The Eddyline Falcon must be a pretty rare bird (as kayaks go) to not get any tippier when flooded with water. Perhaps that is because it has no stability to begin with so adding water doesn't change anything. This is not just idle speculation on my part. Sea Kayaker magazine's review found that the empty Falcon 16 had no inherent stability. The curve started at zero (like all stability curves do) but then went down from there instead of rising into positive territory first as most stability curves do. I guess maybe I will form this working hypothesis. "The less initial stability a hull has the less the stability will be affected by swamping it." Does anyone have any experiences which would tend to cast doubt on it? BTW in Ken's photos I don't think his shoulder is in an especially vulnerable position since his weight is being transferred pretty much straight down his arm to the paddle shaft. A sudden lifting of the paddlefloat would not lift the shoulder joint out of the socket (as it can in a HIGH brace in the rear quadrant) and his arm is free to bend at the elbow if need be to limit the forces pushing on his shoulder. (Note one reason a LOW brace in surf can be dangerous is that if the arm is forced up and back it is difficult to let go of the paddle with that hand position or bend the arm (without also putting more force rotating the shoulder back). I have a friend who tore his rotator cuff just this way.) For those who are confused by not seeing the original, below is the full text of the note I sent to Ken (but not yet to Paddlewise--that he snipped some and responded to on paddlewise). This is the unsnipped version. Ken wrote: >>>>>>Several weeks ago I started a thread on the paddlefloat rescue which elicited a lot of comment. Rex Roberton took an excellent photo of the homemade float which I've posted on our website. (Thanks Rex!) You can see the photo, and also see a description, with photos, of the method I use to do a 30 second rescue. (And no, that doesn't include pumping--I carry the boatfull of water with me as a reminder to be more careful in the future!) The web address is www.kayakfit.com . Scroll down the menu until you find the link to the Paddlefloat Rescue, and click on it.<<<<<< I saw the pictures and directions on your website of the paddle float rescue. Your technique for the untethered paddle paddlefloat rescue looked good. I think it is a valuable method to learn especially for a surf zone rescue where shore is nearby and you are not going to have to pump out (and want to be able to disassemble the boat and paddle at a moments notice before the breaker hits too). However, I'd suggest you go out on a rough day and do this rescue (in a safe place with onshore wind) before you promote it as the "be all, end all" of paddle float rescues (but then don't even pump out the kayak in calm the pool afterwards--and dismiss that lack of finishing the rescue with the joke above). I think you will find that if you fasten the paddle firmly to the back deck you will get the pumping out process done so much quicker (if you can get the spraydeck on and pump out the now very unstable swamped kayak at all without capsizing again) especially in rough water. Rough water, like the kind that probably would contribute to your capsizing, by accident, in the first place. Fastening the paddle to the deck may take a few more seconds but I'll bet you can make up much of that time by climbing up onto the kayak from in front of the paddle and not having to carefully pivot over the paddle while moving one hand and one foot at a time (to keep it held in position while getting your feet around and back into the cockpit--something BTW that is also a lot easier to do in a calm pool than in rough water). I agree that foam floats can save 40 seconds or more of in the water time compared with an empty inflatable paddle float, but personally, I don't want to have to put up with the bulk of the foam during all the times when I don't need it. Have you made your foam float with a way to just grab it off the deck and roll up with when you capsize and fail to roll (so you won't have to exit the cockpit)? It seems if one is going to have to put up with the bulk anyway you should at least be able to use it to do a float roll and save all that pumping time in compensation. Again because I roll pretty reliably and don't want the bulk I don't usually leave my inflatable paddle float partly inflated and easy to grab (and pull free for a float roll) either, but some folks do. I always could leave it inflated, if I wanted to, (like maybe after having already had to do one paddlefloat rescue and not wanting to have to pump out all that water again). You bet then I'll stuff that partly inflated paddle float under my front bungies and be ready to go for a Float Roll if I miss my roll again anytime soon. Yes, I think the (no paddle) Float Roll is definitely a technique worth learning especially so if you are roll challenged. I also think you should be ready to fasten the paddle firmly to your deck should that be the best option (which I think it usually is, and as folks who try to pump or put their spraydeck back on, while bracing at the same time, soon find out). Everybody: Do you have a tether on your paddle float so it can't float or blow away if you drop it? Ken, do you depend on keeping yours secure under deck lines until it has been secured firmly on the paddle blade (rather than use a tether) or do you use both? Matt Broze http://www.marinerkayaks.com *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - Any opinions or suggestions expressed here are solely those of the writer(s). You must assume the entire responsibility for reliance upon them. All postings copyright the author. Submissions: PaddleWise_at_PaddleWise.net Subscriptions: PaddleWise-request_at_PaddleWise.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************Received on Sat Dec 22 2001 - 17:32:16 PST
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