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From: Peter Treby <ptreby_at_ozemail.com.au>
subject: [Paddlewise] Nordkapp into Archipelago
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2001 11:31:51 +1100
Bob wrote:

"Another option is to remove the Nordkapp blades and replace with
Archipelago's. I have done exactly that! Use boiling water to soften up
the epoxy holding the blades and pop in new ones! You can select your
own feather angle. I have also converted a Lendal paddle from a one
piece to two piece. It really quite easy. "

I wish I'd read this a couple of days ago. My Lendal Archipelago blades have
been put on a new shaft after the original shaft splintered like bamboo
lengthwise. The new shaft gradually filled to about one quarter with water,
the water getting in via a hair line crack at the back of the left blade. I
finally got sick of this on Sunday, and drilled a 1/16th hole to drain it. I
had intended to plug this with Sikaflex or epoxy. Might take the whole blade
off to drain it now, and get access for a better repair.
Are paddles generally put together with epoxy glue? I know a local
manufacturer uses hot melt glue, which he says is OK unless you leave the
paddle in the sun in the back of the car! But the hot melt glue makes it
easier to get the blades off and refit, adjust feather angles etc.
Cheers, Peter Treby


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From: Bob Denton <gulfstream_at_flinet.com>
subject: RE: [Paddlewise] Nordkapp into Archipelago
Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2001 21:30:54 -0500
I used hot melt to test a feather angle but it lasted only a few minutes
in the Florida sun. Epoxy is what seems to be generally used for gluing
blades and joint hardware to paddles. Blades don't float so it's nicer
when they are attached to the shaft.

cya

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-paddlewise_at_paddlewise.net
[mailto:owner-paddlewise_at_paddlewise.net] On Behalf Of Peter Treby
Sent: Monday, November 19, 2001 7:32 PM
To: PaddleWise_at_paddlewise.net
Subject: [Paddlewise] Nordkapp into Archipelago


Bob wrote:

"Another option is to remove the Nordkapp blades and replace with
Archipelago's. I have done exactly that! Use boiling water to soften up
the epoxy holding the blades and pop in new ones! You can select your
own feather angle. I have also converted a Lendal paddle from a one
piece to two piece. It really quite easy. "

I wish I'd read this a couple of days ago. My Lendal Archipelago blades
have been put on a new shaft after the original shaft splintered like
bamboo lengthwise. The new shaft gradually filled to about one quarter
with water, the water getting in via a hair line crack at the back of
the left blade. I finally got sick of this on Sunday, and drilled a
1/16th hole to drain it. I had intended to plug this with Sikaflex or
epoxy. Might take the whole blade off to drain it now, and get access
for a better repair. Are paddles generally put together with epoxy glue?
I know a local manufacturer uses hot melt glue, which he says is OK
unless you leave the paddle in the sun in the back of the car! But the
hot melt glue makes it easier to get the blades off and refit, adjust
feather angles etc. Cheers, Peter Treby


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From: Peter Treby <ptreby_at_ozemail.com.au>
subject: [Paddlewise] Nordkapp into Archipelago
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2001 15:40:41 +1100
"Blades don't float so it's nicer when they are attached to the shaft."
Denton's Law?
Nice instance of this recently when a friend was bracing into a wave coming
onto the beach at Point Leo. The spigot and shaft at the bracing blade end
broke, the blade sank, the paddler capsized into the wave, and was able to
glimpse the blade sinking, out of reach. Blade lost. But the good news, the
retailer who sold the paddle offered another paddle without much argument.

Cheers, Peter Treby




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From: Jochen Grikschat <grikschat_at_surfeu.de>
subject: [Paddlewise] Epoxi and hot melt glue on paddles
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2001 07:40:24 +0100
> Use boiling water to soften up
> the epoxy holding the blades and pop in new ones!

> The new shaft gradually filled to about one quarter with water,
> the water getting in via a hair line crack at the back of the left blade.
I
> finally got sick of this on Sunday, and drilled a 1/16th hole to drain it.

> Are paddles generally put together with epoxy glue? I know a local
> manufacturer uses hot melt glue, which he says is OK unless you leave the
> paddle in the sun in the back of the car! But the hot melt glue makes it
> easier to get the blades off and refit, adjust feather angles etc.

Hi folks,
here its my turn.
Epoxi glue isnīt the same on different paddles. And holt melt glue also.
Epoxi glue is normally used on the most paddles, especially where paddles
had to withstand a lot of power in different ways. The Epoxi glue, we use
here is from Weicon and its really hard to remove it by heating. There are
very different qualitys and types of epoxi glue on the market. Our Epoxi
glue had to be really hot, until youīve got a chance to turn the blades in
the shaft, to pull them away. BUT, may or most shafts would be damaged by
these mass of heat! It becames more difficult when the blade was glued
correct, means no hair lines in the glue, and every area is glued and the
blade is fitting the shaft in an optimum way.

Hot melt glue is mostly used on high quality racing paddles like by Bracsa.
Theyīre produced so exactly that holt melt glue is really more than enough,
and with an harder glue (higher fusion point) I never heard from problems
with paddles in the sun etc. BUT, you have to sand it quit intensive so the
holt melt glue yould get a grip!! Many people buying unfixed paddles forget
these and wonder why they got problems.

But holt melt isnīt ideal on touring paddles and such stuff, only on racing
paddles and really high quality stuff. And you canīt use it on every high
quality racing paddle. Lettmann-(racing)-blades are fitted with an alloy
peace between the halfs and there you need epoxi glue because the holt melt
glue got unsolvable problems with alloy!

Maybe Iīve forgotten something to mention, I have to hurry up.
Use good, FAST hardening epoxi glue and sand your shaft correctly, then you
never get problems.

bye
Jochen G.

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