I use an electric carving knife. The serrated blades will make quick work of any foam cutting job. Ron *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - Any opinions or suggestions expressed here are solely those of the writer(s). You must assume the entire responsibility for reliance upon them. All postings copyright the author. Submissions: PaddleWise_at_PaddleWise.net Subscriptions: PaddleWise-request_at_PaddleWise.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
Ron, they are not bad. I bought one at the Goodwill store for doing upholstery. Thought it may be dull when I tried it on the minicell so I bought a new one. Didn't work much faster. I found these really cheap serrated knives at the dollar store that are thicker and coarser than good quality breadknives- halfway in between that and a hacksaw blade that make a very quick work of foam. This is not a real factor though unless you are working on a few boats during a workshop, so I am sure the electric carving knife does just fine. It definitely does a nicer cut. BTW, since we are talking about tools for cutting foam + I have a pretty much fully functional shop, I use a bands with a 6-8 tpi skip tooth blade for the most efficient and nicest edge cut of sheet foam. This is especially useful when cutting out foam bulkheads (which I am personally fond of). I use a high speed 14" stationary sander for pre dragonskin carving and contouring, better know where your knuckles are. I don't take these with me for workshops though have considered it. Ron and Barb wrote: > > I use an electric carving knife. The serrated blades will make quick work of > any foam cutting job. > > Ron > > -- ¤ Gabriel L Romeu ¤ http://studiofurniture.com + /diary or + /paint *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - Any opinions or suggestions expressed here are solely those of the writer(s). You must assume the entire responsibility for reliance upon them. All postings copyright the author. Submissions: PaddleWise_at_PaddleWise.net Subscriptions: PaddleWise-request_at_PaddleWise.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
> BTW, since we are talking about tools for cutting foam + I have a pretty > much fully functional shop, <snip list of tools> > Wow, Gabriel - I'm jealous. Having carved entire seats and a number of thigh braces, I find that a hand saw (rip for fast cuts, and crosscut for a smoother edge) works fine for straight or gradual radius cuts on wide pieces. If the profile is traced on opposite edges of the foam block, it's pretty easy to keep the cut from wandering. Concur that a serrated knife works great on thinner pieces for tighter curves. For contouring after the rough shaping, I've been using a 4 inch low angle grinder with a 60 grit medium (careful!!!), and finishing with 60 grit paper by hand. After all the shaping, the minicell surface is still a little fuzzy, and a quick once-over with a propane torch melts the fuzz into a smooth finish. Erik (who recently bought some dragon skin for the next project) *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - Any opinions or suggestions expressed here are solely those of the writer(s). You must assume the entire responsibility for reliance upon them. All postings copyright the author. Submissions: PaddleWise_at_PaddleWise.net Subscriptions: PaddleWise-request_at_PaddleWise.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
Erik Sprenne wrote: > > > BTW, since we are talking about tools for cutting foam + I have > a pretty > > much fully functional shop, <snip list of tools> > > > > Wow, Gabriel - I'm jealous. my lathe was born near you in South Bend. > > Having carved entire seats and a number of thigh braces, I find > that a hand saw (rip for fast cuts, and crosscut for a smoother > edge) works fine for straight or gradual radius cuts on wide > pieces. If the profile is traced on opposite edges of the foam > block, it's pretty easy to keep the cut from wandering. Concur > that a serrated knife works great on thinner pieces for tighter > curves. I would never admit this in front of Doug, the woodworking safety tool zealot, but I often use profiles as you describe to carve minicell on the bandsaw. Interestingly, my last trip o the emergency room for stitches was doing exactly that carving a hand out of wood. > > For contouring after the rough shaping, I've been using a 4 inch > low angle grinder with a 60 grit medium (careful!!!), and > finishing with 60 grit paper by hand. After all the shaping, the > minicell surface is still a little fuzzy, and a quick once-over > with a propane torch melts the fuzz into a smooth finish. I like the angle grinder idea as well. Seems there is a lot of different things to try that has been suggested on the list. Next is figuring how to upholster all these ideas with red vinyl and white piping.... -- Gabriel L Romeu http://studiofurniture.com furniture, mixed media http://members.xoom.com/gabrielR a daily observation, photograph ± text http://studiofurniture.com/paint paintings, etchings, photographs and objects *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - Any opinions or suggestions expressed here are solely those of the writer(s). You must assume the entire responsibility for reliance upon them. All postings copyright the author. Submissions: PaddleWise_at_PaddleWise.net Subscriptions: PaddleWise-request_at_PaddleWise.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
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