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From: <jfarrelly5_at_comcast.net>
subject: [Paddlewise] polishing
Date: Sun, 13 Oct 2002 20:48:46 -0400
    I just bought a used whitewater boat.  It has the usual "fuzzy" surface a well loved whitewater kayak gets. I thought it might be fun to try and polish up the surface of the kayak so it looks a bit newer.  Is there any safe way of removing just the fuzz without thinning the hull?  This is far from a priority in my  life but I am going to have hernia surgery in Dec and I will need something not too strenuous to occupy the aquatic portion of my mind while I heal.  Send beer in lieu of flowers.

Jim et al

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From: Michael Daly <michaeldaly_at_rogers.com>
subject: Re: [Paddlewise] polishing
Date: Mon, 14 Oct 2002 21:04:32 -0400
From: <jfarrelly5_at_comcast.net>

>     I just bought a used whitewater boat.  It has the usual "fuzzy" surface 
> a well loved whitewater kayak gets. I thought it might be fun to try and polish 
> up the surface of the kayak so it looks a bit newer.  Is there any safe way of 
> removing just the fuzz without thinning the hull? 

You could try heat to melt the fuzzies (with great care) or a scraper (like a
cabinet scraper).  See if you can find something on ski base repair on the
web or in a library - the techniques are pretty much the same.

Mike

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From: Dan Harrison <DHARRISN_at_hfcc.net>
subject: Re: [Paddlewise] polishing
Date: Tue, 15 Oct 2002 21:07:31 -0400
As another reply suggested, use ski tuning technique.  Rocks and sand
have done to your hull what a ski technician does using a steel brush
and/or sandpaper: created a "hairy" surface that is just the thing for
XC racing skis under certain conditions.  
The way we "shave" a hairy ski usually involves a precision surgical
steel scraper.  However, you can do a pretty good job of getting the
coarser stuff off with a plastic stripping pad. You can get it at a
paint store.  It's normally used in combination with a chemical stripper
like Bix or Strip-eez.  Formby's makes them; I think 3M does too.  It
looks like a Scotchbrite pad on steroids, or very coarse steel wool.  
You can't damage the hull with it, at least not without risking another
hernia ;^)  You might even try clamping it somehow into a palm orbital
sander, since there's so much area to cover.
Good luck with both operations.  Been there, done that, feel much
better now, thanks.
Dan Harrison
------------------------------
>Date: Sun, 13 Oct 2002 20:48:46 -0400
>From: jfarrelly5_at_comcast.net 
>Subject: [Paddlewise] polishing

>    I just bought a used whitewater boat.  It has the usual "fuzzy"
surface a well loved whitewater kayak gets. I thought it might >be fun
to try and polish up the surface of the kayak so it looks a bit newer. 
Is there any safe way of removing just the fuzz >without thinning the
hull?  This is far from a priority in my  life but I am going to have
hernia surgery in Dec and I will need >something not too strenuous to
occupy the aquatic portion of my mind while I heal.  Send beer in lieu
of flowers.

>Jim et al


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From: Shawn Baker <shawnkayak_at_yahoo.com>
subject: Re: [Paddlewise] polishing
Date: Wed, 16 Oct 2002 14:12:11 -0700 (PDT)
jfarrelly5_at_comcast.net wrote:
>I thought it might be fun to try and polish up the surface of the
kayak >so it looks a bit newer.  Is there any safe way of removing just
the >fuzz without thinning the hull?  

Not that I'm recommending anyone try this (proceed at your own risk),
but I had pretty good success using 120 grit sandpaper to smooth off
all the fuzzies.  Even more risque, I wet-sanded with a 120 grit in my
Random Orbital Sander to keep the paper from clogging.  Hosed the boat
so it was wet, shut the hose off, and sanded.  I did have the sander
connected to a GFCI breaker...but the sander itself never got wet.

Then, the big fuzzies were gone, and the boat was smooth, but now
"micro-fuzzy".  I hit it with a propane torch, and it melted all the
baby fuzzies and made things pretty smooth.  A heat gun would be more
consistent.  Keep the torch or heat gun moving.  Don't apply heat to
any area for a very long time, or you could deform the boat.  You just
want to melt the surface fuzzies--ideally, the thickness of the plastic
won't even get warm.

It seemed like a good idea at the time.  It did work, though.

Michael Daly mentioned a cabinet scraper.  I didn't have one at the
time, but I think that would work great!  Smoother, safer, probably
faster.

Shawn


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