Re: [Paddlewise] Refinishing Klepper A-II frame

Matt wrote:

>>Can anyone share any tips for refinishing a Klepper A-II frame?
The frame was made in 1957 and some of the original varnish is flaking
off. The frame hasn't been used very much and does not show the black
spots that (I think) come from mildew growing under the varnish.

Good, that means there should not be any rot either since the wood stayed
dry.

>1)  Should I use a chemical stripper, or sandpaper and elbow grease?

Although a stripper is more toxic, it is faster and will not take away any
of the wood substrate.  A less attractive idea is to just wire brush the
loose flaky finish off and recoat over it.  It will seal the exposed wood
where the old finish is not bonded, and the old finish where it is still
bonded will be covered under the new.  But it is only an interim "quick and
dirty" protection for the wood, and will have to be reapplied more
frequently.

I would prefer to take the old finish off.  All finishes break down with
time and putting on all fresh finish will make it last longer.

>2)  Does anyone advocate removal of the fittings?  This seems like it
would really lengthen the job.  Is masking the fittings necessary?
Is there a good idea for masking the fittings besides masking tape?

The finish on the fittings will also protect them from corrosion, no harm is
done in leaving them on and it would seal out moisture better since when
replacing the fittings you will likely scratch off the new finish in places.
the disadvantage is it will be more difficult to remove the fittings later
if necessary for repairs since the fasteners will be sealed up in the
finish.  I would leave them on.  You only need to mask the any moving parts
(latches, slip fittings, etc.).

>3)  Once the old varnish has been removed, is there any treatment that I
should consider before applying the new varnish?

clean clear wood is best for the finish.  I would consider adding the
commercial anti-fungus additives available in paint stores to at least the
first coat of finish (handle carefully because these additives are toxic).

>4)  What type of varnish should I use?  Should I apply with a brush or dip
the wood into the varnish?  How many coats?

Use a linseed oil based outdoor finish and a soft brush to make sure you
fill all the grain.  "Man-o-War" marine finish is a good choice since it
also has UV inhibitors and is not too costly.  I have also used Minwax
"Antique Oil Finish" with excellent results, thought it does not have the UV
inhibitors, which is probably not as much an issue with a kayak unless you
store it outside.

Do not use Polyurethane based finish on a kayak frame since it is brittle
(it is harder and better for table tops and floors), and it will crack and
flake off a kayak frame sooner than oil based finish.  The oil based
finishes will be more durable and actually last longer in this application
since they are softer and more flexible (do not let a salesman tell you
otherwise).  The oil based finish is easier to chemically strip for future
refinishing too, the hard brittle remains of the polyurethane will have to
be ground off, risking taking some of the wood with it.  Also do not use
strait linseed oil as some books recommend.  It works but it is kind of soft
by itself and it will take months until it will not be tacky.

Thin the first coat with about 30% turpentine (and add the anti-fungi
additive) to get good penetration.  wait for complete drying (several days
at least), and add at least two more coats without the thinner to get
adequate protection.  A fourth coat will make it glossy and look nice, but
will also increase the risk of it cracking since the total finish layer will
be thicker.  But it does offer more abrasion protection.

>5)  How long should the job take?

That depend on you of course, but I would expect to take a total time of
about 4 to 6 hours of direct labor on the frame. (You could spend that much
time getting all the materials together and clearing a space to work on it).
Most of that time, about 3+ hours for stripping.  Each successive coat of
finish will go quickly. It should not be necessary to sand between coats if
you do them successively.  If you want it to look real nice you could wait
about a week after the 2nd to last coat (to let the last coat dry good and
hard) and lightly sand before the last coat to smooth the grain, and to take
off any dust or tiny bubbles in the finish. Clean with a tack cloth and put
on the final coat.  I do not bother with this on a kayak frame since
appearance is only secondary for the finish on a kayak.

 I like to hang it the frame from the bow and stern with nails driven into
the end pieces, balanced so I can slowly roll the frame as I coat each set
of stringers (less chance of missing a spot, and it is easier on your
back!).  I tie it off to hold it steady at each position I work on it.  On a
folder you could hang each piece separately.

I have done a number of home-built skin on frame hulls over the last few
years and what I wrote here is what I have learned in the process, both from
others and by trial and error.

Peter

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