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From: Doug Lloyd <dougl_at_islandnet.com>
subject: [Paddlewise] Dumpers
Date: Thu, 09 May 2002 23:15:26 -0700
Peter T asked:

<snip>
<<<<
Now here's a tricky business. I've scanned the latest Sea Kayaker
on-line. There's an article by Jon Turk on expedition tactics, and he
says something about landing in shore dumpers. I think he recommends
against pitch-poling the boat and planting your head in the sand, in
favor of turning into a sharp broach and savage high brace and coming
onto the sand sideways, if I
understand rightly.  What do you reckon?
>>>>

Jon's article isn't too bad at all. It has a club-newsletter casualness
to it that I really enjoyed, as opposed to dryer techno-talk that most
writers attempt. The information was personal-preference oriented,
obviously, but rationalized in a logical, presentable manner.

As far as handling dumping surf, I usually try to avoid anything over
three feet. That sounds small, but three feet is over your head more or
less when you are sitting in a kayak. Here's my ten rules for dumping
surf:

1. Avoid large dumping surf. Listen for the sounds emanating behind the
break, carefully noting the explosive degree of trapped air releasing
and the explosive draw of pebbles/ shoreline texture.

2. If you must land in dumping surf, prior experience reading berm
heights and beach slopes should be able to direct you to the least
dangerous spot along the shoreline. Use the biggest swell and then push
yourself off the seat an few inches at the non-breaking crest, to gain
more perspective of the beach in order to make your decision before
committing to coming in.

3. On a rough beach landing with dumping surf, there may still be the
odd spot with a sandy shallow extending in between rocky prongs. Utilize
the softer landing where possible. This doesn't usually hold true for
dumping surf that has been at it for a while

4. Along any shoreline with some arch to it, there should be a place
where the dumping surf height is diminished. Unfortunately, these
perimeter locations can also be very rocky. Try and find the last area
where rocks do not impede landing. This area will sometimes provide an
angle break to the dumping surf. A spilling-left or spilling-right
semi-dumping breaker is always better than a line of break that dumps in
one single break along the length of the middle beach. Just make sure
you have an adequate run-in zone.

5. Side-surfing dumping surf is possible. You need a strong hull and
proper presentation of the hull. In moderate dumping surf, I sometimes
go for the high brace. This is very dangerous. You have to be sure the
surf is lower than you outstretched offshore paddle blade. With good
balance, the explosion-zone soup will carry you to shore. As the dumper
dispels its energy, you can then bring down a hard slap support on what
water there is left on the seaward side. On smaller dumping surf, it can
be a hard call knowing whether to go for a low-brace or high-brace over
the back of the wave to unbroken water behind the wave.

6. In larger dumping surf, after coming in on the smallest swell you can
pick, you may still be rotated wildly. DON'T try anything fancy with
your paddle. Don't throw your arms out to block a capsize. Just keep
your paddle shaft alongside the kayak, tuck your head on the front deck,
and barrel-role ashore as the sea dictates. Don't fight it. Loosen up,
and go with it. (A little pre-landing whisky might help loosen you
up:-)  ). Also, if you dilly-dally outside the break for an inordinate
amount of time, you will likely stiffen up.

7. Running in on the back of a dumping surf wave isn't an easy endeavor,
no matter what you read elsewhere. You really need to find a safe, soft
beach, and practice to find out what works best with your hull dynamics.
Most paddlers avoid dumping surf so totally, they have no training when
the day comes where avoiding the condition isn't an option. (Most
paddlers avoid any kind of surf).

8. If you do make it in, you may find yourself bailing-out very near the
coming next break. The cockpit will inevitably fill with water and
gravel during the next explosion. It is imperative to stay on the
seaward side, even bailing out on that side on purpose. Some kind of
fast-grab bow painter line is a must. Run up the beach at an angle, away
from the bow as you pull the kayak in.

9. Don't forget your helmet. Q-Tips are also mandatory for sand removal!

10. This is controversial, but I've been know to bail-out just behind
the last break and follow in behind the kayak. Your toggle should have
enough length to allow a rotation or two while still holding on to it,
without being too long so as to present a loop to catch your wrist in.
Swimming-in your kayak in dumping surf is as stressful as it gets in sea
kayaking, but I have done it solo, and the risk versus reward in order
to avoid shoulder dislocation was well worth it too me. In regular surf,
I usually just let the kayak go after a bail out. It makes its way to
shore. Dumping surf presents a whole new level of problems, and a whole
new level of danger. You handle danger with developed skills and
experience.

DL

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