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From: James Tibensky <jimtibensky_at_hotmail.com>
subject: [Paddlewise] Lights
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2001 13:53:31 -0500
Ellis asked  What types of bodies of water do and do not Coast Guard rules 
apply?

Please, Ellis, consider that the better question might be "What do I need in 
the way of lights to be safe?"  And then ask what the law requires.  My own 
experience on Lake Michigan in Chicago is that the minimum requirements of 
the law, including Coast Guard, will not keep you safe.

Jim Tibensky




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From: Merlin Emrys <memrys_at_telecomreseller.com>
subject: Re: [Paddlewise] Lights
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2001 13:26:30 -0600
OK, so what might keep one safe?

Thanks...

merlin

At 01:53 PM 10/21/2001 James Tibensky wrote:
>Ellis asked  What types of bodies of water do and do not Coast Guard rules 
>apply?
>
>Please, Ellis, consider that the better question might be "What do I need 
>in the way of lights to be safe?"  And then ask what the law requires.  My 
>own experience on Lake Michigan in Chicago is that the minimum 
>requirements of the law, including Coast Guard, will not keep you safe.
>
>Jim Tibensky

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From: ralph diaz <rdiaz_at_ix.netcom.com>
subject: Re: [Paddlewise] Lights
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2001 19:20:27 -0400
From: "Merlin Emrys" <memrys_at_telecomreseller.com>

> OK, so what might keep one safe?
>
> Thanks...
>
> merlin
>
> At 01:53 PM 10/21/2001 James Tibensky wrote:
> >Ellis asked  What types of bodies of water do and do not Coast Guard
rules
> >apply?
> >
> >Please, Ellis, consider that the better question might be "What do I need
> >in the way of lights to be safe?"  And then ask what the law requires.
My
> >own experience on Lake Michigan in Chicago is that the minimum
> >requirements of the law, including Coast Guard, will not keep you safe.

You might want to start with the report below, which is self-explanatory and
is the test that we did here in NYC Harbor.  Obviously, busy waters are more
demanding of a lighting system than those on a lake.  But even on a lake, if
it is ringed with homes and businesses, you may get confusing light in the
background that will make it harder for you to be seen.

Below is the report.  Apologies to those who saw this back then.

ralph diaz

_______________________________________
LIGHTS TESTING BY HUMAN-POWERED BOATING GROUP (JUNE 2001)

As we were finishing up our testing of a number of flashlight systems that
would make paddlers and rowers most visible in NY Harbor, Jim Wetteroth of
the Downtown Boathouse came up to me and said "The Coast Guard was right all
along."  What he was referring to was the standard lighting requirement for
small vessels such as outboard motor boats, i.e. a red/green combo light at
the bow and an 360 degree white light up on a stem toward the stern.  Jim
went on to say, "The more we look like other boats, the more we will be
recognized as one by other things out there."  And he is right based on what
we were able to see.

The red/green running light concept gets rid of one of the problem facing an
urban paddler at night:  How to avoid his/her white light being lost in the
confusion of bright lights of a city?  The US Coast Guard requirement that
small human-powered vessels have a white light ready to turn on when
approached by oncoming traffic is totally inadequate except on some small
lake somewhere.  Paddlers in the Big Apple know this and have been using
different lighting schemes that have at their base some light that is
steadily on and not meant to be intermittently shined for approaching
traffic.

The task of the Human Powered Boating Group (HPBG) was to size up what
lighting systems seemed to work the best.  Earlier there had been
discussions of having some special color of flashing light set up here in
NYC harbor for use by paddlers.  There were problems with the idea.  Finding
a light color that was distinctive; lots of flashing lights are already
taken and have a special purpose such as a flashing blue one for law
enforcement boats.  Strobe white lights are out since they are, in effect,
emergency beacons for some one in distress possibly in the water already.
Every vessel spotting a strobe is legally and morally obliged to stop what
it is doing and come to the aid of those sending off the strobe distress
signal or to radio an alert to the Coast Guard.  If they don't, the
penalties are severe including loss of captain's license, fines, jail time.
Flashing lights are taken that seriously.  It might be possible to designate
some flashing color for paddlers and agree to this in the harbor, but what
about visitors; would they be confused and come to the aid of a flashing
light?  Or would flashing lights be confused with navigational aid lights
warning of obstacles in the water and along the shore?  Maybe it will happen
some day but the wheels of regulatory change, especially ones that go
against well-known habits and protocols, grind too slowly to wait.

