RE: [Paddlewise] Bad advice on paddle float rescue

From: Matt Broze <mkayaks_at_oz.net>
Date: Thu, 14 Jun 2001 22:58:51 -0700
Rick - Poquoson, VA wrote:

>>>>>>I can see that with an electric, or foot operated pump.  How about
with a
hand held pump?    With my current set-up, the only way I can pump water out
is by not fully attaching the spray-skirt.

Do I have a bad set-up, or am I missing a trick or something?<<<<<<<

You should be able to get the pump down the front of your spraydeck where it
goes around your waist and pump out from between your legs.

>>>>>>While I'm at it, I've had a problem with getting my legs tangled in my
paddle-leash.  I was told it's because I'm coming out backwards????  When
upside down, I reach forward to release the skirt, then hold the sides of
the coming, and do somewhat of a sumersault forward until my legs have
cleared the cockpit.  From that point, I just sort of move to the side of
the boat and pop up to the surface.  Is that incorrect? <<<<<<<

Seems good to me, I don't see how that would automatically tangle you with
your paddle leash. Perhaps your paddle leash is too long. I like to use
3/16" shock cord for a paddle leash because it can be only a few feet long
and still stretch enough during those few times I might need it to be
longer. When high bracing or rolling I never notice it but, the shock cord
must have stretched to accommodate those moves. I also like that the shock
cord and clip are inexpensive and lightweight so it doesn't clack on my deck
with every stroke like the phone cord ones and those with metal fittings
tend to do. Phone cord type leashes also seem to have that annoying phone
cord habit of entangling with itself and suddenly shortening the stretch
range or be excessively heavy surfboard leash style. Regular non-stretchy
cord needs to be nearly 5 feet long to accommodate rolls and high braces and
often seems to get untucked from the storage place needed for its excess
length and dragging in the water if not getting tangled with paddle park
cleats and such.

Rex Roberton wrote:
>>>>>>If you are talking about a wind on open water then I'm not following
you
unless you are talking about a huge storm.  If I'm swimming with my kayak,
no matter how I'm holding onto it, the wind is not going to roll me and my
boat.  I've paddled in winds 40 knots with gusts to over 50 knots and the
wind did not roll me so how do you figure my boat would get rolled, and roll
me while I'm swimming next to it?  You must be talking about large breaking
waves which is bringing us to the question of the limits of when a outrigger
self rescue is possible.  Maybe we could get Matt Broze to address this.
Are you out there Matt?<<<<<<<

Yes contrary to what Doug Lloyd would have everyone believing I've been here
all along. I see no need to comment as Rex is doing such an admirable job of
saying just what I would have said (in his whole post not just the part I
quoted). I agree with Doug on this as well.

PeterO wrote:
>>>>>>>G' Day Self Rescue Enthusiasts,
                I've practised the paddlefloat reentry fairly regularly and
sometimes find myself letting go of the boat and relying on the paddle being
tethered to the boat. This worries me - it doesn't seem a good enough
tether. Is there a case here for using a personal tether? After all one is
unlikely to do a paddlefloat reentry in the surf where a tether might be
dangerous?<<<<<<<<

There are several ways to hold the paddle firmly to the kayak but it is so
critical that you don't loose the kayak in the wind I would employ several
of them and then still try to keep hold of the kayak at all times as well.
Ways to increase the security of the paddle kayak connection: 1) push the
blade under the lines beyond the deck and turn it 90 degrees to key it so it
can't pull out, 2) employ a system that fastens the paddle firmly to the
deck (several ways are possible--we have small hooks on the spare paddle
holding shock cord that can be lifted over the paddle and hooked to itself
making a small loop around the shaft), 3) lift the shock cord or line up and
put it outside of the drip ring of the paddle so the drip ring stops it from
easily being pulling back out until you again lift the cord to the other
side of the drip ring when you are ready to disengage, 4) hook the paddle
leash to a rear deck line so even if the paddle is pulled out it will still
be leashed, 5) hook the shock cord leash on your paddlefloat to the boat
before blowing up the float or fitting it to the paddle (it should be long
enough to stretch so the paddle can still be fastened to the back deck or
slipped under the deck lines once the float is on the paddle (note: some
systems don't work well if you put the float on first--experiment in waves
with your paddle fastening system)

PeterO finished up with:
>>>>>Several skilled sea kayakers advised that if one exits a boat due to a
blown
roll not to repeat it but use the paddlefloat assisted reentry and roll
instead. And I found this much simpler and faster than learning the
conventional paddlefloat rescue. I wonder if it might be easier even for
people who don't know how to roll.
                Please note my opinions are those of a novice kayaker - so
I'm really asking for comment  not intending to give advice!<<<<<<<<

Rick asked about how to pump out through the spraydeck. One of the main
problems of the reentry and roll is that not only do you need to know how to
roll but you are not stabilized once in the kayak and back upright (so that
you can put the spraydeck back on and pump out as you can under most
conditions as you can with the fixed outrigger paddlefloat rescue). Of
course, if your kayak is equipped with an electric pump you only have to get
the spraydeck reattached (usually a two handed job) and then brace a lot
waiting for the electric pump to finish its job (unless you have also packed
the inside of the cockpit sides all with foam so the water can't slosh so
far over to the side to help your kayaks flooded stability).

Matt Broze
http://www.marinerkayaks.com



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Received on Thu Jun 14 2001 - 23:07:03 PDT

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