Re: [Paddlewise] Fiberglass jitters- deck and hull upkeep

My damage came from a rock I failed to see. Sure heard it though! That's 
why I will never build a stripper. It would break my heart to have that 
happen and it would of course.

Sculling entry.... the way it was taught to me is simply to use your 
paddle as an outrigger in deeper water ( enough to clear rocks etc.) Your 
paddle will not touch bottom. It provides enough stability if you're 
quick, have a good sense of balance, and can minimally scull in this 
circumstance.  Frankly since I did some additional cockpit work I find it 
difficult to place my legs on either side of a foam deck reinforcement 
quickly and I'm sure I look like a seriously demented spider; but in a 
standard keyhole cockpit it's not bad.

 Now the exit is just a wee bit harder and I still get wetter than I'd 
like. Just reverse the previous entry moves and your set. My problem is 
that I'm usually too tired to do it well and I tend to misjudge the depth. 
I get my butt out OK, but when I throw a leg down it always tends to be 
deeper than I thought and sometimes seriously slippery. 

I sometimes think about doing this in a Klepper. Jump in, jump out. I 
wanted a cool looking Greenland style boat and that what I got. 

Kevin 



At 10:39 AM 8/1/02 -0700, knelson_at_actionpoint.com wrote:
>writes:


A sculling entry and exit?  What's that?

>It really does eliminate a lot of
>cosmetic damage. After grinding a 6 inch scratch in my brand new kevlar
>hull, I was very motivated.

I put a 6 inch scratch on the stern deck within 15 minutes of first launch 

of the mahogany S&G boat I built. Not intentionally, of course, but it 
served as a reminder that I had just spent the last 3 months building a 
boat, not a piece of furniture.  I've had my new cedar strip boat in the 
water for a little over a month and it's quite a few "defects" already, 
mostly paddle scrape marks from rolling it.





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