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From: Peter A. Chopelas <pac_at_premier1.net> subject: [Paddlewise] paddle sizing heresy Date: Fri, 11 May 2001 11:16:05 -0700 · This archive was generated by hypermail 2.4.0 : Thu Aug 21 2025 - 16:33:22 PDT

It strikes me that what you folks have been complaining about would go away 
with a proper "native" style paddle (and the proper technique to use it).

You modern "Euro" style paddlers are the heretics:  thousands of years by 
the real experts, the ones who required performance as a matter of 
survival, have proven that the short, thin bladed paddles are superior for 
long distance sea kayaking.

I commend everyone to make, borrow or buy a properly designed Aleut or 
Greenland style paddle and go learn how to use it.  They are superior in 
every way: easier to roll, easier to store, more efficient to paddle, less 
strain on your joints, lower "swing" weight, less effect in the wind, etc. 
etc.

These types of paddles tend to be shorter, usually in the 200 to 210 cm 
length, depending on paddler size (note however that native kayaks tend to 
be in the 18 to 22 inch width range, much narrower than typical commercial 
kayaks).

Two words of warning, you must use proper technique with this paddle.  If 
you attempt to use the poor technique that the "Euro" style paddles require 
you will be disappointed.  Proper native technique is not difficult, just 
different, in fact most find it much more 'natural'- you know you are doing 
correctly when it 'feels' right.  That is smooth, quiet, and totally 
natural body movements with much less effort for the same amount of forward 
speed.

The other warning is that most of the commercially available "native" 
paddles are not native designs at all, but rather an incompetent schizoid 
mixture of "native" and modern features, including all the plastic or 
fiberglass ones.  Unfortunately the firms that make them either do not 
realize this and are influenced by the modern designs, or are simply trying 
to market something that does not look too different from the "Euro" style 
so it will sell.  But I have read that none of these "bastardized" designs 
work as well with native techniques as the true native designs.

There are numerous locations on the internet with free plans and detailed 
descriptions on making your own native paddle.  All it takes is a 
reasonably clear 2x4 of some light weight wood (red cedar, spruce, etc.) 
and a few simple wood working tools.

I am no expert, but after making and using a "native" paddle, I will not 
tolerate the poor feel and performance of a modern design any more.

Peter Chopelas

PS:  The idea of "slippage" in a paddle as it move thorough the water is a 
totally incorrect understanding of fluid mechanics (of which I am an expert 
in).  Only an ignoramus idiot would use such terminology: when "pushing" 
against a fluid you have to have the fluid moving (or accelerating) in 
order to get any force out of it--this is how airplanes, pumps, propeller, 
paddles, fans and all other "fluid" machinery works.  You can not have a 
paddle without "slippage", or you would get no forward motion!!  You CAN 
NOT compare fluid mechanics to pushing against solid objects, the forces 
involved are totally different.
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