So the HPBG decided to operate within existing parameters and existing light
schemes.  We tested seven different systems or variations of systems last
night.  The systems were on different kayaks operating within the Downtown
Boathouse embayment and its immediate outer edge bordering the river proper.
To check their effectiveness, the kayaks were viewed from the DTBH pier
looking outward to the river and from a small motorboat out on the river
looking back. This allowed us to test them against both city lights and more
open water.  The kayaks moved back and forth (like shooting gallery ducks
:-)) so we could see them from both sides.  They also came at the Pier and
out toward the motorboat to see them from the front and from the back.  As
an added test, the kayaks moved along the dark background of the derelict
Pier 32.  Here are the results:

A) First of all, what DOESN'T work:

1.  Headlamps.  Our finding from both the pier and the motorboat underscores
what the NY Waterways ferry captain advised us about last week from his
viewpoint high up on the bridge of his vessel; "Those miner lamps don't
work.  I can't always see them as the guy's head bobs up and down or he
turns his head.  They aren't steady enough and I just don't really see
 them."  Amen.  Headlamps with a straight focus beam were visible only now
and then.  They may be great for spotting your campsite after a moonlight
cruise out in the wilds but they are not good as navigation lights to make
you visible in city waters.

2. Headlamps with red/green lens.  To my knowledge these don't exist but did
seem a good idea to try.  To test this, Jim Wetteroth tried an experiment of
jury-rigging a red/green light to a headlamp.  It also proved as useless as
a focused white headlamp.  Any movement of the head throws its
port/starboard indications off.  A headlamp would only work in one
configuration explained further down.

3.  Chemsticks or chemlights.  Many paddlers believe these work because they
crack the vial, shake it and it seems to give lots of light.  Another
paddler 50 feet away who has one seems to be visible.  But it is an illusion
brought on by closeness.  At any distance they don't show up at all.  We saw
that on a kayak in the embayment not all that far from the pier.

4.  Anything with AAA battery power.  We didn't test this last night, but
such a lighting system, from past observation, is minimally visible.  More
importantly, AAA flashlights with cones such as from Princeton-Tec, die in a
little over an hour of constant use.  At most consider these as a bare
minimum just-in-case light if you get caught out at the end of the day in
encroaching darkness.  If you have such a light, you may want to upgrade
your just-in-case system now to the AA version for more power and longer
burning time.


B) What DOES seem to work:

The best system seems to be the following:  First, have a red/green light
system on you bow deck in front of you no farther than you can reach to turn
on and off or replace batteries if you have to. Next have a white light with
cone high on your head, connected to a headband or to the back of baseball
cap.  Lastly, have a cone white light behind you on your stern deck, raised
a bit if possible.

This system has a lot of advantages.  It gives you that red/green
configuration that makes you definitely identifiable as a boat to others on
the water.  By having the cone light high on your head, you have a constant
360-degree white light showing.  The cone light on your rear deck sets a
pattern of two white lights in conjunction with the cone light on your head.
The more there is a pattern, whatever it is, of a series of white lights,
the more they stand out.

Some of us, including me, have questioned the use of red/green lights.  Our
concern is based on not wanting to be confused by the captain of a large
vessel with small motorboats that can move a lot faster than paddlers or
rowers.  However, small motorboats are often moving slowly or even in a
trolling mode, i.e. not faster than a kayak.  So, I don't think a large
vessel captain would necessarily expect that a red/green bow light meant
30-knot speed.  And, the benefit of being considered a boat is of utmost
importance to us in the long run.

You can achieve this lighting combination for as little as $50 retail (not
counting batteries) using incandescent bulbs with better versions of this
using LED lights going up to over twice as much as that as an initial cost.
Neither is a lot and anything less won't get you really noticed at night as
a boat.

1.  The less expensive version of this involves the following.

A split red/greens 4 AA light from West Marine that runs $19.99.  Look for
the version to put on inflatables.  It will require some playing around with
it to fit under bungees, possibly creating or buying a plate to put it on;
or just use foam.  It has the advantage of lots of power, brightness, a
degree of waterproofness and it will float.

For the cone lights use either Princeton-Tec models or the Mark III from
Tek-Tite (these cone lights retail for around $13 to $15 each.  For full
effectiveness the Princeton-Tec models require some doctoring.  The normal
cone light powered by 2 AA batteries and sold as the Aqua Flare lacks slots
through which to attach a Velcro or other type strap to secure it to your
headband or hat.  What I have done is to buy the Princeton-Tec Aqua Flash,
which does have those slots, and swapped out the flashing light bulb.  In
contrast, the Tek-Tite Mark III already has the slots for straps, runs on 3
AA batteries for greater brightness and longer burning time.  The cones for
the two brands differ.  The Tek-Tite Mark III is taller and clear with a
white plastic strip inside that reflects the light coming up from the bulb.
The Princeton cones are shorter but broader and translucent.  I think the
edge might be with the Tek-Tite cone as, being taller, it stands up higher.

