want to buy a kayak that cannot fold down
and be stuck with a one piece boat that takes up storage space and is
generally limited in its paddleable waters range to places you can drive to
with it on the roof.  :-)

ralph diaz
--
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Ralph Diaz . . . Folding Kayaker newsletter
PO Box 0754, New York, NY 10024
Tel: 212-724-5069; E-mail: rdiaz_at_ix.netcom.com
"Where's your sea kayak?"----"It's in the bag."
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