2.  The more expensive version involves the following:

For the cone lights, put in LED light modules, preferably a 2 or 4 LED light
one.  Such modules cost around $20 but they have the advantage of staying
brighter for longer and having much greater burning time with your batteries
than do incandescent bulbs.  LEDs ordinarily have a disadvantage in that
their beam does not project far, BUT this doesn't matter in a cone light
when all it is doing is lighting the cone up or reflecting across a plastic
strip in the cone.  So there is absolutely no disadvantage of LEDs in cones.

I am not certain if Princeton-Tec has a provision for this but Tek-Tite
does.  You actually buy the basic cone light with either 2 LED or 4 LED.
The models are called Mark III 2 LED ($34.95 suggested retail price) and
Mark III 4 LED ($44.95 suggested price).  The Tek-Tite has an advantage in
that it is based on a 3-cell battery system, the ideal one for LED lights.
In a 2-cell battery system you will get less power out of an LED (a 4-cell
system is too much and you have to have a 3-cell with one dummy cell to
operate a LED).  BTW, the 4 LED is noticeably brighter than the 2 LED.

The only LED green/red system on the market is a product from Tek-Tite
called the Navlite.  It has two Mark III bodies, one with red cone, the
other with a green one placed in a special pouch that has a grommet and
other ways of tying to deck D-rings and bungees.  It sells for $55.95 with a
2 LED bulb in each.  Its advantages over the incandescent West Marine basic
split green/red light are greater waterproofness (really submersible) and
longer battery life and continued brightness as well as being unbreakable
and bulb life measured in the many thousands of hours.  The disadvantage is
the initial cost outlay.


C) Other Lighting Systems and Thoughts:

1. One system that did not have a split green/red light component but that
worked extra well was one we cooked up based on the Princeton-Tec Solo
Headlamp.  We placed a Princeton-Tec cone over the light, giving the paddler
(Jim B., a good sport) a silly Unicorn look.  At the back of the headband we
strapped a Tek-Tite Mark III 4 LED.  Two cone lights so high up on the head
made the setup quite visible.  Plus, it created a pattern of lights that was
constant and being so close together seemed to give them even greater
visibility.  If you can stand having two lights on your head, you will have
a distinct visibility advantage.

2.  Deck lights do help give you more of a distinct profile.  This is
especially true if you can pre-arrange a light at the very end of the bow
and the stern as well as have some on your head or PFD.  Just an added note
here:  If you plan to use a red/green light navigation on the bow deck in
front of you, dispense with a white light way up at the bow end.  It
confuses and diffuses things.

3.  Cheaper lights do show up nicely.  There is a cheap Everready yellow
light that retails for under $10 in places like EMS.  It really doesn't have
a cone but rather a raised glass portion.  These show pretty nicely.  The
problem with them is they are not that well made and can fail.  They also
don't have much burn time.

4.  Anything at the back of your PFD, unless high up on the shoulder, is
very limited in how much it can be seen.  But, again, it is something that
can fool you as you may see another paddler in your group and believe he
would be visible from far away when he isn't.

5.  Deck color helps in being seen.  Lighter colors reflect back deck lights
and even lights on your head to a degree.


D) Sources For Lights:

Princeton-Tec's are ubiquitous although you won't always find the Aqua Flare
or the Aqua Flash, with its better body because of the strap slots.  Try a
dive shop since both lights are big with divers.  A good one, with good
prices, is Leisure-Pro on West 18th St in Manhattan
(http://www.leisure-pro.com).  Leisure-Pro would also be a good source for
the Tek-Tites, although the Mark III LED versions do not appear in the
catalog or website.  Call them and say that Tek-Tite has these other lights
(and the Navlite setup), state the list price and they will likely discount
by a nice percentage.  You can also purchase direct from Tek-Tite at
http://www.tek-tite.com

There is also a possibility of a one-time group purchase directly from
Tek-Tite with a discount.  I am not set up to do this but perhaps someone or
some organization might want to.  Maybe we can do so under the umbrella of
the Human-Powered Boating Group.  Whatever the arrangement, I would like to
see the LEDs available to anyone who wants them and so I hope some shop or
Leisure-Pro starts stocking and fulfilling orders.

E) Thank You's:

 The test was under the auspices of the Human-Powered Boating Group.  We
used the Downtown Boathouse and volunteers.  I would like to thank Jim W.
and Tom for manning the motor boat and make observations from there.  Also
to thank Andrew for helping me on the pier.  Bonnie, from the Manhattan
Kayak Company and co-chair of the HPBG, who acted as field general on the
water.  And to volunteers, Richard, Scott, Harry, Jim and Susan.

Ralph Diaz
Chair, Human-Powered Boating Group
____________________________

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PO Box 0754, New York, NY 10024
Tel: 212-724-5069; E-mail: rdiaz_at_ix.netcom.com
"Where's your sea kayak?"----"It's in the bag."
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